Go Back   TeamTalk > General MasterCraft Topics > General Discussion

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #41  
Old 07-22-2008, 09:16 PM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
MC Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Boat: Gone
Location: Gone
Posts: 22,134
Quote:
Originally Posted by gerberpollack View Post
I'll send photos of the mounting tomorrow morning. Here are photos of the bad water pump.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3900645...7606303890014/

We understand the raw waterpump is history by previously posted pictures. It's the front of the engine in the area of the crankshaft pulley, with the raw waterpump shaft and base plate in the crankshaft pulley, that will help tell the story!
As long as this has gone on, you've still apparently got more time to spend. Call 1-803-345-0996, (Skidim, Discount Inboard Marine), ask for Vince, Richard or Karen, get them to rush you a catalogue ASAP.
On page 43 is a blow up drawing of a Chevrolet engine, upper left hand corner, Water Pump and Related Parts and you will see the L bracket, rubber isolator, bolts and the pump with related parts that should be similar to yours.
Bottom line, it appears you need a new pump that comes with a impeller installed, and the L bracket for a LT1, rubber isolator and related bolts and washers. If Skidim doesn't have or can't get the L bracket and related parts, you can always contact
http://www.indmar.com/ and see if they have a replacement in stock and can sell it to you. You may even want to try your MC dealer for the parts too.
__________________
Charter Member Number 1

Quote: 2RLAKE,
At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.




Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 07-22-2008, 10:10 PM
bigmac bigmac is offline
MC Platinum
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 2004 Maristar 230 VRS
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 8,115
Yeh, I'm baffled. No L bracket, nothing bolted to the crankshaft pulley. Pretty bizarre.
__________________
'04 MariStar 230VRS/MCX

Last edited by bigmac; 07-22-2008 at 10:29 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 07-22-2008, 11:18 PM
JimN's Avatar
JimN JimN is online now
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,466
I think it's time to call the previous owner and ask WTH happened to the bracket and who removed it. If they did, they should eat the repair costs. If their dealer did, they need to go out of business. If the bracket broke and the part that normally attaches to the pump is still in the bilge, the place that did the UBI needs to do something else.

One thing I will say, and it's not to any one boat owner but it is something that has always bothered me when I work on someone's car or boat-


TAKE THE STUFF OUT OF YOUR BOAT BEFORE IT GOES IN FOR SERVICE UNLESS IT NEEDS TO BE USED FOR THE SERVICE WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The boat will be in a service department, where dirt, oil and grease will usually be on the floor or other surfaces. The dealer or shop shouldn't be expected to have space for all of the stuff I have seen in boats and when the job takes more time than you expected, part of the overage is from them having to remove the stuff, put in a safe place, retrieve and stuff it back in, in a way that won't make the boat owner call back and complain that they can't find anything. If something comes back with dirt, oil or grease on it, don't gripe to the shop. That stuff takes up a lot of room and when they have ten other boats that are chock full of stuff, they won't be able to find your boat, any tools, parts or the door.
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 07-23-2008, 11:41 AM
gerberpollack gerberpollack is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Boat: maristar 1998
Location: northwest
Posts: 20
Drum roll please.....

I took photos of the engine this morning.

1. Looks like the L bracket sheared off the motor mount. The rust on the fracture point indicates this happened at least 2 weeks ago.
2. The attachment point of the water pump doesn't look like the photo of the new one. There appear to be holes for the bolts, but no bolts. Although the three protrusions may be bolts I have not seen before.
3. The last owner said he had the shop summerize the boat.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3900645...7606303890014/

Let me know how this affects your thoughts on the problem.
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old 07-23-2008, 11:51 AM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
MC Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Boat: Gone
Location: Gone
Posts: 22,134
Just as we suspected!
The L bracket broke causing the pump to gyrate on the pump shaft bolted in the crankshaft pulley and destroyed it'self internally and came off the pump shaft after the seals and bearings eat themselves. Have the bracket welded back together, mount it, unbolt the useless shaft and pump shaft base from the crankshaft pulley and install a new complete raw waterpump as previously pictured, hook the hoses back up and run the boat in the water or with a source of water in the driveway.

The ball is now in your court and I'm moving on, Good Luck!
__________________
Charter Member Number 1

Quote: 2RLAKE,
At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.




Reply With Quote
  #46  
Old 07-23-2008, 01:03 PM
bigmac bigmac is offline
MC Platinum
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 2004 Maristar 230 VRS
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 8,115
I believe this is the L-bracket that you want, but call SkiDIM to be sure

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RK090177A

__________________
'04 MariStar 230VRS/MCX
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old 07-23-2008, 01:07 PM
gerberpollack gerberpollack is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Boat: maristar 1998
Location: northwest
Posts: 20
Should the UBI have caught this issue? The rust on the break point indicates it happened a while ago. This is frustrating...

