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Old 03-25-2005, 11:00 PM
planoboy planoboy is offline
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Boat: MC, 225VRS, 1994, 5.7 TBI
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solenoid

Seeking advise.
'94 Maristar 225vrs 350 TBI new to me last year. 160hrs. last 30hrs mine. Since I got it, it has started fine, 9 time out of 10, but would occasionaly not turn over. I mean nothing. Open engine compartment, and I could hear fuel pump, but not even a solenoid click. Wait a 10 seconds, turn off, then on, and it would crank. Not today. Started fine at ramp, and once later, then nothing. buddy towed me in. (fortunately another MC, cost me pizza and beer ). Arced across starter solenoid and it started once, then died. tried again, it turned over but not immediate start. Did not want to hurt anything so towed it in and started searching this board and the old one. On the old board someone stated it should have two solenoids, one a booster, that and contacts sound like prime suspects. Putting the multi tester on it tomorrow. Sorry for the long post. Appreciate any advise.
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:25 AM
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whitedog whitedog is offline
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Also check all batery and ground contacts. I have had the + batery conection become corroded and not supply enough juice to crank the starter but it would turn on the other elctronics.
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:07 PM
planoboy planoboy is offline
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relay

Is there a relay between switch and starter?
thx for replys
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:30 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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You have two solenoids, no such thing as a booster, but solenoids basically are big relays. They just carry more current. A tester may show that there is continuity, but the contacts may be burnt enough to not handle the demand of cranking a motor. Check the grounds to the solenoids, too. Reference all grounds and 12V+ to the battery posts. Speaking of the posts, clean them ASAP. Also, remove the starter, lube the Bendix shaft and clean the mating surface where it mounts to the block. This is where the starter gets its ground. If all of this doesn't help or eliminate the problem, have the battery and starter tested.

If the battery has been depleted to the point of not cranking at full speed, the current demand of the starter increases and all cables and contacts heat up. Contacts tend to burn under these conditions.

Search for other posts on this subject here.
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:32 PM
Storm861triple Storm861triple is offline
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Neutral start-safety switch.

That's where I'd look first.
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:36 PM
Storm861triple Storm861triple is offline
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Why two solinoinds? Where is the second one? Does the older 351 have two as well?

He said the starter doesn't even click, so it seems that he is not getting power to the starter solinoid (on the starter). I would check for bower there first, and I bet there won't be any....so then I would check the neutral start-safety switch for continuity.

If there IS power at the starter yet no click, then the winding in the solinoid coil is junk. He'll need a new solinoid. (starter for most people)
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Old 03-26-2005, 04:42 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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I never thought two were necessary, either. Cars and trucks work just fine with only one. I agree that the neutral safety could be the prolem, but I would almost bet that the starter wasn't serviced as recommended, or that the battery was run down while continuing to try to start it, which beat the crap out of the solenoid.

planoboy- jiggle the shift while cranking and see if there is any difference. If there is, the shift cable may have stretched(common) and will need adjustment or replacing.
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Old 03-26-2005, 05:32 PM
Storm861triple Storm861triple is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN
I never thought two were necessary, either. Cars and trucks work just fine with only one.
Yeah. That's a wierd one. I didn't know that about these things. On our Bombardier snowcats here at the resort, they use two solinoids for the starting system; a 24v version of a Ford starter solinoid, which then sends power to energize the "normal" one on the huge, 24v Delco Starter.

The first thing we do when we buy new cats every year is rip that crap off and throw it in the trash, and re-run power straight from the neutral start-safety switch to the starter solinoid that comes on the starter. "Chit you don't need on a hunt'n rig!"
The problem is that the Ford style relay shuttles some times, making a on-off-on-off signal for the Delco solinoid. This causes the Delco one to arc the contacts very badly, as it's trying to turn on and off super fast under load. The arcing ends up welding the plunger to the contacts in the solinoid, and the starter continues to run on after the engine starts. That's it...$500.00 starter junk, all because of a POS $12 solinoind. So we remove that garbage and chuck it. Been doing it for 7 years now and never had a starter die in that manor since.
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Last edited by Storm861triple; 03-26-2005 at 05:35 PM.
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  #9  
Old 03-26-2005, 11:31 PM
planoboy planoboy is offline
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thx for all the replys.
It was the starter solenoid connections. Specifically the positive post on the solenoid was actually loose, and covered in corrosion. (rust never sleeps) Had a little trouble taking the starter off to service bendix, in that the nut on the solenoid switch post was buggered up and spun the post. (smpost.jpg) Took care of it w/ a nut cutter.(nutcutter.jpg) Cleaned everything w/ wire brush, slopped on dielectric grease, cleaned battery connections, and good to go. Glad it was minor. Never could find the 2cd solenoid. thanks again
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:10 PM
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lakes Rick lakes Rick is offline
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Isn't the second solenoid the one on the starter??? Not picking on you, just an inquiring mind....
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