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  #51  
Old 07-23-2008, 01:24 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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I would carry the part of the bracket that came off into the shop and ask the guy who worked on it if he had seen it in the bilge. I don't remember working on a boat and not looking under the motor with a light. There's always something to see down there. I don't know how he'll respond, but I would ask. If he isn't familiar with this kind of motor/drive system and he has been working on it in the past, I have to say that it's not a very conscientious way to do things. If he has replaced the impeller before, he should have noticed the bracket in place and if he had looked under the motor, he should have seen the bolt that holds the bracket to the bottom of the pump. It would be hard to miss, since it's usually not painted.
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  #52  
Old 07-23-2008, 01:29 PM
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That's not the same bracket. If you call a MC dealer, or MC directly, you can get a part number and photo.
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  #53  
Old 07-23-2008, 01:40 PM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
That's not the same bracket. If you call a MC dealer, or MC directly, you can get a part number and photo.

Yeh. Probably right. That bracket is listed for the pump that goes on the 350's. Likely the LT-1 requires a different configuration as it probably bolts to the block differently. Indmar or MC dealer would have to get the correct bracket.
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  #54  
Old 07-23-2008, 01:50 PM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post

To remove the raw water pump shaft, you'll need to remove the belt by using a wrench and socket on the pulley's center bolt, turning it clockwise as you face the front of the motor. The pulley will swing out from the belt and the belt can be slid out, then the tension is slowly released (it's a pretty strong spring, so be careful). Replace the pump and belt, attach the bracket and hoses, fire it up.
Do you have to actually remove the crankshaft pulley to get that flange and shaft off? I defer to your expertise, but I was under the impression that the three hex-head socket bolts could just be removed, thereby removing the flange without having to remove the pulley...
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  #55  
Old 07-23-2008, 02:28 PM
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IIRC, the pulley bolts onto the balancer (if it has one). I would remove the belt before the pump, in case it wants to come off and gall the threads, etc.
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  #56  
Old 07-26-2008, 06:37 PM
gerberpollack gerberpollack is offline
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How much should the water pump vibrate? The new pump seems to vibrate (move) a few millimeters. This is significantly greater than I expected.

What are the chances the fly wheel is not aligned correctly? Are there other things areas I should examine to isolate the cause of the vibration? I'm concerned that the old water pump and bracket busted because of the vibration.

Any advice would be appreciated.
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  #57  
Old 07-26-2008, 07:09 PM
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If the raw water pump vibrates, it needs to be centered better. Loosen the three machine screws enough that you can't easily shift the flange, but you could if you pried with little effort. Start the motor and watch the crank pulley- if it's true when it turns, you don't need to worry about that part (it wouldn't be the flywheel). The pump may center itself while it runs. If it does, shut it off and tighten the screws. The holes are big enough that it will allow you to center it. It should also have a fourth hole that fits over a locating pin. Make sure that is in the right position.
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  #58  
Old 07-27-2008, 05:19 PM
gerberpollack gerberpollack is offline
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So, I've reinstalled the water pump in hopes of reducing the vibration / movement. Even after attaching the bracket to the pump with a washer and screw the pump still vibrated. The vibration does not appear to be coming from the flywheel as it seems centered / aligned (looking at the wheel sideways when the engine is running.

The pump is working properly as evidenced by the engine maintaining a water temperature of < 175. I let the boat idle for 20 minutes in the water without any issues. I'm just worried about running the boat at high RPM with the water pump vibrating.

Any thoughts on other ways to address the problem? I attempted to loosen it per your instructions, but the vibration did not stop.
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  #59  
Old 07-27-2008, 06:33 PM
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Does it vibrate the way it would if it was off-center (what I thought you meant) or does it look like the axis of the pump wobbles? If it wobbles, it sounds like something is bent.

The part you call a flywheel- is that the thick part behind the pump and pulley? Does it look like that's wobbling, or the center of the pulley is bent/off-center? That's a problem and can damage the crank/main bearings.

That vibration is what broke the other bracket.
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  #60  
Old 07-27-2008, 06:42 PM
gerberpollack gerberpollack is offline
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the flywheel is the thick part behind the mounting circle for the water pump. it appears to be straight = no wobbling / undulations when viewed from the side. The best way to describe the action of the pump is moving (more than vibrating). I'm not sure of the direction, up/down or side/side, but it appears to be consistent. The L bracket moves with the water pump.

I'm going to check out a buddy's 98 mastercraft sometime this week. I want to see if the water pump on his engine moves like mine. If not, then we know something is wrong.


What are the next steps in evaluating what is causing the movement?
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