Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Ballast

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-29-2008, 05:52 PM
Roonie's's Avatar
Roonie's Roonie's is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Boat: 2007 MC X2, RTP-1 5.7L 310 HP 1.5:1, 14.25 x 14.5 XMP OJ Prop, bimini, depth finder, and table, teak platform, White/viper red
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,601
07 X2 Fly high ballast install

I did the quick and easy version of how to install the custom fly high ballast rear sacs and the integrated bow sack. The Fly High ballast added a total of #1525 pounds +. The rear are #400+ each and the bow is #725+. So total ballast now with factory and Fly High kits is #2363+ (Factory is 225# each for port and starboard and 388# for KGB).

It was really easy install and took an hour and half probably to complete from start to finish. Use a hair dryer to heat the tubing to fit on the connectors or it is near impossible to get them on. I used all quick disconnect from Fly High so I can easily take the system out if needed and for winterization.

Also I re-programmed my ballast timers which I will include at the end.

Parts list for the rear;
2 custom X2 fly high rear sacs
2 90 degree angle 1" threaded one side and other side to accept 1" hose
2 straight quick disconnect fitting from Fly high with nipple inserts for the bags
2 90 degree quick disconnect fittings from Fly High with nipple inserts for the bags
6 1" stainless hose clamps
2 3' sections of 1" hose

Parts list for the bow;
1 Fly high integrated bow sac (comes with nipple plug for third hole in sac)
1 90 degree angle 1" threaded 1 side and other side to accept 1" hose
2 straight quick disconnect fittings from fly high with nipple inserts for the bags
3 1" stainless hose clamps
1 5' section of 1" hose

Locate the rear overflow hose coming off the ballast tanks which can be found underneath the rear seats shown in pic.


Unscrew clamp and take off hose. Next take out the existing black straight fitting with a wrench.

Last edited by Roonie's; 07-30-2008 at 08:58 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-29-2008, 05:56 PM
Roonie's's Avatar
Roonie's Roonie's is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Boat: 2007 MC X2, RTP-1 5.7L 310 HP 1.5:1, 14.25 x 14.5 XMP OJ Prop, bimini, depth finder, and table, teak platform, White/viper red
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,601
Next screw in the 90 degree angle and use teflon tape. and add the new piece of hose onto it with clamp.


Then hook the new piece of hose onto the bottom inlet in the fly high sac as it will now serve as the filler and the old overflow tube then gets a quick connect put on it and serves as the new overflow for the whole system.



Push the bag back into the rear compartment and make sure lines are straight and not kinked and that is it for the rear ballast install........ As I said I did the super easy install way as some have done much more elaborate installs.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-29-2008, 06:00 PM
Sodar's Avatar
Sodar Sodar is online now
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Boat: '07 ProStar 197 w/ MCX
Location: Seal Beach, CA
Posts: 11,018


Might be better off going back to the straight barbed fitting, rather than the 90... hose looks a little kinked.

Looks clean and easy though!
__________________
-Cameron
2007 ProStar 197
1996 ProStar 190
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-29-2008, 06:01 PM
Roonie's's Avatar
Roonie's Roonie's is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Boat: 2007 MC X2, RTP-1 5.7L 310 HP 1.5:1, 14.25 x 14.5 XMP OJ Prop, bimini, depth finder, and table, teak platform, White/viper red
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,601
The integrated bow sack is a little more involved but still fairly eay to do. First locate the overflow off the KGB found in the pic below.


Unscrew clamp and disconnect overflow hose. This hose will be pulled through the instrument panel and serve as the overflow for the bow ballast. I took out the straight black fitting going to the ballast tank and replaced it with a 90 as my new hose fit right over it without effort and I wanted a snug fit. Here is the same view with the new 90 and hose attached.

Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-29-2008, 06:03 PM
Roonie's's Avatar
Roonie's Roonie's is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Boat: 2007 MC X2, RTP-1 5.7L 310 HP 1.5:1, 14.25 x 14.5 XMP OJ Prop, bimini, depth finder, and table, teak platform, White/viper red
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,601
Next you have to push the hose underneath the gap into the storage compartment under the dash.



