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Old 01-21-2005, 07:40 AM
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H20skeefreek H20skeefreek is offline
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alternator wiring

I'm reposting b/c the other thread was getting confusing. I'll keep the issues seperate.

Trying to figure out if alt wiring is Kosher:

The alt has 3 wires. I don't know if you remember when I got the alternator, but they used very NON standard colors on the ALT. The big terminal is read, then a red and black wire come out of the back of the alt and the ground is on the body of the alt. The BIG main wire on the ALT goes to the BIG Orange wire that is now ultimatly hooked to BATT. there is a small Yellow wire which goes to the coil and a small teal wire which, in it's stock form goes to the back of the oil pressure gauge??? ultimately I think it's picking up Purple power or IGN power. everything sound kosher there?
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Old 01-21-2005, 11:28 PM
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Old 01-22-2005, 04:53 PM
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GM alternater

i just ditch the junky ford alt and put a new style gm 125 amp on my boat it works great specially with the big stereo i have. i had a locate alternater shop built it they have to be explosion proof(marine)
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Old 01-22-2005, 07:09 PM
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H20skeefreek H20skeefreek is offline
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I have already bought/installed the alternator, i'm trying to figure out if it's wired up right. man, traffic on the site has been sloooooow lately hasn't it?
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Old 01-22-2005, 08:15 PM
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If you still have or can get another copy of the diagram for the alternator, worry about whether the wires are connected to the right place based on the diagram and the colors. The red/black/yellow/teal isn't very common and if someone gives advice based on the color of the wires, it could be a problem. Most alternators are one wire or two wire, unless it's the small GM style. I have seen the colors you listed but don't have any documentation for what they do. If you aren't using a multi-meter to source out the wiring issues, it's gonna be a long battle. I know you work at West, but if the replacement alternator is different from the OEM one, I still don't know why you replaced instead of rebuilding. It would have been easier, by far.

The gauges should be fairly straightforward, too. There should be a diagram in the box for each one. If not, the company should be available for technical questions. The gauges usually have a ground, an illumination post and an ignition lead post. The ammeter needed an illumination lead post (maybe), a ground, input voltage and output voltage. Solder the input and output leads together, then shrink tube the splice. If you replace the wiring for the gauges, daiseychain the leads for all of the gauges from the first one in line and add one for the new voltmeter. Your other leads should have already been wired this way. If you do it this way, they should all work. If you disconnected things and then tried to get it to work without either documenting or replacing one gauge at a time, it takes a lot longer. You may have a corroded ground buss bar or loose terminal(s) on the ignition switch. Whether the screw is loose or not, doesn't matter. Verify all of your connections with a meter. Also, make sure there isn't a loose ground wire wandering around near the battery. If you have more than one positive or ground wire/cable at the battery, consolidate the small wires in one terminal. That way, you don't have loose wires and ring terminals keeping the nuts from tightening properly.
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Old 01-22-2005, 11:04 PM
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H20skeefreek H20skeefreek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN
If you still have or can get another copy of the diagram for the alternator, worry about whether the wires are connected to the right place based on the diagram and the colors. The red/black/yellow/teal isn't very common and if someone gives advice based on the color of the wires, it could be a problem. Most alternators are one wire or two wire, unless it's the small GM style. I have seen the colors you listed but don't have any documentation for what they do. If you aren't using a multi-meter to source out the wiring issues, it's gonna be a long battle. I know you work at West, but if the replacement alternator is different from the OEM one, I still don't know why you replaced instead of rebuilding. It would have been easier, by far.

The gauges should be fairly straightforward, too. There should be a diagram in the box for each one. If not, the company should be available for technical questions. The gauges usually have a ground, an illumination post and an ignition lead post. The ammeter needed an illumination lead post (maybe), a ground, input voltage and output voltage. Solder the input and output leads together, then shrink tube the splice. If you replace the wiring for the gauges, daiseychain the leads for all of the gauges from the first one in line and add one for the new voltmeter. Your other leads should have already been wired this way. If you do it this way, they should all work. If you disconnected things and then tried to get it to work without either documenting or replacing one gauge at a time, it takes a lot longer. You may have a corroded ground buss bar or loose terminal(s) on the ignition switch. Whether the screw is loose or not, doesn't matter. Verify all of your connections with a meter. Also, make sure there isn't a loose ground wire wandering around near the battery. If you have more than one positive or ground wire/cable at the battery, consolidate the small wires in one terminal. That way, you don't have loose wires and ring terminals keeping the nuts from tightening properly.

Jim, I'm not so concerned about the colors I realize that people change crap around. I've used a multimeter and I know I'm getting juice. the alt. has 2 wires and one post plus a ground terminal. I need 1 big wire to the battery right? then I have 1 wire getting juice when the key is on, then the other wire is going to the + terminal on the coil. this is right correct? I'll worry about which wire is hooked where, I just need verification that this is what should be connected. I'm not starting the boat 'til I get the fuel problem fixed, and I want to be reasonably sure that I don't have some glaringly obvious distaster waiting to happen.

I'm not worried about all of the gauges. they are good (seem to be anyway w/o running the motor) all I'm asking there is that could there be something different about a Autometer 240-33ohm fuel sender that makes it work with a 90-0 ohm gauge as opposed to a standard Tempo sending unit.

as far as why I chose to get a new alt instead of rebuilding? it was 2x to rebuild rather than buy new for me. It was supposed to be setup identically, unfortunatly it wasn't and I discourage associate returns at my store, and I don't want to be the pot calling the kettle black. I should have just kept the original alt. and had it rebuilt. you win some, you lose some, but you learn from all of 'em.
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2005, 06:32 PM
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H20skeefreek H20skeefreek is offline
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Jim, finally found the "diagram" that came with the alternator. ignore everything that was said about color before. we are going to go buy what is actually coming out of this alternator. It says red pole, battery POS, that one is easy. Black-exciter from coil. that is from the positive from the coil right? and the last wire says battery sense. (and I wrote on the diagram that you said: from starter selonoid) I also have something that says taht you said that this could be wired to the BATT.

So, Basically BATT and BATT sense are HOT all of the time, and exciter is HOT when the motor is running right?
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2005, 03:51 PM
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H20skeefreek H20skeefreek is offline
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"So, Basically BATT and BATT sense are HOT all of the time, and exciter is HOT when the motor is running right?"


is that correct Jim, or anyone for that matter?
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Last edited by H20skeefreek; 02-03-2005 at 04:37 PM.
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  #9  
Old 02-03-2005, 04:31 PM
Brn85ss Brn85ss is offline
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I have the original 35 amp in my "85 with the external reg. So mine is wired different.I thought the main batt. wire coming out of the alt. went to the circuit breaker first.I'd call a auto elec. shop to make sure of the definitions.The wire colors coming out of my alt. are pink,green,purple,blue.some might be attached by post but I can't see behind the alt.If you need a wire trace let me know.
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