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  #1  
Old 08-09-2004, 03:52 PM
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Procedure for changing a propeller

I know someone posted some advice on how to change a propeller on the old board, but I can't seem to get on the old board to search for it? Anyway, probably a good idea to get it documented here anyway.

From what I recall, the old thread suggested using valve grinding paste to make sure the new prop seats completely and is well balanced. Any other suggestions?
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  #2  
Old 08-09-2004, 04:08 PM
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captkidd captkidd is offline
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Opinions seem to vary pretty widely on here, but this is what I do:

- remove cotter pin and lock nut (in order to do this you're going to have to prevent the prop from turning; I usually use a piece of 2x2 or 2x4 long enough to wedge between the prop blades and the trailer or strut)

- I use a prop puller to remove the prop; I just tighten it until the prop literally pops off (be careful because when the thing finally pops it has a tendency to fall on the floor, so put something there to cushion it's fall).

- I examine the key to make sure it isn't damaged and then reuse it if not.

- I have never used valve grinding paste, so I can't help you there. I have used a little marine grease on the shaft to help with future removal.
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  #3  
Old 08-09-2004, 04:15 PM
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I ordered the "harmonic puller" from Acme, anyone have experience using it? From what I gather, it's a hunk of brass you screw on to the shaft then hit it with a hammer producing vibrations that make the prop come free?
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Old 08-09-2004, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captkidd
Opinions seem to vary pretty widely on here, but this is what I do:

- remove cotter pin and lock nut (in order to do this you're going to have to prevent the prop from turning; I usually use a piece of 2x2 or 2x4 long enough to wedge between the prop blades and the trailer or strut)

- I use a prop puller to remove the prop; I just tighten it until the prop literally pops off (be careful because when the thing finally pops it has a tendency to fall on the floor, so put something there to cushion it's fall).

- I examine the key to make sure it isn't damaged and then reuse it if not.

- I have never used valve grinding paste, so I can't help you there. I have used a little marine grease on the shaft to help with future removal.
Capt. Kidd
Just a suggestion but if loosen the prop nut a few complete turns when the prop pops it says on the shaft and not the floor.
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  #5  
Old 08-09-2004, 04:59 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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I installed my first prop when I dropped off my father-in-law's now gouge-free prostar. I got it back from the mechanic with the prop off so the glass work could be done. Upon advice of local inboard mechanic, I, with something very soft under it just in case, put the key on the shaft, put the prop on, tightened the nut to 1/4 turn past snug, and installed the pin.

Haven't had experience with the harmonic puller yet, but I remember that Tim has one.
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  #6  
Old 08-09-2004, 05:47 PM
sledhead800 sledhead800 is offline
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I Had Never Touched A Prop In My Life Until Last Week. The Dealer Sent Me With A Harmonic Puller. Dont Use A Dead Blow Mallet, Use A Regular Hammer And Just Give It Three Maybe Four Light Hits And It Should Come Right Off. It Was Very Slick How The Thing Works. Make Sure To Leave At Least 1/4 Inch Gap Between The Prop And Puller So It Has Room To Vibrate Off.......move As Necessary. Hope This Helps
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  #7  
Old 08-09-2004, 06:34 PM
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So the prop doesn't need any special treatment to seat correctly? Just pull the old one, and basically reverse the steps to put the new one on?
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Old 08-09-2004, 06:42 PM
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Just a question guys. How Tight should the nut be pushing the prop onto the tapered shaft. Just took off tthe prop for the first time on my boat and I did not need to use a puller. Just took out the cotter pin, nut and pulled the prop off. Put it back on snug (visually the same as when it came off). Is the puller for if its corroded on, or is my prop on way too loose?
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  #9  
Old 08-17-2004, 09:24 AM
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Thrall

Sorry Iím not sure?? Now, may I hijack the thread.

While under my boat this morning I shook the running gear to see if it was tight. I found a loose prop. Cotter pin is in, I have a brass nut but, when I grab my prop it moves a little, just a little but I assume it should not??

So.
How Tight should the nut be pushing the prop onto the tapered shaft?
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  #10  
Old 08-17-2004, 09:53 AM
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As long as the nut isn't galled, it needs to go on good and tight. In the neighborhood of 50-75 ft-lb. If you can turn the nut by hand while the nylon locking ring is past the end of the threads, you need to replace it. There should be a good amount of resistance, but only form the nylon.
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