And install the bow ballast and quick disconnects and hook up the supply line to it.

Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-29-2008, 06:06 PM
Roonie's's Avatar
Roonie's Roonie's is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Boat: 2007 MC X2, RTP-1 5.7L 310 HP 1.5:1, 14.25 x 14.5 XMP OJ Prop, bimini, depth finder, and table, teak platform, White/viper red
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,601
On the other side you can now pull the overflow hose through into the compartment under the drivers dash. The hardest part here is getting out the access panel. I left the length on it so I can switch it back to regular ballast if I need to take out the fly high. Hook the quick disconnects up and install on bag.



Put the access panel back and it will clear the hose at the bottom no problem.

That is it for the install. Now for the re-programming of the timers..........
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-29-2008, 06:08 PM
Roonie's's Avatar
Roonie's Roonie's is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Boat: 2007 MC X2, RTP-1 5.7L 310 HP 1.5:1, 14.25 x 14.5 XMP OJ Prop, bimini, depth finder, and table, teak platform, White/viper red
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,601
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sodar View Post

Might be better off going back to the straight barbed fitting, rather than the 90... hose looks a little kinked.

Looks clean and easy though!

It is kinked because the bag is pushed forward into the seat compartment to do all the connections. Once connections done you push bag back into rear compartment and kinks go away.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-29-2008, 06:24 PM
Roonie's's Avatar
Roonie's Roonie's is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Boat: 2007 MC X2, RTP-1 5.7L 310 HP 1.5:1, 14.25 x 14.5 XMP OJ Prop, bimini, depth finder, and table, teak platform, White/viper red
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,601
Fill-drain time set up (reprogramming the pump)

disconnect all batteries from main boat connections for at least 30 seconds. Disconnect plug between pump and active Intelligence box until prgramming is complete. Reconnect power from battery and immediately start toggling switch to enter program mode.

Push toggle to the fill position and toggle between fill and drain 5 times stopping in the off position each time (fill-off-drain-off-fill-off, etc). Do not rush. This should be done in a slow methodical 1 second at each postion pace. Unit will blink when you have entered program mode and the number of blinks will indicate the current fill time in 30 second intervals. The lowest default time is 2 minutes. Therefore 1 blink = 2 minutes, 2 blinks = 2 min 30 sec, 3 blinks = 3 min, etc.

To increase fill time - toggle between off and the fill position, each toggle increases the fill time by 30 seconds up to 6 minutes maximum.

To decrease fill time - toggle between off and drain position, each toggle decreases by 30 seconds.

Increments are 30 seconds (approx. 3.5 gallons per toggle) with minimum fill time of 2 minutes and maximum of 6 minutes. Also the pumps fill at approx 10 GPM.

Reconnect power to pump and run pump in drain cycle until pump stops automatically. This must be done to reset unit timer to zero after programming.

Last edited by Roonie's; 07-30-2008 at 08:57 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-29-2008, 09:28 PM
ttu's Avatar
ttu ttu is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 2007 X2 towed by a 2012 Touareg TDI
Location: tulsa
Posts: 3,693
roonie, very nice setup.

when are you going to be down my way so we can get this done in under a hour.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-29-2008, 09:42 PM
TheOneandOnly TheOneandOnly is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Boat: Mastercraft X2, 2008, 350
Location: MN
Posts: 504
Roonie you should have used the 90 degree high fly inserts for the top of the back bags they work awesome while removing strain from the overflow inlet vs using the straight.

Another note make sure the hose going to the KGB isnt piched by the side wall, I have herd of MC having some issues with a few KGB tanks exploding from a pinched hose (they will not warranty which is common sense but if it happened it wouldnt be able to be replaced without removing the deck, better safe than sorry). There is a kick panel right around the area held down by 4 screws, we removed it and routed out a half moon with a jijsaw worked perfect and will not allow pinching to occur.

Congrads-how do you like it? The wake for surfing is killer with one bag filled and trim plate set to 53% we noticed.

Last edited by TheOneandOnly; 07-29-2008 at 09:50 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
fly high, x2 ballast

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:18 PM.