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  #21  
Old 07-25-2008, 04:04 PM
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wakeX2wake wakeX2wake is offline
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Boat: 2007 mastercraft x2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sodar View Post
. After 2 cleats I had to stop because my legs were so tired from puckering my butt together!
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA good stuff... i know what you mean though... i had a buddy watching me drill for my LED interiors and i told him to not watch and i would holla at him when i got done... he laughed and asked if i was for real then i let him know i was... as soon as he walked in the door i sat down in the boat and started crying a bit... i was going at the interior fiber glass w/ a saw bit in reverse over a prexisting hole... ie the starter bit had nothing to drill into making that thing jump like crazy... luckily the light unit covered it all up... i went to bed as soon as i got done w/ them at 7:30 i was so drained
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  #22  
Old 09-07-2008, 12:18 AM
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dwe dwe is offline
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I'm also using 2 750 lb fat sacs in my 197 w/ mini tower; 21 mph, and 65'. I didn't want to drill permanent pumps for movable sacs, so I'm using 2 tsunami pumps to fill them. Together, they take 5-10 minutes to fill.

My question for Seaworld and Sodar, is where are you placing them? I started out w/ one sac where the rear bench is, and ended up going to 2 sacs on the sides. My problem w/ the wake is that I can't get it to crest very much. It's a good bit bigger, but has a gentle roll to it. One of the wakeshops suggested I try and shift weight to the rear to get more of a crest, or add a third sac in the rear, which I don't really want to do. Any suggestions for getting a more peaky wake?

Thanks!
David
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  #23  
Old 09-07-2008, 10:25 PM
Seaworld Seaworld is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft prostar 197, LY6, 40th edition
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I run the sacs all the way in the back on each side of the engine box. I also have 150 lbs of lead in the back for easy balancing.
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  #24  
Old 09-08-2008, 08:14 AM
Ben Ben is offline
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Boat: '94 PS205 LT1
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Originally Posted by Seaworld View Post
The hoses run to the back and around where the rear seat speakers are mounted. It is pretty tight to fish them by the gas tank but they will go. I use flex PVC. It will not get crimped. I prefer no vents. If you vent the bag you can never get it totally full. You should not need to burp the bag. Before filling just turn the pumps on drain for a few seconds and it will suck the air out like a vacuum. We use two of the 750 Fly high sacs W707 down each side, and if you want to surf one in the back and one down the side. If you are running an 2008 boat there will be issues with the fuel vent, but there is a way to fix it. I also have rear vent covers made for surfing. Otherwise water will flood your vents and fill the bilge. I do also recommend using a shut of valve close to the bag. It will prevent the slight siphoning action that can sometimes happen when you ride.
So to make sure I'm clear, you only drill one hole per pump? Water goes in/out the same hole? Thus "draining" the bag involves the pump working to push the water back to 1-2 feet below the surface? Or do you have a check valve system with a drain hole on the side of the boat, above water level?

If only one hole, I like your idea a lot better. I would just need to have easy access to drain the lines during spring / late fall boating...

Last edited by Ben; 09-08-2008 at 08:17 AM.
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  #25  
Old 09-08-2008, 06:16 PM
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jpattigr jpattigr is offline
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Plumbing Ideas

After reading this thread, I was wondering if you could not put a T on the water inlet for the impeller and feed the pumps that way? As long as the engine was running then you could also drain the water though the cooling system?
This may be a dumb idea but it also would save drilling more holes in the bottom of my boat!
Any thoughts on this Idea??
Or drill one new intake though the hull and feed the pumps with a larger diameter feeder line and use a Y split to feed the 2 pumps? Would this work??
This tread has me thinking as I hate the my current pumps and Bags etc and this built in idea is very clean! Good Job!
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  #26  
Old 09-08-2008, 08:06 PM
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OhioX14 OhioX14 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
So to make sure I'm clear, you only drill one hole per pump? Water goes in/out the same hole? Thus "draining" the bag involves the pump working to push the water back to 1-2 feet below the surface? Or do you have a check valve system with a drain hole on the side of the boat, above water level?

If only one hole, I like your idea a lot better. I would just need to have easy access to drain the lines during spring / late fall boating...
If I'm not mistaken that's how the factory ballast works as well. The only thing above the waterline on my boat are the vents. The fill and drain are both on the bottom.
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  #27  
Old 11-28-2013, 12:44 AM
pgw pgw is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Boat: Mastercraft x7 2008 LY6
Location: Victoria
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Hi all,

I have a 2008 X7 with LY6 and my kids are looking for a bigger wake. I was thinking of going with 2 x 750 fat sacs each side of the engine box in addition to the standard bag under the rear seat. Wakemakers have suggested that I could go with 2 x 1100 fat sacs, what are peoples thoughts on this? Seems like a lot of weight but I guess they don't need to be filled completely.

Regards

Paul
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  #28  
Old 11-28-2013, 02:18 PM
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93Prostar190 93Prostar190 is offline
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Boat: 2008 Prostar 214, MCX, Mini-Tower
Location: Central OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
So to make sure I'm clear, you only drill one hole per pump? Water goes in/out the same hole? Thus "draining" the bag involves the pump working to push the water back to 1-2 feet below the surface? Or do you have a check valve system with a drain hole on the side of the boat, above water level?

If only one hole, I like your idea a lot better. I would just need to have easy access to drain the lines during spring / late fall boating...
That is why some boats are better of draining while plowing, the moving water helps to pull the water exiting the drain hole and the higher engine rpms work the pump at a better current from the boat electrical system.
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