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Old 02-09-2007, 11:39 AM
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Trailer Emergency Cable - How to attach it

Just got my replacement emergency brake cable in the mail today. Came with a little c-clamp in a plastic bag. Anyone have any advice on how to attach and route these cables? There is some of mine still intact, but to say the least, this is something I've needed to replace for a long time. Will it be pretty self explanatory once I get a good look at it?
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:43 AM
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I've always heard it referred to as a pain in the arse....2 hours max total time is what I've heard from the mechanics.
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:48 AM
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It is not very tough at all... Erk just likes to over charge!! JUST KIDDING ERK!!

It is just a matter of disconnecting your brake line, pulling your actuator out of the actuator tube and once you see how it was routed, it is not tough at all. Basically the cable, comes from the tongue, back to a stationary rod in the rear of the actuator and then connects to the tongue infront of the shock absorber and spring. All the cable does is essentially compress the actuator, by pulling on the cable. Good Luck!
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:52 AM
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Thanks. I think mine is still connected. I wonder if I could just somehow mend it make an extension. I really don't want to pull the actuator apart.

BButler2001, do you do house calls?
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:54 AM
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Pulling the actuator apart is really basic, just get a pair of ring clip plyers and pop out the two pins holding the actuator to the tongue..
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SodarSki73
Pulling the actuator apart is really basic, just get a pair of ring clip plyers and pop out the two pins holding the actuator to the tongue..
I'm not so worried about getting the pins out. I just don't want to have to deal with keeping it off the floor.
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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:59 AM
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There is not much to fall apart, the only thing that you will lose are a few rollers that help the actuator slide freely in the tube...
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Old 02-09-2007, 12:09 PM
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I'll think about it. I'm apprehensive as I went through 2 master cylinders in two years (got a bad one).
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Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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Old 02-09-2007, 12:34 PM
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Here is a perfect diagram of my previous post. You can see what the cable does and the components of the actuator...

http://www.ufpnet.com/movies/UFP_A-60-Breakaway2.mpg
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Old 02-09-2007, 12:39 PM
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Cool. I'll give it a look. Thanks.

/edit. Wow. That's pretty much everything I needed to know.
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Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

FAQ


Tyler Ski Club


To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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