Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Engine / Drive Train

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #311  
Old 07-29-2013, 03:59 PM
93Prostar190's Avatar
93Prostar190 93Prostar190 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Boat: 2008 Prostar 214, MCX, Mini-Tower
Location: Central OH
Posts: 1,337
when we used a 2044 ... we got 60 psi at the rail ... probably due to the regulator ... our first 2044 lost pressure when the pump shut off ... the 2nd pump we tried help pressure better.

I suspect that the internal hose connections are very important, as is how well the pump is mated to the bottom area where it sits .... if that connection is tighter it may prevent "leak down" I don't know for sure .... but it feels that way to me ... I also believe that the 2044 has an internal check valve? (I have not ever torn a 2044 apart) so I don't know what role that would have after the power is stopped in holding pressure.
__________________
Keep a tight line, and a smile on your face. Peace out.
2008 Prostar 214 MCX
Previous 93 Prostar 190 1.5:1 GT40

"Left Foot Forward and preferring girls."
Reply With Quote
  #312  
Old 07-29-2013, 06:34 PM
DoubleE's Avatar
DoubleE DoubleE is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Boat: 2006 MasterCraft X2
Location: Shakopee, Minnesota
Posts: 20
Just had my 2006 X2 MCX engine die as I was coasting into the lift last Friday. It wouldn't fire back up, so swam her in and the weekend was shot. She had died 2x before a couple weeks back; once at idle, the other at about 5 mph, but both times she fired right back up. Then we went several hours without issue.

Here are the facts I've gathered up:
- Don't hear the same high pitched wine I've been used to after a key turn, but I do "feel" movement in the regulator upon key turn and during attempts to start
- Hit the shrader (sp?) value and nothing but a small puff of air came out.
- Took off the air filter, gently pushed open the flap and sprayed in carb cleaner in for a couple seconds and she fired right up for a second, thus I knew it wasn't an ignition issue but a fuel issue

Based the above I'm assuming its the pump. Then I called the local dealer to find out it $5-600 for the part alone and they "hope" for stock in 2-3 weeks! Not cool.

So after trying to put together my plan B, I have the following questions after reading several forum threads:
1. I found a Carter CBG 98-002-3 and 71-342S on eBay for $270, but I'd have to have it shipped and it is sold as. Concerned I get a lemon and don't want to wait, thoughts?
2. I see several part #s used on the MCX, like the cost, and the fact that I can get it now, which one do I need?
  • a. E2044
  • b. E2065
  • (the above 2 are from autozone, what is the difference, both are rated with a max 90-100 psi, isn't that too high?)
  • c. Napa P74118 (60 PSI)
  • d. AC Delco EP 356
3. Do I need to replace the big gasket?
4. Filter as well?

PS. Why is the air filter SO hard to take off, there has to be an easier way?
Reply With Quote
  #313  
Old 07-29-2013, 07:19 PM
BMDWillyZ's Avatar
BMDWillyZ BMDWillyZ is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Boat: 2000 Mastercraft Prostar 195, LTR 330 hp
Location: Gang Mills, NY
Posts: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleE View Post
Just had my 2006 X2 MCX engine die as I was coasting into the lift last Friday. It wouldn't fire back up, so swam her in and the weekend was shot. She had died 2x before a couple weeks back; once at idle, the other at about 5 mph, but both times she fired right back up. Then we went several hours without issue.

Here are the facts I've gathered up:
- Don't hear the same high pitched wine I've been used to after a key turn, but I do "feel" movement in the regulator upon key turn and during attempts to start
- Hit the shrader (sp?) value and nothing but a small puff of air came out.
- Took off the air filter, gently pushed open the flap and sprayed in carb cleaner in for a couple seconds and she fired right up for a second, thus I knew it wasn't an ignition issue but a fuel issue

Based the above I'm assuming its the pump. Then I called the local dealer to find out it $5-600 for the part alone and they "hope" for stock in 2-3 weeks! Not cool.

