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Old 12-29-2006, 02:03 PM
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Rallyspitman Rallyspitman is offline
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How to lift boat from trailer?

I need to replace the bunks on my 1991 190PS. Its only a days job, so I don't want to cradle the boat whilst I do it, and intend to leave it hanging. I have access to a car 4-post lifting ramp, so have plenty of lifting power. Plan is to lift the front using the deck lifting eye, but how do I lift the rear? Manual says use the lifting eyes on the transom, but these don't look upto the job - more like suitable for mooring, and only just!- How reinforced are they???? Second thought was to sling the boat underneath with a 2 inch lifting strap. (I would have to use the eyes to lift the boat a little to get the sling between the hull and the bunks.
Anyone have any comments.
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Old 12-29-2006, 02:09 PM
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If you look in some of the manuals, I believe they are available in the downloads section of this site, they specify lifting techniques. I'd be inclined to:

1) use front lifting ring and rear sling (which is what I believe lots of the manuals suggest)
2) save yourself the anxiety and moore it somewhere while you change the bunks.
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Old 12-29-2006, 03:37 PM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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The rear eyes on the transom can be used, but a spreader bar should be required for the 2 cables that go up to 1 cable.
If you use a strap under the rear portion of the hull, use a spreader bar there too to keep the straps from pinching the deck and hull sides at the rub rail and causing stress cracks in the glass an gelcoat, in other words you don't want the straps contacting the rub rails. If you have a Overtons catalogue, look in the overhead cable boat lift section and you will see what I mean.
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Old 12-29-2006, 06:22 PM
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Back it slowly down the ramp, unload boat and change bunks.
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Old 12-29-2006, 07:25 PM
jimmer2880 jimmer2880 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcrosby150
Back it slowly down the ramp, unload boat and change bunks.
That would be my vote.
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Old 12-29-2006, 08:17 PM
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Make the new bunks ahead of time, lift the boat on one side, enough to remove the old and install the new and repeat on the other side. If you make them ahead of the installation, it should really take about 15 minutes if you measure for the bolts correctly. You're going to through-bolt them with nylock nuts and washers, right? I'm not a big fan of lags going toward a hull.

I would think about drilling the bolt holes, counter-boring a bit deeper and filling the holes with epoxy and spread it past the holes. Maybe talk to a lumber yard about moisture resistant lumber since pressure treating is for fungi, insects and marine borers more than water.
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Old 12-29-2006, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN
Make the new bunks ahead of time, lift the boat on one side, enough to remove the old and install the new and repeat on the other side. If you make them ahead of the installation, it should really take about 15 minutes if you measure for the bolts correctly. You're going to through-bolt them with nylock nuts and washers, right? I'm not a big fan of lags going toward a hull.

I would think about drilling the bolt holes, counter-boring a bit deeper and filling the holes with epoxy and spread it past the holes. Maybe talk to a lumber yard about moisture resistant lumber since pressure treating is for fungi, insects and marine borers more than water.
I used this exact method and it worked very well. I used a 4x4 and a floor jack on the back corner and jacked that corner of the boat up 12 inches. The boat was still supported by the other side and the bow.
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Old 12-30-2006, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMCNo1
The rear eyes on the transom can be used, but a spreader bar should be required for the 2 cables that go up to 1 cable.
If you use a strap under the rear portion of the hull, use a spreader bar there too to keep the straps from pinching the deck and hull sides at the rub rail and causing stress cracks in the glass an gelcoat, in other words you don't want the straps contacting the rub rails. If you have a Overtons catalogue, look in the overhead cable boat lift section and you will see what I mean.
I'll use the lifting strap under hull method - the 4-post lift is about a foot wider than the boat, so the strap wont touch the rub rail so I'll not need a spreader bar. Ideally I'd launch the boat and float it whilst I do the job, but theres nowhere I can launch in the winter.
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Old 12-30-2006, 01:58 PM
Bruce Bruce is offline
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Re spreader bars

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMCNo1
The rear eyes on the transom can be used, but a spreader bar should be required for the 2 cables that go up to 1 cable.
If you use a strap under the rear portion of the hull, use a spreader bar there too to keep the straps from pinching the deck and hull sides at the rub rail and causing stress cracks in the glass an gelcoat, in other words you don't want the straps contacting the rub rails. If you have a Overtons catalogue, look in the overhead cable boat lift section and you will see what I mean.
I checked Overtons catl. they refer to spreader bar with cradle lift not strap lift. In fact if you look at picture on pg 276(2006 catl.) it shows straps up against rub rails. I am fighting this problem with my boat that stays in straps. So far no indentations on rub rail. It may happen. At this point problem is windshield is pinched in at top about 1/4 in. It opens back up when boat is in water. At this point I would worry more about trying to lift the rear with anything but a strap. Normally they specify 4" strap but for this short period I would not worry.
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  #10  
Old 12-30-2006, 04:59 PM
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Cargo straps can lift a lot more than a boat like this. We used 2' and 3' straps to lift 32' Regals off of the trailers when I worked at the first dealer. No problem at all. They just need to be made for that amount of weight.
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