Andy
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 07-23-2008, 01:10 PM
bigmac bigmac is offline
MC Platinum
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 2004 Maristar 230 VRS
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 8,115
Quote:
Originally Posted by gerberpollack View Post
Drum roll please.....

I took photos of the engine this morning.

1. Looks like the L bracket sheared off the motor mount. The rust on the fracture point indicates this happened at least 2 weeks ago.
2. The attachment point of the water pump doesn't look like the photo of the new one. There appear to be holes for the bolts, but no bolts. Although the three protrusions may be bolts I have not seen before.
3. The last owner said he had the shop summerize the boat.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3900645...7606303890014/

Let me know how this affects your thoughts on the problem.
Yes, that's it exactly. The L-bracket broke, the pump destabilized, wobbled and fried the seal, in turn fried the bearing, the pump body slid forward off the shaft. The new pictures CLEARly show that the pump flange and the attached pump shaft are still attached to the crankshaft pulley by the three bolts. If you look at the shaft, you see, at the end, the specific splines where the rubber impeller would normally slide over.

Again, you need a new raw water pump as in my original post in this thread. You also need a new L-bracket. It's about a 2-beer job and you'll be back on the water better than new.



It might be theoretically possible to rebuild the raw water pump from the parts you already have - buying a new bearing and a new seal. IMHO, it will be simpler and more reliable to just buy a brand new pump.


.
__________________
'04 MariStar 230VRS/MCX
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old 07-23-2008, 01:14 PM
bigmac bigmac is offline
MC Platinum
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 2004 Maristar 230 VRS
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 8,115
Quote:
Originally Posted by gerberpollack View Post
Should the UBI have caught this issue? The rust on the break point indicates it happened a while ago. This is frustrating...

Andy
I don't know. Probably. The L-bracket isn't easy to see, especially in a V-drive. Nevertheless, you could make the case that the leak that they DID see should have tipped them off to the possibility that the mounting of the pump was problematic somehow. Depends on how far you want to push and and how much you want to risk pissing them off. If they will end up being your boat mechanic in the future, it might be more facilitating to sit down with them, explain nicely and reasonably that they didn't give you your money's worth on the UBI and see if they will cut you some slack on the parts/labor necessary to get the boat back on the water.
__________________
'04 MariStar 230VRS/MCX
Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old 07-23-2008, 01:19 PM
JimN's Avatar
JimN JimN is online now
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 11,466
I would buy a new bracket. It's not that expensive and there will be less messing around. The three "protrusions" with a six-sided hole are machine screws, which use an Allen wrench to remove. Common tool , available at literally any hardware store, unless they're out of stock.

In this photo, there's a smooth pullet that provides tension for the belt, located between you and the crank pulley. http://www.flickr.com/photos/3900645...7606303890014/

If you're replacing the pump yourself:

To remove the raw water pump shaft, you'll need to remove the belt by using a wrench and socket on the pulley's center bolt, turning it clockwise as you face the front of the motor. The pulley will swing out from the belt and the belt can be slid out, then the tension is slowly released (it's a pretty strong spring, so be careful). Replace the pump and belt, attach the bracket and hoses, fire it up.

Personally, I think the shop that winterized it should have been more thorough. If they had noted any issues, they could have repaired it immediately, which would have been better for you AND them. THe missing bracket should have definitely been noticed when the UBI was done. Even saying, "Hmmm, what is this bracket for?" would have been better than saying nothing.

If you will be running the boat on the trailer, I would recommend not using the Fake A Lake. Your hull is on a steeper angle than a ProStar or other flatter bottom boat and because of this, it's less likely to stay in place. Buy a shut-off valve for a garden hose, a piece of hose that fits onto the oil cooler (metal part with two smaller hoses going to the transmission, inline with the supply hose for the raw water pump) and a couple of hose clamps. The oil cooler is something you should get used to seeing- some water has a lot of weeds and "stuff" floating in it and the oil cooler can become clogged. If you remove the supply hose and use a small inspection mirror (also sold at all hardware stores), you can shine a light in and see if it has anything blocking the flow. If it clogs while you're under way, it will overheat. I recommend checking it every time you go out. If you have the right tools, it takes a few minutes and is infinitely better than an overheat. Over time, you'll also become faster and it'll be less of a pain. I use stainless hemostat (forceps) that I bought at Radio Shack to reach in and grab the weeds/stuff.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
impeller, overheating, water pump

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:53 AM.