So after trying to put together my plan B, I have the following questions after reading several forum threads:
1. I found a Carter CBG 98-002-3 and 71-342S on eBay for $270, but I'd have to have it shipped and it is sold as. Concerned I get a lemon and don't want to wait, thoughts?
2. I see several part #s used on the MCX, like the cost, and the fact that I can get it now, which one do I need?
  • a. E2044
  • b. E2065
  • (the above 2 are from autozone, what is the difference, both are rated with a max 90-100 psi, isn't that too high?)
  • c. Napa P74118 (60 PSI)
  • d. AC Delco EP 356
3. Do I need to replace the big gasket?
4. Filter as well?

PS. Why is the air filter SO hard to take off, there has to be an easier way?
Have you tried wiggling the connector to the fuel pump? I had the same issue and it was one of the wires to the fuel pump connector. I have a 2000 prostar 195 and the wires to the fuel pump are cramped in the back of the boat. I found that one of the wires had broken inside its jacket because of the bend in the wire and the years of it bending from driving the boat thru choppy water.
I did buy a back up fuel pump to rebuild it if the pump craps out. So far so good.
Reply With Quote
  #314  
Old 07-29-2013, 07:46 PM
bturner2's Avatar
bturner2 bturner2 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Boat: Maristar 200VRS w/ X2 Package, 2007, 310HP
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 2,142
I used the Delco for my 07 RTP. Should be the sane one for your MCX. I've read that the NAPA is just as good and you should be able to get it locally within a day.
Reply With Quote
  #315  
Old 07-29-2013, 07:50 PM
ttu's Avatar
ttu ttu is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 2007 X2
Location: tulsa
Posts: 3,392
Quote:
Originally Posted by bturner2 View Post
I used the Delco for my 07 RTP. Should be the sane one for your MCX. I've read that the NAPA is just as good and you should be able to get it locally within a day.
do you know which model you used? I have a complete fuel pump assy with of course the dead pump and would like to rebuild to have a back up for when the newer one my mc dealer installed fails!
Reply With Quote
  #316  
Old 07-29-2013, 09:14 PM
DoubleE's Avatar
DoubleE DoubleE is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Boat: 2006 MasterCraft X2
Location: Shakopee, Minnesota
Posts: 20
I did pull the connector and reinstalled it twice, just to make sure. But because I'm getting some vibration when the key is turned I'm thinking all electrical is good?

Just called a couple local shops and found the Airtex E2044 for $70, the Napa P74118 for $90, can't find the AC Deloco EP356 anywhere. I've found out the regulator should do just that and regulate the psi down to 60 or whatever, so I'm assuming they all would work? Knowing someone else put the Airtex E2044 in my exact 2006 MCX and I can get it tomorrow, leans me toward it.

Do I bother trying to replace the filter and gasket? I wouldn't hesitate, but they are about 1 hour drive away.

How about the clamp(s) on the hose attached to the pump, never used one like that before? Are they 1 time use? Do I need a special tool?

Anything else special I need before I head to lake to change it out?
Reply With Quote
  #317  
Old 07-29-2013, 10:50 PM
Hrkdrivr's Avatar
Hrkdrivr Hrkdrivr is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Boat: MasterCraft X-45, 2006, L18, slate gray/white
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 686
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleE View Post
Do I bother trying to replace the filter and gasket? I wouldn't hesitate, but they are about 1 hour drive away.
If you have a new filter/gasket, use them, but if all you have for now is the old ones and if they're clean I would go ahead and use them.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleE View Post
How about the clamp(s) on the hose attached to the pump, never used one like that before? Are they 1 time use? Do I need a special tool?

Anything else special I need before I head to lake to change it out?
I disconnected the batteries before I messed with the pump.

Those clamps are one-time use, at least they were when I got done with them! I jammed a screwdriver into the loop to loosen it up. Be careful not to bung up the hose. Also, I would only disconnect the end connected to the pump and leave the end connected to the regulator alone. Go to the auto parts store and get a stainless hose clamp for the new pump connection.

