Teak Thread- Everything teak in here.

[Cloaked]

Originally Posted by Snipe

I'm always open to ideas especially when it's cost effective. That's why we are here on TT.
The Starbright method is the first I tried and it worked, but it does cost about $18.00 for each of the three steps. What are the proportions of your mixture? My Nautique lasted two years without a reapplication; on a lift under a conopy. So the next time I would try the linseed oil/mineral spirits mixture and see how that works in Wisconsin.

Some say 80/20 (Linseed 80% / 20% mineral spirits). I chose 75/25 and was pleased. About a pint and one half did both sides on my board, two coats each side. Cheap brush and patience. Your mileage may vary.

Prep the board in any manner you choose. I didn't do anything to mine other than to clean.

The one trick I have read and also discovered after use is to put on a coat and let it soak for a couple of hours, tops. Wipe the excess off thoroughly and let the board set for another two days to completely dry. Repeat again after drying and apply a second coat (not saturate but apply to cover the board) and let that set for about two hours and wipe the excess thoroughly. Let dry for two days. Flip it and do the same on the other side. Seems tedious but the trick is to wipe the excess after just a couple of hours.

No guarantees but I speak from satisfactory results with this method and material, as you can see in the picture. Other threads and posts here with similar testimony.

$0.02

[clrussell]

Maybe I put to heavy of coats on mine.. I mixed linseed oil and mineral sprits 75/25, first coat looked great wet but soaked in and the wood was about halfway back to its old look.. I'll let it set a couple weeks and decide from there


Tapatalk

[Cloaked]

Originally Posted by clrussell

Maybe I put to heavy of coats on mine.. I mixed linseed oil and mineral sprits 75/25, first coat looked great wet but soaked in and the wood was about halfway back to its old look.. I'll let it set a couple weeks and decide from there


Tapatalk

Your board looks good. Be patient with it and you'll find the right combo. I'd also venture to say that different wood on different boards, and other variables provides different results.

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[clrussell]

Thanks, I'll try to get a better picture tomorrow of how dark it is.. Might just be me!


Tapatalk

[CC2MC]

Originally Posted by h2oskifreak

I did 150 then 220 grit sanding and one very heavy coat of Starbright Gold. It looks good, drying a little more in some places than others, but it looks fair to this point. Some say "wetsand" with 400 grit before another coat. Some say clean with mineral spirits and 00 Steel Woo before next coat. I am thinking about putting another coat of Starbright with the Steel Wool as an applicator? Any thoughts on why this is a good or bad idea?

From what I have read, little bits of the steel wool could break off and get into the grain of the teak, which would then rust and cause the teak to permanently stain. Some people use it and seem to have no problems though.

[Snipe]

+1 on the steel wool. I think it would be hard not to snag some of the wool on these boards.

[ZachDaddy]

Brass wool is what works best without the stains

[Snipe]

That makes sense if you want to sand. I don't like sanding; so I don't.
At the risk of sounding a little (or a lot) stupid, wouldn't that get to be be a little slippery??

[monsterwake]

Originally Posted by Skyskiguy

Hey all,
Still looking for anyone out west who might be interested in swapping their teak platform for my black fiberglass - '06 X30. Any interest or leads, let me know. Thanks.

If an X1 is the same I would be interested maybe but Utah is a long way from Texas.

[Skyskiguy]

Originally Posted by monsterwake

If an X1 is the same I would be interested maybe but Utah is a long way from Texas.

And I don't think the X1 and X30 use the same swim deck - but thanks!