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  #111  
Old 07-12-2010, 10:40 PM
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I'm standing at my truck now. No wires damaged however when I was done putting my front tires on my truck, I checked my ball joints and my tie rod ends for play (my wife complained a couple weeks ago about a couple of loud noises coming from the front
of the truck). I put the wheels back on they have a bunch of play in them a d it isn't the ball joints. Upon further investigation it appears that the cv joints are worn and have slop in them! Uh, I'm guessing this needs fixed sooner rather than later? Is it even safe to drive like this?
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  #112  
Old 07-12-2010, 10:50 PM
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It is safe to drive , However the longer you wait the more wear you put on other part. A few weeks yes a few months no. Hope this helps! Sorry about the bad luck!
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  #113  
Old 07-12-2010, 11:01 PM
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Thanks Knox. Wow does that seem loose though. Looks like I'll be getting my truck fixed instead of going to Norris this weekend. I can fix most things on vehicles......but cv joints are something I have yet to attempt. I'm guessing about $1500 for this adventure?




I hate automobiles........
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  #114  
Old 07-13-2010, 09:51 AM
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Sorry to hear about your luck Captain, but better to take that hit now then have much bigger problems later. Depending on where you take it, I think it could be less than the $1500 you're thinking. Good luck.
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  #115  
Old 07-13-2010, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oxberger View Post
Sorry to hear about your luck Captain, but better to take that hit now then have much bigger problems later. Depending on where you take it, I think it could be less than the $1500 you're thinking. Good luck.
Is it typical for the whole wheel to move like the ball joints are severely worn when the cv joints are going? When the truck is jacked up and the wheels are off the ground, the wheel can be moved around. It's loose. That can't be good. I don't know what holds it in place behind the rotor because I didn't take it apart that far last night. What I know is the cv joint has play.
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  #116  
Old 07-13-2010, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain planet View Post
Is it typical for the whole wheel to move like the ball joints are severely worn when the cv joints are going? When the truck is jacked up and the wheels are off the ground, the wheel can be moved around. It's loose. That can't be good. I don't know what holds it in place behind the rotor because I didn't take it apart that far last night. What I know is the cv joint has play.
The front end should be free of play if the tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, idler arm, Pittman arm and center link (if it has one) aren't worn. These all have grease fittings and should be lubed every time the oil is changed. If they get wet/full of dirt, they'll obviously wear faster. If you grab the wheels at 9:00/3:00 and try to move it with a vertical axis, it shouldn't move much. If it does, it's usually going to be easy to see what's moving the most. If you grab the wheel at 12:00/6:00 and push the bottom while pulling on the top (then reversing the movement) and it's sloppy, it's usually bad ball joints and control arm bushings. This should be easy enough to see, too. If you look at the bushings from the engine compartment, you'll see if they're worn because the cast insert will be off-center.

GM upper ball joints don't always have a grease zerk, which I find ridiculous. Aftermarket replacements come with one.

The good thing about these parts is that most are easy enough to replace and aren't all that expensive. If you have much mechanical ability, the tie rod ends, idler arm, Pittman arm and center link are pretty easy and don't require special tools. A pickle fork (to separate the tie rod ends from the control arms), a Pittman arm press and a hammer will usually get it all out. A ball joint separator may be needed, the control arm bushings need to be pressed out/in and stake-welded in place so they don't turn. If you don't have the tools, Autozone and some other parts stores have a program that allows borrowing them and if they have a shop, the bushings can be replaced there. It's not that hard.

