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  #11  
Old 10-26-2007, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain planet
It sounds like P-hat may have the answer. Hey P-hat, was the wiring harness a pricey fix?
I don't recall and I probably don't have the paperwork anymore. I was just relieved to have it fixed after a couple months of another dealer not being able to fix it.

I'm not stating with certainty that what I mentioned is your issue, I'm just stating my experience and some of the similarities. I KNOW our SES light was on b/c the 'emissions' people wouldn't renew our registration without it being fixed.

As you are doing on this forum, go to a Suburban/Yukon forum and do some searching/questioning and you may narrow it down.
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  #12  
Old 10-26-2007, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-hat_in_Cincy
I don't recall and I probably don't have the paperwork anymore. I was just relieved to have it fixed after a couple months of another dealer not being able to fix it.

I'm not stating with certainty that what I mentioned is your issue, I'm just stating my experience and some of the similarities. I KNOW our SES light was on b/c the 'emissions' people wouldn't renew our registration without it being fixed.

As you are doing on this forum, go to a Suburban/Yukon forum and do some searching/questioning and you may narrow it down.
I'm actually on that forum now getting ready to post my problem to see if anyone there can help. Thanks for your direction.
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  #13  
Old 10-26-2007, 01:50 PM
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CP -

Against my better judgement I will fess up. I work for GM, I am in Service Engineering, and I was one of the individuals that approved the wiring repair procedure for the recall on your Burbie.

1.) The recall should have nothing to do with your hard starting unless the dealer "fubar-ed" the wiring splice.

2.) Erratic gauge reading is the fuel level sensor. All vehicles have this issue to some extent - not just GM. The chemistry of today's fuels attack the metal content on the fuel level sensor and cause it to provide inaccurate readings. GM has made several improvements to their fuel level sensors in order to combat the stronger fuels.

3.) I do not believe an EGR is the cause of your concern. EGR will set a check engine light, code, or cause driveability concerns while driving.

4.) Do you have access to a TECH 2 scan tool? Does the vehicle run fine once started? Is the check engine light on? I believe you have a fuel delivery problem. 2000 burbies are fuel injected, no need to pump the pedal to start. I'm thinking injectors, fuel pressure regulator, etc. Heat around the starter is a bunch of crap. All starters are in a "heated" environment - they are designed for that.


Try to give me more specifics and I can dig into our databases and see what I can find. Diagnosing over the internet is tough though!

Feel free to IM me -thanks!
MIMC
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  #14  
Old 10-26-2007, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIMC
CP -

Against my better judgement I will fess up. I work for GM, I am in Service Engineering, and I was one of the individuals that approved the wiring repair procedure for the recall on your Burbie.



Feel free to IM me -thanks!
MIMC

Your in for a thrashing now

Bob. (bout 30 years in GM service also)
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  #15  
Old 10-26-2007, 02:06 PM
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Let me start by saying Chevy's suck. Believe me, I know, especially after "marrying" into one (my wife's truck, she had it before we were married) and it is my job to maintain it. Why the general didn't go to the parts bin for fuel injection parts is beyond me. What you have here is GM's stoopid sequential fuel injection system that needs 60 PSI to start and the general, in their infinite wisdom, used a pump that can supply maybe 65 PSI on a good day. However, when the pump gets old, or you run it lower than a 1/4 tank of gas, or you run it out of gas it starts to wear out. You see, the pump needs fuel around it to cool it, especially when you are running it at basically full capacity all the time, so when you run it low the pump gets hot and starts to wear out and eventually, maybe you can run it out of gas twice, the pump will not be able to supply the 60 PSI required to start the truck. Then instead of putting an access hole in the truck, why not put it under the carpet, you have to drop the tank to get to the pump out. Let me tell you, after replacing 2 pumps (wife is not good at watching the gas gauge, she is really hot though so I let it slide) it would be only slightly more difficult to pull the body off the frame than it would be to drop the tank. There are so many vents and cheap plastic fittings coming in and out of that thing, it is nearly impossible to do without breaking one off, especially the first time. So my rant is over, but if the general had used a bosch style injector which will start great at 20 PSI less than their "outhouse engineered" crap you wouldn't have any problems for as long as you have the truck. Instead, unless you keep it full, you will be replacing pumps every other year. Don't believe me? Then why did the general switch to a bosch style injector for '02?
Camaro's suck too, they are really slow.
Corvette's... I like those.
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  #16  
Old 10-26-2007, 02:50 PM
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Well here is what I have come up with from the other forum.

