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#461
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Not an expert on wood refinishing, but have used mineral spirits and 00steel wool to sand for a final finish on hardwood planks to bring the grain out. the old timer told me it cleans the fine dust from the grain. Looked good to me.
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#462
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Hey all,
Still looking for anyone out west who might be interested in swapping their teak platform for my black fiberglass - '06 X30. Any interest or leads, let me know. Thanks. |
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#463
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Well I think I've messed up re oiling my platform.. It seems really dark compared to y'all's.. Maybe I havnt put enough coats on it yet..
Before (after cleaning) Wet 1st coat After drying on the 4th coat Sorry the last pic isn't in good light.. It wasn't very light out this morning yet.. Should I keep sanding and applying more or do I have something wrong? I'm using sunny side pure raw linseed oil and mineral sprits mixed 75x25 and applying heavy coats and wiping off 30 minutes later with a few days in between coats. Tapatalk
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1990 prostar 190, 351, powerslot 1.5:1, tinted windows |
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#464
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Mine turned out very similar in color. I am also at 4 coats.
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#465
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Here is mine after the Starbrite 3 Step Method. I think I was at 15 coats of oil and stopped.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...1&d=1360074971 |
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#466
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Mine just seems very dark. I'll keep going and it'll either get Better or worse
Tapatalk
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1990 prostar 190, 351, powerslot 1.5:1, tinted windows |
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#467
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I did 150 then 220 grit sanding and one very heavy coat of Starbright Gold. It looks good, drying a little more in some places than others, but it looks fair to this point. Some say "wetsand" with 400 grit before another coat. Some say clean with mineral spirits and 00 Steel Woo before next coat. I am thinking about putting another coat of Starbright with the Steel Wool as an applicator? Any thoughts on why this is a good or bad idea?
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"One foot in the grave, one foot on the pedal, I was born a rebel" Petty
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#468
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Quote:
Hope that works for you as well. |
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#469
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Not saying you guys are doing anything incorrect, but I have had best results with linseed oil and mineral spirits (combined). Teak oil and other mentioned products have given me darker results over the years. This last time around in 2012, I used the linseed oil mixture and I'll not go back to teak oil or other.
Took me two coats and my board looks primo.... Your boards look fine and the teak and Starbright will weak down in a few months of lake use, so consider the aforementioned concoction. If you're not 100% satisfied, I'd consider stopping where you are and use the board until it needs another treatment, then try the linseed oil/mineral spirits. Several folks here have the same or similar testimony of which I speak. I'm not sure what sanding gets you but it's not my board to say. Most of these slicky-boy finishes are for show and IMHO, not practical for use, but that's me. I like functionality. I pressure wash my board once a year, no sanding. $0.02 .
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93 190 . Hypocrites, boot lickers, and crybabies…the world is full of them…. just look around - near-by . Duraflap / Kaydenco aren't worth a hoot Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8 . |
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#470
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Quote:
The Starbright method is the first I tried and it worked, but it does cost about $18.00 for each of the three steps. What are the proportions of your mixture? My Nautique lasted two years without a reapplication; on a lift under a conopy. So the next time I would try the linseed oil/mineral spirits mixture and see how that works in Wisconsin. ![]() ![]() |
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