I would also bring something like a piece of aluminum to cover the hole in the gas tank while you're working on the module..it's a big hole begging for stuff to fall in and for fumes to get out. I used a 5 gallon bucket to lift the module out of the boat. When you pull it out of the tank it will probably have a half gallon of gas in it. Putting it into the bucket allowed me to get it out of the boat without spilling gas all over the inside.
__________________
2006 X-45, L18, slate gray/white
Reply With Quote
  #318  
Old 07-29-2013, 11:26 PM
BrushyCreekXS's Avatar
BrushyCreekXS BrushyCreekXS is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Boat: MC 2006 XSTAR, MCX VRS 350HP
Location: Southeast - Smith Lake
Posts: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleE View Post
I did pull the connector and reinstalled it twice, just to make sure. But because I'm getting some vibration when the key is turned I'm thinking all electrical is good?

Just called a couple local shops and found the Airtex E2044 for $70, the Napa P74118 for $90, can't find the AC Deloco EP356 anywhere. I've found out the regulator should do just that and regulate the psi down to 60 or whatever, so I'm assuming they all would work? Knowing someone else put the Airtex E2044 in my exact 2006 MCX and I can get it tomorrow, leans me toward it.

Do I bother trying to replace the filter and gasket? I wouldn't hesitate, but they are about 1 hour drive away.

How about the clamp(s) on the hose attached to the pump, never used one like that before? Are they 1 time use? Do I need a special tool?

Anything else special I need before I head to lake to change it out?
Yes, I would replace the gasket and filter. I carefully removed the clamp off the old pump an used one of the clamps that came with the new pump. Read the many posts above for details...like don't forget the disconnect tool for the fuel line.
Reply With Quote
  #319  
Old 07-29-2013, 11:55 PM
Skyskiguy Skyskiguy is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2012
Boat: 2006 X30
Location: Utah
Posts: 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyskiguy View Post
Replaced mine ('06 X30) with the 2044 a couple weeks ago and I am seeing the same issue with hard starting after sitting a while - don't know what the pressure is as I have not checked it, but first time off the trailer and after sitting for lunch it is hard to start. It fires right up after changing skiers.
???
Update:
I went to O'Reilly and rented a pressure gauge ($117, fully refundable if returned within 48 hrs.). Pressure at the rail is right on at 58 PSI at "key on" but then IMMEDIATELY starts dropping - fast. Only thing I can figure is a bad hose connection at either the pump or the regulator. Weird thing is that I didn't even monkey with the original clamp at the regulator and I actually installed two clamps at the pump barb because I had read where some people had trouble due to a bad connection there. Maybe I damaged the hose without noticing?
Could it be a problem with the pump? I'm assuming the pumps must have a built in "check valve" which would maintain the pressure after powering off? I have a "cadaver" hose out of a dead pump module I got from the local MC dealer but didn't use it because mine turned out to be the flexible, corrugated type already - although it is black and the "cadaver" hose is the white/clear variety I have seen in the newer modules and in this thread. Should I swap out the hose for the white/clear one? Was a reliable source ever found for the flexible, corrugated hoses? Thanks for the input.

And thanks to all those "pioneers" who have gone before to figure out all the details of this pump replacement. Had it not been for them and this thread, I would have had a spoiled five day trip to Lake Powell - camping 40 miles from the marina. Fortunately I was prepared with my pump replacement kit in the glove box! You should have seen the look on my Tige' buddy's face when I got back to camp (being towed by a Four Winns) and told him my fuel pump was shot - and even better was when I told him it was no big deal because I had a spare! "You carry a spare fuel pump?" "Of course! - Don't you?"
Reply With Quote
  #320  
Old 07-30-2013, 07:21 AM
JerryW's Avatar
JerryW JerryW is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 2002 X-9; LQ9
Location: Southeast
Posts: 82
There was a source for the corrugated fuel hose mentioned in another post in one of the fuel pump threads - http://autoperformanceengineering.co....html#flexhose. Here is a link to another source also. http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...Fuel-Hose.aspx
__________________
"Horsepower is a terrible thing to waste"
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:26 PM.