I was told that it was probably a fuel pressure regulator. I was told it is a common problem for them to leak and flood the engine which causes a hard start when the engine is warm. It usually isn't a problem when the engine is cold since the fuel will have evaporated and thus not flood the engine. I'm hoping/thinking this is it since I have been getting a gasoline smell coming from the engine lately. I thought it was my fuel filter leaking that I just replaced, but every time I check it, it isn't leaking.

If it is what rcnjson suggested I am going to go through the roof. I have told my wife time and time again not to let the truck get below 1/4 tank at least 50 times, and I'll get in the truck and the "low fuel" light will be on.

Pressure regulator is around $50 or so and I can do myself. If it is the fuel pump.....I can do it myself, but I will be less than pleased about it.

MIMC, does this sound reasonable as to the problem?
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  #17  
Old 10-26-2007, 03:39 PM
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Good god! best thing you could do is forget what you read there. Not bustin his chops, (he barefoots and his wife is cute as a button so he's doing something right)

If you are going to spend hard money blind advice from a forum you better stick with the likes of MIMC. Even if that man has ZERO in field wrenching experience the info he has to offer is beyond your wildest dreams I am surprised he chimed in. The field engineer's I know would not

If you are game for the progect pull the upper plenum to get a look at the ingectors If there is ANY wet fuel in the area replace the reg, the fuel will more than likely be coming out of what looks like a vacuum fitting on the regulator.
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  #18  
Old 10-26-2007, 03:44 PM
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Ok, I might have had my years screwed up here, but our truck is a 97, 5.7 liter, and has that stoopid spyder setup that I don't like. Yours is a 2000, and I guess that the 2000's had a 5.3L? I guess I thought they switched in 2002 I've been wrong before, I know what it looks like. If you have a 5.7, it is probably (I'd lay the lumber on it) the pump, if it is the 5.3, it might not be. I was told the same thing, fuel pressure regulator leaking, but I diagnosed that to be functional. I just hooked up my fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve and clicked the key. I wasn't looking for a specific number here, but if it held pressure, the regulator would not be leaking. So I was sure that the regulator was good. I was pretty happy about that because that regulator (on our truck) is part of the stoopid spyder assembly which has to be replaced as a unit at a bargain basement price of $400, probably closer to a "G" at the dealer. I did all the same stuff you did, new battery, new fuel filter, and I chased and cleaned all the grounds it wasn't until I came across the specs for fuel pressure that I realized what the problem was. Then I did the same check and sure enough like 58-59 PSI at the schrader valve which is not going to start the truck (again our truck). It made sense after I sat down and thought about it, little lady ran out of gas, I remember going to fill it up with a can as it sat on the highway. Hard starts after that and then wouldn't start at all.

I'm not trying to be a Jerk about GM, I just added commentary for color, so appologies if I offended anyone who is employed by or a fan of GM. I like the 'burban, it is very useful I just don't like some things about it.

Good luck on getting to the bottom of this.

Jason
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  #19  
Old 10-26-2007, 04:07 PM
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We have a 2000 Suburban with 93,000 miles i think. Everything works fine...knock on wood...
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  #20  
Old 10-26-2007, 04:27 PM
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I also have a Yukon of the same vintage

Jason, when I have real work to do I get the old school 7.3 super duty out of the garage

In all fairness though if it had to be replaced it would be a Dmax HD They have "Harry homeownerized" trucks to the point where they are all toys. You need something with a GVWR above 10000lb to get the job done anymore.
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