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Old 05-12-2015, 11:20 AM
SKIBUMM SKIBUMM is offline
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No More Fake Lake

I was doing some maintenance last night and noticed how bad the inlet hose was of my strainer to my water pump. I was just going to replace it but it was such a pain in the but to get off I decided it was time to put in the flush system. My hose was 14 inches long and had a 90 degree bend so this is what I did. I do have a couple of questions at the end.

I took a 1' ball valve removed the handle and made sure that would fit onto the strainer. and 1 inch was the ticket. I added to that an elbow then a short 2 inch piece of pipe just enough to add a T then another short piece of pipe to attach the now 4 1/2 inch piece of hose into the water pump. With the valve and the elbow that hose was all but directly aligned with the inlet on the back of the water pump. I plugged the t for now and water tested in and no leaks and the boat ran off a fake lake(soon to be history) just fine.

Questions I have are as follows. The valve is tightened as tight as I could get it as I needed the handle in a certain position. It is about 1/4 turn from super snug like the rest of it is. I am guessing that is not and issue seeing as I saw no leaks but what are peoples thoughts on this?

Second question is off of the tee I will have another valve and a garden hose fitting. What I am wanting to fo is attach a piece of hose as close to the tee as possible and put a valve in the hose and run it up toward the front of my engine and up. I am not sure if that is enough or if I should plumb in a hard line with valve and hose bib?
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Old 05-13-2015, 03:47 PM
Endurance Endurance is online now
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I'm not sure I am reading your post right, but it sounds like the plan is to put a Tee in your water intake line between your through-hull fitting and your raw water pump to allow you to attach a garden hose to supply cooling water to your raw water pump when you run your boat out of the water.

If that's the plan, there might be a concern. It sounds like you would put a ball valve between the Tee and your through-hull to keep water from running out of your through-hull when you put water to the garden hose. The problem with that plan is that this could subject your boat's cooling system to the full pressure of your garden hose. It is pretty common to have 60 psi in your garden hose. Car cooling systems are generally in the 8 to 12 psi range and lake water boat cooling systems have even less than that because water goes out your exhaust manifolds rather than building any pressure above about a half a psi.

It is possible that you could just crack your hose valve open a bit so that the water going out your manifolds would keep your boat's cooling system from building any pressure. But you also run the risk that someone not as smart as you cranks up the hose volume so that it gives more water than can run out your manifolds. At that point, it has no choice but to start building pressure in your cooling system right up to hose pressure.

Again, I might be misreading your post. But I would be careful with anything that could put 60 psi into your cooling system.
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Old 05-13-2015, 04:26 PM
SKIBUMM SKIBUMM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endurance View Post
I'm not sure I am reading your post right, but it sounds like the plan is to put a Tee in your water intake line between your through-hull fitting and your raw water pump to allow you to attach a garden hose to supply cooling water to your raw water pump when you run your boat out of the water.

If that's the plan, there might be a concern. It sounds like you would put a ball valve between the Tee and your through-hull to keep water from running out of your through-hull when you put water to the garden hose. The problem with that plan is that this could subject your boat's cooling system to the full pressure of your garden hose. It is pretty common to have 60 psi in your garden hose. Car cooling systems are generally in the 8 to 12 psi range and lake water boat cooling systems have even less than that because water goes out your exhaust manifolds rather than building any pressure above about a half a psi.

It is possible that you could just crack your hose valve open a bit so that the water going out your manifolds would keep your boat's cooling system from building any pressure. But you also run the risk that someone not as smart as you cranks up the hose volume so that it gives more water than can run out your manifolds. At that point, it has no choice but to start building pressure in your cooling system right up to hose pressure.

Again, I might be misreading your post. But I would be careful with anything that could put 60 psi into your cooling system.
Yes that is the plan. I have a shut off valve between the lake intake strainer and the tee. You are correct in the PSI and you start with the valve just cracked until the boat starts then you can open it up. It will lose PSI as it hits the expanse of the other hoses etc. I have all of that in including the tee (which currently is capped off. I want to now put the hose inlet on. The thing I am wondering is because this is under my engine and getting a hose there would be damn near impossible can I attach hose to the tee and take it to a more easily accessed location? I can see no reason why that would not work but thought I would ask the experience of the forum before going ahead with that. I have tested what is in now and it works fine on the fake lake.
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Old 05-13-2015, 05:10 PM
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tph tph is offline
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Flush System

Here is my setup. It has a garden hose fitting but I submerge a short section of hose into a full 5 gal. pail and let the pump draw the water into the engine.
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Old 05-13-2015, 05:15 PM
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CruisinGA CruisinGA is online now
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Because of the bypass through the manifolds and out the exhaust the engine will not be subjected to the full pressure of the garden hose. Also, the raw water pump should be a good flow restriction if the water source is trying to flow faster than the pump is pushing. It may still be greater than the typical 12-13 lbs but I doubt you will have a problem.
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Old 05-13-2015, 05:16 PM
SKIBUMM SKIBUMM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tph View Post
Here is my setup. It has a garden hose fitting but I submerge a short section of hose into a full 5 gal. pail and let the pump draw the water into the engine.
That would be where I would like mine to end up ultimately, and I would also most likely use the 5 gallon bucket with a hose in the bucket. The difference in mine and yours is that your pump looks to be flywheel driven and sits in the back. Mine is pulley driven and sits under the front of the engine with the intake right in the middle of the engine. So currently my hose bib fitting would be right on the underside edge of the oil pan. Yours looks like it has no valve at the hose bib connection. Do you simply cap off your hose bib connection with a make fitting?
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Old 05-13-2015, 05:32 PM
Black Hills MC Black Hills MC is offline
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This is what my setup looks like. The tee is just after the transmission cooler. Between cooler and raw water pump.
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Old 05-13-2015, 05:52 PM
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CheeseSteak1 CheeseSteak1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Hills MC View Post
This is what my setup looks like. The tee is just after the transmission cooler. Between cooler and raw water pump.
Do you have issues with water taking the path of least resistance (out the thru-hull) vs feeding the pump? I could not get the pump to suck water from a bucket or with a direct hose hook up. With the hose the water just shot out the bottom and with the bucket nothing happened. I put a ball valve between the tee and thru-hull and it worked out.
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Old 05-13-2015, 06:00 PM
Black Hills MC Black Hills MC is offline
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No have not had any issues.
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Old 05-13-2015, 06:24 PM
SKIBUMM SKIBUMM is offline
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Black I like that set up but doing that on mine could leave my impeller running dry which will burn it up. I am putting water in right before the seawater pump on mine which is on the front of the engine underneath.
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