Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Engine / Drive Train

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-28-2005, 01:47 PM
milkmania's Avatar
milkmania milkmania is offline
MC Platinum
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: White/Red 91 PS 190
Location: God's blindspot aka Oklahoma
Posts: 9,155
I have fuel, but no spark

91 PS190 351 Indmar/with Holley carb.

I found out today, that I do have good fuel flow, but no spark.
I pulled a plug, put the wire back on the plug, then grounded the metal part of the plug, cranked it over and no spark.

In saying this, I also do not have reading on fuel gauge, amp gauge, or depth sounder.
blower/bilge/horn/lights/acc all work fine.
tried resetting push button switches on control panel, and the red switch on the back of motor. confirmed lanyard/kill switch was secure.

I need an idea on where to start, and what to bypass for troubleshooting purposes only.

thanks guys
__________________
WE LIVE IN THE LAND OF THE FREE, BECAUSE OF THE BRAVE


Team MasterCraft Google Search Engine
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-28-2005, 01:58 PM
jsonova99's Avatar
jsonova99 jsonova99 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 1991 Mastercraft Prostar 190
Location: Eastern Shore of Virginia
Posts: 1,052
I have the same boat, but have not run across this. I would think that it has to be fuse realted based on the description you're giving. I'm trying to think if there is an easy way to make sure you are getting power to the coil to rule out a bad coil. Did you check the small carbon conductor in the middle of the distributor cap? If that broke you would have spark problems, although having your guages dead but other accessories working has got to be the key to the problem.

I'm not familiar with the fuse setup on the boat yet since I've been lucky enough to not have to fool with it. I would start there. I diagram of what's on each fuse would be nice, not sure where to get one though.
__________________
1991 Prostar 190 - Ambush 4 blade prop
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-28-2005, 02:07 PM
Footin's Avatar
Footin Footin is online now
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: 2007 Maristar 200VRS X2
Location: Columbus,OH/Monticello,KY
Posts: 4,542
With what you discribed, I would be looking at the ignition switch (key it self). This is assuming you have wired the depth finder to it directly.
You have lost power to electrical items it controls and still have power to direct electrical accessories.

Just an idea.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-28-2005, 02:21 PM
milkmania's Avatar
milkmania milkmania is offline
MC Platinum
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: White/Red 91 PS 190
Location: God's blindspot aka Oklahoma
Posts: 9,155
good ideas....

let me go back a little further, if you will.....lol

I added the proper amount of Sta-bilŪ fuel stabilizer back in early fall.
took it to the lake, to get "one last time" out in the boat and get the fuel stabilized well...only 30 minutes from home to lake with the wife and kids .

we were out for an hour, and headed back to shore. EVERYTHING went DEAD! no cranking, no radio,horn....zip/zilch/nada
called Sheriff's office (only boaters on lake), they called Lake Patrol, Lake Patrol said paddle in (since it was not life/death stuff) and it would take them 2 hours to get to me anyway.

got the boat to shore, got it loaded, pulled away from ramp.....engine would crank over, but not start....

listened to "I told ya so's" all the way home.....seemed longer than 30 minutes!!!
__________________
WE LIVE IN THE LAND OF THE FREE, BECAUSE OF THE BRAVE


Team MasterCraft Google Search Engine

Last edited by milkmania; 02-28-2005 at 02:25 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-28-2005, 02:24 PM
milkmania's Avatar
milkmania milkmania is offline
MC Platinum
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: White/Red 91 PS 190
Location: God's blindspot aka Oklahoma
Posts: 9,155
forgot to mention
I do have electronic ignition on this boat
__________________
WE LIVE IN THE LAND OF THE FREE, BECAUSE OF THE BRAVE


Team MasterCraft Google Search Engine
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-28-2005, 02:31 PM
jsonova99's Avatar
jsonova99 jsonova99 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 1991 Mastercraft Prostar 190
Location: Eastern Shore of Virginia
Posts: 1,052
When I first test drove my boat, it did the same thing on the ramp, completely dead, motor accessories, everything. Pushed the buttons on the control panel and it came to life suddenly and haven't had a problem since. I'm not sure how that works but maybe something to look at.

As far as electronic ignition goes, you will still have the small conductor in the distributor cap that I was talking about, it 's how the rotor receives power from the coil. Unfortunately, I don't think this is your problem. It definitley sounds like you have a faulty switch or something in the ignition system.

I'll take a look at mine this week and see if I can figure out how this stuff ties in because I would like to know myself in case I have antoher "event".
__________________
1991 Prostar 190 - Ambush 4 blade prop
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-28-2005, 02:47 PM
Homer Homer is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 8
Sounds to me like your kill switch teather popped off or has burned out.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-28-2005, 02:53 PM
milkmania's Avatar
milkmania milkmania is offline
MC Platinum
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: White/Red 91 PS 190
Location: God's blindspot aka Oklahoma
Posts: 9,155
http://www.writeonrice.com/pic1.jpg
878kb


http://www.writeonrice.com/pic2.jpg
708kb



homer, do you know of a way of wiring "around" the kill switch?

ie: bypassing for troubleshooting
something as simple as 1 wire connecting the 2 points?
__________________
WE LIVE IN THE LAND OF THE FREE, BECAUSE OF THE BRAVE


Team MasterCraft Google Search Engine
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-28-2005, 02:59 PM
BriEOD's Avatar
BriEOD BriEOD is offline
MC Platinum
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 2000 MasterCraft ProStar 205 DD
Location: Severn River, MD
Posts: 9,027
This may sound crazy but it happened to me once before. Are you sure that you have a good connection on your negative battery terminal. Try playing with the cables and see if you have any juice. I would start there and work forward to the ignition switch and so on. Just get out the fluke and check for 12 VDC.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 02-28-2005, 03:03 PM
Homer Homer is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 8
You'll have to cut the two purple wires that go to the kill switch and twist the ends together. That will bypass the switch. You'll be able to check it very quickly just by turning the key switch on. The fuel and voltmeter should pop up when you do this, then crank it over and the engine should start.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:56 AM.