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Old 08-29-2015, 05:35 PM
brian1vt brian1vt is offline
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99 XSTAR cranks but will not start

330 LTR Engine cranks but will not start. Initially thought it was the fuel pump. I rebuilt the in-tank fuel pump with the air tex 2044 fuel pump. I can hear the new pump prime when the key is turned. There is fuel pressure at the rail. The safety lanyard was just replaced and all the gauges come on when the key is turned. Any thoughts on what else could be the issue? Fuel Pump Relay? Sensor? Or ignition module? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 08-29-2015, 06:04 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is online now
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Have you checked to see if you have spark?
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  #3  
Old 08-29-2015, 07:21 PM
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osmonet osmonet is offline
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have you searched the site? This one seems on point.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=25568
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  #4  
Old 08-29-2015, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian1vt View Post
330 LTR Engine cranks but will not start. Initially thought it was the fuel pump. I rebuilt the in-tank fuel pump with the air tex 2044 fuel pump. I can hear the new pump prime when the key is turned. There is fuel pressure at the rail. The safety lanyard was just replaced and all the gauges come on when the key is turned. Any thoughts on what else could be the issue? Fuel Pump Relay? Sensor? Or ignition module? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Open the throttle a bit and crank it- if it starts, check the ECT (coolant temperature sensor).
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:46 PM
brian1vt brian1vt is offline
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No spark.
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Old 08-29-2015, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian1vt View Post
No spark.
Look for the threads about crank position sensors.
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  #7  
Old 08-29-2015, 10:56 PM
Wkbrder Wkbrder is offline
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Boat: 1994 Prostar 205, EFI Indmar 350
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I just had my 330 LTR rebuilt for my 2000 prostar 205V. Long story short, motor was blown after oil drain hose got pinched in the rudder. Drained my oil unknowingly. Put the motor back in, had fuel at the rail, but no spark and no pulse to the injectors. Replaced both crank position sensors, still no dice. Took to dealer and they diagnosed as a weak starter after 5 hours of labor. New starter did the trick. So they say that the Northstar ignition system needs 4,000 cranking RPM's in order to send spark and fuel. Haven't had any issues since. Hope this helps!
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Old 08-29-2015, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Wkbrder View Post
I just had my 330 LTR rebuilt for my 2000 prostar 205V. Long story short, motor was blown after oil drain hose got pinched in the rudder. Drained my oil unknowingly. Put the motor back in, had fuel at the rail, but no spark and no pulse to the injectors. Replaced both crank position sensors, still no dice. Took to dealer and they diagnosed as a weak starter after 5 hours of labor. New starter did the trick. So they say that the Northstar ignition system needs 4,000 cranking RPM's in order to send spark and fuel. Haven't had any issues since. Hope this helps!
It needs 4000 RPM? Bullcrap! (and you can tell them it's bullcrap) The ECM is programmed to consider <300RPM as Crank Mode and >300RPM as Run Mode. In Crank Mode, the TPS determines fuel delivery and in Run Mode, the MAP sensor is in charge, with input from the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor and the TPS for acceleration enrichment & deceleration enleanment.

If the starter caused a problem, it may have drawn so much current that the ECM saw battery voltage that was too low for it to operate the systems but there's no gas engine in a boat that cranks, or needs to crank, at 4000RPM.
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Old 08-30-2015, 09:29 AM
Wkbrder Wkbrder is offline
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It took them 5 hours to diagnose the problem. The only other thing they did was realign the crank position sensors. Said there was plenty of voltage from the battery. Very bizarre to me as well, seeing how the old starter was never an issue before I had the engine out. I was just happy to be back on the water without an ECM OR ICM issue after 3 weeks. Maybe the misspoke with 4,000 instead of 400 but I know what he told me. It's been a month now without any issues.
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  #10  
Old 08-30-2015, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Wkbrder View Post
It took them 5 hours to diagnose the problem. The only other thing they did was realign the crank position sensors. Said there was plenty of voltage from the battery. Very bizarre to me as well, seeing how the old starter was never an issue before I had the engine out. I was just happy to be back on the water without an ECM OR ICM issue after 3 weeks. Maybe the misspoke with 4,000 instead of 400 but I know what he told me. It's been a month now without any issues.
Changing more than one thing makes it impossible to be certain about what they determined as the cause. If they weren't looking at the voltage on the return from the crank position sensors before (when it didn't fire) and while they adjusted them, they can't know.

I'd like to know why they replaced the starter if it was working before. When the engine was replaced- do you know if the mating surface for the starter was cleaned of paint and oil? That's where the starter makes its ground connection and if it has paint between the starter and engine block, it won't receive the voltage it needs and when that happens, it will overheat and die. It's the same reason starters die when an engine is cranked to the point of killing the battery.

Glad to see it's working.
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