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Old 04-21-2005, 01:37 AM
DAinAZ DAinAZ is offline
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Boat: 1992 Prostar 190
Location: Mid-Atlantic
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Carburetor Opinions Needed

I have a 1992 Prostar 190 that is stock, as far as I know. It ran last year a couple times, but hasn't been run since last summer. A year ago I had the carb adjusted, but the guy said I would probably need a new carb within a year. The below pictures are of my carb as of today. You can see it has a lot of corrosion/oxidation on it.

Here are my options:
1. Buy a new carb and replace it
2. Try to find a used carb and replace it.
3. Find a place to "rebuild" it
4. Try a rebuild kit myself (I've never done it but have some mechanical ability.)
5. ??
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Old 04-21-2005, 01:41 AM
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erkoehler erkoehler is offline
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There are alot of different threads on carbs right now, read up on some of them first.

Also, how about some pics of the whole boat?
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Old 04-21-2005, 04:51 AM
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H20skeefreek H20skeefreek is offline
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It does look pretty nasty, but I don't see why it couldn't be cleaned up, but what do I know, my boat has been down off and on since December because of carb issues.

do you boat in Saltwater? I wouldn't imagine so in Arizona. why is it so corroded?
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Old 04-21-2005, 06:18 AM
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jsonova99 jsonova99 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAinAZ
I have a 1992 Prostar 190 that is stock, as far as I know. It ran last year a couple times, but hasn't been run since last summer. A year ago I had the carb adjusted, but the guy said I would probably need a new carb within a year. The below pictures are of my carb as of today. You can see it has a lot of corrosion/oxidation on it.

Here are my options:
1. Buy a new carb and replace it
2. Try to find a used carb and replace it.
3. Find a place to "rebuild" it
4. Try a rebuild kit myself (I've never done it but have some mechanical ability.)
5. ??
If you have the slightest bit of mechanical ability, rebuild it yourself. I just rebuilt my 4160 a few weeks ago. First time I had ever attempted a "real" carburetor (did an atv and a 2HP outboard once). Easy job, hardest part is getting the old gaskets off of the various pieces. Try skidim.com, they have rebuild kits. Just pull the numbers off of the air horn and either match them up with the descriptions they on the site have or call them up and they'll take care of you. For $50 and a weekend of labor it's worth it. Good learning experience too in my opinion. Just be very anal with cleaning and removing gaskets. Also, do the carb one section at a time so that you don't get pieces mixed up. In other words, take the primary bowl off, clean it up replace the needle re-assemble it and set it aside. Do the same with each major piece that comes off. That's the best advice that I can give. I also found a good gasket remover that came in a spray can at Advance Auto for like $3. Just make sure you use a rubber gloves and do it in a well-ventilated area.
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Old 04-21-2005, 07:55 AM
LakeLottawatta LakeLottawatta is offline
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Boat: PS190
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Get a rebuild kit and do it yourself!
Tips: Get the carb good and clean. Best way to do that is go to a good local independent autoparts store and ask for "Berryman's Chem-dip" It comes in a gallon can and has a parts backet in it. Disassemble the carb, put the parts in the basket, dip them for 30 minutes, the old gaskets, corrosion, varnish, etc. dissolve. blow the parts off with some compressed air, and reassemble with your new kit.
Good Luck
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:00 AM
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6ballsisall 6ballsisall is offline
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Agree with the rest it is probably rebuildable. Looking at the pics it sure is corroded on the outside. That shouldn't affect performance as long as the inside doesn't look the same. When you have it tore apart get your dremel out with a brush bit and give er heck!
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:03 AM
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jsonova99 jsonova99 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeLottawatta
Get a rebuild kit and do it yourself!
Tips: Get the carb good and clean. Best way to do that is go to a good local independent autoparts store and ask for "Berryman's Chem-dip" It comes in a gallon can and has a parts backet in it. Disassemble the carb, put the parts in the basket, dip them for 30 minutes, the old gaskets, corrosion, varnish, etc. dissolve. blow the parts off with some compressed air, and reassemble with your new kit.
Good Luck
I'll have to try some of that stuff. I had to spray and scrape all of the damn gaskets off. I used denatured alcohol to clean the parts which worked out well. The carb seems to be running a lot better than before.
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  #8  
Old 04-21-2005, 08:20 AM
wesgardner wesgardner is offline
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Boat: Maristar 240 1989 454 cu. in. 13/13 prop.
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Hey DA,

That looks like a 4150 dual pump. Go to Holley's web site for some exploded views, skiDIM is a good source for parts (and knowledge) as others have posted. The "List" number on a Holley carb is important - it's a 4-digit number stamped on the air horn, the lower number is when it was built. From the list # you can also get the cfm of th carb.

Hope this helps

Wes
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Last edited by wesgardner; 04-21-2005 at 08:23 AM.
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  #9  
Old 04-21-2005, 08:35 AM
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jsonova99 jsonova99 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wesgardner
Hey DA,

That looks like a 4150 dual pump. Go to Holley's web site for some exploded views, skiDIM is a good source for parts (and knowledge) as others have posted. The "List" number on a Holley carb is important - it's a 4-digit number stamped on the air horn, the lower number is when it was built. From the list # you can also get the cfm of th carb.

Hope this helps

Wes
Isn't that the one that some people were complaining about? Hot stalls, etc. If that is the case, then maybe he's better off jsut buying a 4160.
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  #10  
Old 04-21-2005, 09:37 AM
DAinAZ DAinAZ is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Boat: 1992 Prostar 190
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 73
I have just been on this website for a week or so, and I am AMAZED at how many responses I got in such a short period of time. I put the post up last night before bed, and here I am at 6:30a ready a whole list of responses! THANKS EVERYONE.

Now I will try to answer some of your questions and comments.

H2OSkeeFreek: It has never been in salt water. How it ends up getting corroded is that it sits outside, not in a garage. I have a cover on the boat, but during the winter I usually put a plastic tarp over the boat to keep most of the rain out. (It does rain in AZ, ocassionally!) Once the moisture is in the air, the tarp ends up acting like a green house and the moisture condensates in the engine compartment. That is why I think most of it is oxidation, rather than corrosion.

erkoehler: I've read every thread on the board I could find out carburetors. That is what gave me hope that I wouldn't have to buy a new one and spend the $500. I just didn't have the confidence, and that is why I requested everyones opinions. I'll try to post some pics of the whole boat later.

jsonova99: You are my inspiration. I have read your posts on your carb rebuild. I really felt your pain trying to get the gaskets off. I am going to try and find the stuff LakeLottawatta recommended. Sounds like the easiest way to go. I will keep all your comments in mind though as I progress.

jrandol: The only parts that seem oxidized on the inside is the airhorn and the flap covering the airhorn, and I think it is just on the top. The two vent tubes are also pretty gone, but I think I can replace those. Since it is mostly on the outside, I think it can be rebuilt.

wesgardner: Thanks for the info on going to the Holly website. I have the Indmar manual which included the information on the carb. It took me a while to find the numbers since they were under the oxidation. I had to use an SOS pad and a toothbrush to read them.

Everyone: Thanks for your quick replys. I am going to research my carb a little more, then probably get a rebuild kit from skidim.com. I got an impeller and a belt from them and they are great to deal with. When I get to it, I'll start another thread with my adventures in rebuilding a carb. Stay tuned...

ps - How do you post pictures so they show up in the message, and not just a link to the pictures?
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