Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Appearance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #391  
Old 04-06-2011, 08:05 PM
Grantx15 Grantx15 is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Boat: Mastercraft X-15ss 6.0
Location: East coast
Posts: 88
Barefooter92,
i tried the steel wool, problem was the spotty layers that never got taken in by the wood became. sticky/tacky the steel wool just stuck to it and ripped apart andmade a bigger mess...
tried light sanding... but then the deck was not uniform any more....
Sooooooooo! i got out my good old sander aaaagain and stripped it all
i shall start all over from step one in the morning.
this time i will make sure to watch for puddling where the teak is no longer taking it in.

(2nd times a charm!) knock on teak
Reply With Quote
  #392  
Old 04-06-2011, 10:47 PM
Barefooter92's Avatar
Barefooter92 Barefooter92 is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Boat: 1997 Prostar 205; 1996 Sea-doo GTX
Location: Defiance Ohio; Big Long Lake Indiana
Posts: 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grantx15 View Post
Barefooter92,
i tried the steel wool, problem was the spotty layers that never got taken in by the wood became. sticky/tacky the steel wool just stuck to it and ripped apart andmade a bigger mess...
tried light sanding... but then the deck was not uniform any more....
Sooooooooo! i got out my good old sander aaaagain and stripped it all
i shall start all over from step one in the morning.
this time i will make sure to watch for puddling where the teak is no longer taking it in.

(2nd times a charm!) knock on teak
UGH! Sorry, that sucks. Just think when you crusing the MC by all the ladies this summer and your wood looks as good as it does it really wont matter!
Reply With Quote
  #393  
Old 04-07-2011, 07:46 AM
Grantx15 Grantx15 is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Boat: Mastercraft X-15ss 6.0
Location: East coast
Posts: 88
Hahaha Thanks for the Motivation, and i look forward to the ladies admiring my wood!
Reply With Quote
  #394  
Old 04-07-2011, 11:06 AM
Thrall's Avatar
Thrall Thrall is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: '06 X2 MCX
Location: Eagle River, AK!
Posts: 3,739
It wouldn't hurt to hit it lightly with a sander again, like 220 grit to get it to take more oil, but not necessary.
If you're not into sanding it, just let it sit in the sun for a few days, it'll soak in. Any excess will be not noticeable and gone quickly once you hit the water anyway. Always leaves a nice little oil slick behind the boat for the first few hrs on the lake.
__________________
'06 X2 MCX

"I understand why some people may not want to do this the way I have recommended but I can't understand the death grip some people have on a toilet plunger with a hose fitting." -JimN
Reply With Quote
  #395  
Old 04-07-2011, 11:33 AM
east tx skier's Avatar
east tx skier east tx skier is offline
MC Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 1998 Ski Nautique
Location: End of my rope.
Posts: 25,017
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grantx15 View Post
Barefooter92,
i tried the steel wool, problem was the spotty layers that never got taken in by the wood became. sticky/tacky the steel wool just stuck to it and ripped apart andmade a bigger mess...
tried light sanding... but then the deck was not uniform any more....
Sooooooooo! i got out my good old sander aaaagain and stripped it all
i shall start all over from step one in the morning.
this time i will make sure to watch for puddling where the teak is no longer taking it in.

(2nd times a charm!) knock on teak
I have never tried the home-brewed mixture before. The stuff I use has always dried evenly and has not had any issues with the steel wool once dry. Sorry it didn't turn out well for you.
__________________
Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

FAQ


Tyler Ski Club


To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
Reply With Quote
  #396  
Old 04-07-2011, 11:17 PM
apexer apexer is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: May 2009
Boat: 1999 prostar 190
Location: centra
Posts: 50
this is only and best thing to use,been doing it for over 15 years
-make sure its dry
-sand with 400 -600 grit
-hand sand,go with the grain
-sanding will take 10-12 hrs,maybe more
-vacuum clean
-do not let it puddle
-apply first layer
-let dry 24-36 hrs
-apply sencond layer
-let dry 36-48 hrs
-apply 3 layer
-let dry 48-60 hrs
once your done,it will look great,gives it a deep , rich look
Star brite Premium Teak Oil

http://www.starbrite.com/productdeta...Cat=Teak%20Oil
Reply With Quote
  #397  
Old 04-07-2011, 11:50 PM
Adam Wanichek Adam Wanichek is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Boat: 1998 Cobalt cs202
Location: Northwest
Posts: 24
Go for it. I found a gallon of Daly's Seafin teak oil in a basement from the 60's... Worked Great.
Remember its just a swim platform, not furniture
Scotchbrite then teak oil. Repeat as needed
Reply With Quote
  #398  
Old 04-08-2011, 07:21 AM
Grantx15 Grantx15 is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Boat: Mastercraft X-15ss 6.0
Location: East coast
Posts: 88
Yesterday i finished sanding off the first attempt which turned out gummy and nasty. i put a new coat on last night and after about 20 min i took a rag and whiped it down to take off what wasnt soaking in. it came out pretty good. ill post a picture when i get a chance.

** check this idea out**
before throwing the oil on last night a friend of mine said "you should get a brand made up that says mastercraft heat it up and then burn it into the center board of the deck. then stain over it." basicly engraving the teak.
i thought it was a kinda cool idea. VERY RISKY though if you mess up, really only get one shot at it. has any one ever attempted this or thought about doing it?
Reply With Quote
  #399  
Old 04-08-2011, 07:44 AM
Barefooter92's Avatar
Barefooter92 Barefooter92 is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Boat: 1997 Prostar 205; 1996 Sea-doo GTX
Location: Defiance Ohio; Big Long Lake Indiana
Posts: 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grantx15 View Post
Yesterday i finished sanding off the first attempt which turned out gummy and nasty. i put a new coat on last night and after about 20 min i took a rag and whiped it down to take off what wasnt soaking in. it came out pretty good. ill post a picture when i get a chance.

** check this idea out**
before throwing the oil on last night a friend of mine said "you should get a brand made up that says mastercraft heat it up and then burn it into the center board of the deck. then stain over it." basicly engraving the teak.
i thought it was a kinda cool idea. VERY RISKY though if you mess up, really only get one shot at it. has any one ever attempted this or thought about doing it?
Sweet Idea! You do it first!
Reply With Quote
  #400  
Old 04-08-2011, 08:14 AM
Grantx15 Grantx15 is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Boat: Mastercraft X-15ss 6.0
Location: East coast
Posts: 88
haha maybe next year, i had a hard enough time just re finishing the teak. at this point with my luck ill try and brand it and all the oil/stain will go up in flames haha
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:04 AM.