Last edited by JimN; 07-13-2010 at 10:51 AM.
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  #117  
Old 07-13-2010, 10:56 AM
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I don't think that's typical and it sounds very unsafe to me. Anytime a wheel can move freely like that is not good, especially on wet ground. Depending on your application the joint is going to be anywhere between $80 to $170 and I think the labor is around 3 hours if you take it somewhere. Hopefully there isn't anything else worn out. I had a ball joint collpase on me while driving once, luckily i had just come off the interstate and was pulling away from a stop light otherwise it would have been very very bad.
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  #118  
Old 07-13-2010, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
The front end should be free of play if the tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, idler arm, Pittman arm and center link (if it has one) aren't worn. These all have grease fittings and should be lubed every time the oil is changed. If they get wet/full of dirt, they'll obviously wear faster. If you grab the wheels at 9:00/3:00 and try to move it with a vertical axis, it shouldn't move much. If it does, it's usually going to be easy to see what's moving the most. If you grab the wheel at 12:00/6:00 and push the bottom while pulling on the top (then reversing the movement) and it's sloppy, it's usually bad ball joints and control arm bushings. This should be easy enough to see, too. If you look at the bushings from the engine compartment, you'll see if they're worn because the cast insert will be off-center.

GM upper ball joints don't always have a grease zerk, which I find ridiculous. Aftermarket replacements come with one.

The good thing about these parts is that most are easy enough to replace and aren't all that expensive. If you have much mechanical ability, the tie rod ends, idler arm, Pittman arm and center link are pretty easy and don't require special tools. A pickle fork (to separate the tie rod ends from the control arms), a Pittman arm press and a hammer will usually get it all out. A ball joint separator may be needed, the control arm bushings need to be pressed out/in and stake-welded in place so they don't turn. If you don't have the tools, Autozone and some other parts stores have a program that allows borrowing them and if they have a shop, the bushings can be replaced there. It's not that hard.
Thanks Jim. There are grease fittings all over the front end of that truck. 13 to be exact which I get every time I change the oil.

I feel a little like a tool.....but it looks like the wheel bearings are actually going bad. Which makes sense since the play in the wheel is in ALL directions. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Funny thing is, I know what a wheel bearing sounds like when it goes bad and these never did it. Figure that one out. I did try unsuccessfully to get the cap off of the bearing housing to look at them. Oh well. I usually make all of my repairs, but I'm farming this one out. I must be getting old cuz I'm tired of messing with vehicles anymore.

I would like to thank anybody that has given advice to me about my suburban. I also use Automotiveforums.com and chevyforums.com as an information source to help me when working on my truck. 9 times out of 10 I get an answer or advice on here LONG BEFORE I get an answer on those other two forums. You can't put a price on the value of this forum and the people on it.....well, everyone except Tricky!
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  #119  
Old 07-13-2010, 11:22 AM
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I would like to thank anybody that has given advice to me about my suburban. I also use Automotiveforums.com and chevyforums.com as an information source to help me when working on my truck. 9 times out of 10 I get an answer or advice on here LONG BEFORE I get an answer on those other two forums. You can't put a price on the value of this forum and the people on it.....well, everyone except Tricky!

AMEN on the that! (except the Tricky part, I don't know him that well to comment but he seems like he adds value to the board along with a lot of humor)
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  #120  
Old 07-13-2010, 11:25 AM
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Sorry to hear you have issues again. I highly doubt you have front axle/joint issues - not to common for them to fail unless you had some damage to the boot. If you have that much free play then I'm guessing hub/bearing, ball joints, or tie rod ends. My first guess is tie rod ends. If you had an axle/cv joint failing you would have some noise, vibration, and possibly some clicking/clunking noises, especially while making turns. If you have a hub/bearing starting to go then you should feel some vibration in the wheel and could even possibly hear a change in pitch of vibration when swerving from left to right (loading the bearing). My guess is suspension, in particular tie rod ends. They are cheap and I consider them as cheap insurance. You lose a tie rod end and you lose your steering input on that wheel. After replacing tie rod ends you will need to get a toe-set alignment, probably around $90. In regards to ABS, common on those trucks for the front sensor holders to develop rust and eventually push the sensor out of position, thus losing the ability to make good contact with the reluctor. Pull out your sensor, clean the holder out, make sure to remove any rust and place just a slight amount of lube in the holder - DO NOT get any grease on the end of the sensor. Put your sensor back in and make sure it is fully seated. No cost, just some time and labor of your own - I'm pretty sure that will resolve your ABS light - especially if intermittent! Good luck!
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