More Suburban issues

[jlf]

2nd the fuel pressure regulator. I probably replace one every other day at the dealership. If you would like to be sure
its easy to check. Drivers side of the engine there is a round gold piece mounted on the fuel rail that has a vacuum line coming off of it. Just pull the vacuum line off of it and check to see if there is fuel in it. If there is fuel in it the regulator is bleeding fuel directly into the intake. I can almost guarantee this is your problem. Simple to replace also. Approx $100 bucks at the dealer.

[captain planet]

Originally Posted by jlf

2nd the fuel pressure regulator. I probably replace one every other day at the dealership. If you would like to be sure
its easy to check. Drivers side of the engine there is a round gold piece mounted on the fuel rail that has a vacuum line coming off of it. Just pull the vacuum line off of it and check to see if there is fuel in it. If there is fuel in it the regulator is bleeding fuel directly into the intake. I can almost guarantee this is your problem. Simple to replace also. Approx $100 bucks at the dealer.

Thanks, I will check it tonight. We didn't drive the truck all weekend. Oops, took it on Saturday but was raining. Not poping the hood when it is raining.

[MIMC]

Captain -

First of all the 1500 Burbans (GMT800 platform) were all new in 2000, so you have the 5.3 liter engine. I hesitate stating that the pressure regulator is for sure your problem, but it is the most probable place to start. Have you done any pressure checks? If there is doubt in regards to my "qualifications" - well, I am technical. I graduated from Southern Illinois Universtity with an Auto Tech degree, wrenched at a dealer prior to hiring on with GM, so yes I know a "little bit" about GM products. As I mentioned before it is hard to diagnose a car over the internet, phone, etc. Please see what I posted below, if you can get a gage on the fuel system it will help save you some $$$.

Circuit Description
When you turn ON the ignition switch, the powertrain control module (PCM) turns ON the in-tank fuel pump. The in-tank fuel pump remains ON as long as the engine is cranking or running and the PCM receives reference pulses. If there are no reference pulses, the PCM turns the in-tank fuel pump OFF 2 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON or 2 seconds after the engine stops running.

The electric fuel pump attaches to the fuel sender assembly inside the fuel tank . The in-tank fuel pump supplies fuel through an in-pipe fuel filter to the fuel rail assembly. The fuel pump provides fuel at a pressure above the pressure needed by the fuel injectors. A fuel pressure regulator, attached to the fuel rail, keeps the fuel available to the fuel injectors at a regulated pressure. Unused fuel returns to the fuel tank by a separate fuel return pipe.

Test Description
When the ignition switch is ON and the fuel pump is running, the fuel pressure indicated by the fuel pressure gauge should read 379-427 kPa (55-62 psi). The spring pressure inside the fuel pressure regulator controls the fuel pressure.

A fuel system that drops more than 34 kPa (5 psi) in 10 minutes has a leak in one or more of the following areas:
- The fuel pump check valve
- The fuel pump flex pipe
- The valve or valve seat within the fuel pressure regulator
- The fuel injectors

A fuel system that drops more than 14 kPa (2 psi) in 10 minutes after being relieved to 69 kPa (10 psi) indicates a leaking fuel pump check valve.

Fuel pressure that drops-off during acceleration, cruise, or hard cornering may cause a lean condition. A lean condition can cause a loss of power, surging, or misfire. You can diagnose a lean condition using a scan tool. If an extremely lean condition occurs, the heated oxygen sensorss will stop toggling. The heated oxygen sensor output voltages will drop below 300 mV. The fuel injector pulse width will increase.

Hope this helps!
Thanks - MIMC

[milkmania]

Originally Posted by rcnjson

I'm not trying to be a Jerk about GM, I just added commentary for color, so appologies if I offended anyone who is employed by or a fan of GM. I like the 'burban, it is very useful I just don't like some things about it.

Good luck on getting to the bottom of this.

Jason

no offence taken because I know the durability of the 3 suburbans sitting in my driveway!

[milkmania]

and they all do what's important.......

[captain planet]

Originally Posted by jlf

2nd the fuel pressure regulator. I probably replace one every other day at the dealership. If you would like to be sure
its easy to check. Drivers side of the engine there is a round gold piece mounted on the fuel rail that has a vacuum line coming off of it. Just pull the vacuum line off of it and check to see if there is fuel in it. If there is fuel in it the regulator is bleeding fuel directly into the intake. I can almost guarantee this is your problem. Simple to replace also. Approx $100 bucks at the dealer.

Yup, that was it. I pulled the vacuum line off of it and fuel ran out. It is a little thing, I was expecting something bigger. Any tips to replacing it? Looks like one metal clip and a vacuum line. Anything else I need to know?

Thanks,

[captain planet]

After finally getting time to fix this, I put a new regulator on this last weekend. The truck is still starting a little hard at times. The first two times it started real hard, but I thought it was because there was air in the line since I had pulled off the old regulator. It seemed to start Ok for me after I installed the new regulator, but the wife says it still starts hard at times. I'll have to be sure that I reattached that little vacuum line to the new regulator.

[TX.X-30 fan]

CP------------- Gas guzzling Suburban?????

[captain planet]

Originally Posted by TX.X-30 fan

CP------------- Gas guzzling Suburban?????

Trust me, if it wasn't for my wife I would get rid of it (I hate that vehicle!!!!! ). Bought it 3.5 years ago when the kids were born, now probably would take a hit if I tried to sell the darn thing. Who wants a 2000 Suburban with 84K with gas at $3.00+. Pure economics are keeping that thing at our house for a few years.

[captain planet]

Well here we go again.

Driver side high beam doesn't work. Went to store, bought new bulb...still doesn't work. Tested with meter, no voltage at plug. In previous wranglings with this truck I had to remove the windshiled washer fluid res. to replace leaky pump (which I need to do again, no big deal), figured that since the high beam wire runs in that area, maybe I pinched it or something reinstalling the res. Well not the case. I can't figure out why I have no power to that plug. Fuses are fine. I have read on other forums about some wiring harness that is near the steering column that goes bad in these trucks. Ugh, I'm not good with electrical issues.

I thought somebody might be able to shed some....uh....light on this issue.