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Old 12-04-2014, 01:53 PM
Roman Roman is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Boat: 1991 Maristar 240 Open Bow w/ 454
Location: Michigan/Windsor
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Help me spend my money!!! Refurbing the 240!

Ok, So I have 3 weeks off over the Christmas break. My 240 is in my gf parents greenhouse. So....I have some work to do!! Help me compile a list of things to buy. I need to get it all shipped to me before Dec 15, as I leave Dec 16.

Here is my to-do list.
Please help me make a to-buy list

-Wetsand and buff. I have zero supplies to complete this. I use wax as you dry for the car lol.
I am thinking going 3m on this and a HF polisher. Thoughts? I need to get this done in 2-3 days as I don't want to heat the greenhouse too much. Heavily oxidized. I am removing all decals, and I have some gelcoat work to do.

-Keel guard
Smacked the trailer a few times. And yes, we occasionally beach it.

-Carb rebuild
Anyone know what carb comes on the 454? Getting the complete rebuild kit.

-Manifold Gaskets
Look to be leaking. Might aswell replace them.

-Engine Alignment
Need prop shaft aligned. Local machine shop
Need new strut. Getting this from nettle props.

-Tie downs.
For the back end. I have none and would prefer to strap the *** end down for towing. Where do I get these?

-Rudder
Lubing the steering cable and cleaning and greasing the rudder box.

-Distributor
I have the old school points. Worth upgrading to digital? Or should I just get a rebuild kit and learn to set up the mechanical system?

-Impeller

-Service fuel system
new lines, filters, and removing and cleaning the fuel tank. Need to remove the rear tank to drill some holes in the back anyways for new platform mounts and tie downs.
Anyone know what filters this system needs? Ie part numbers? I run e10 fuel

-Depth Finder
Mine is broken. I think I need a whole new system. Mine just beeps and doesn't do anything. Looking for a good cost effective solution.

-Blower
Mine does nothing. Need new everything! Should I go flexible or solid?

- Fuel vent
Need to relocate for surfing. Ideas? Probably need to drill another new hole in the gelcoat

-Rub rail
Peeling this whole thing back and need to seal it up. I am leaking water though here in the rear. Im not looking to replace it...but I may need to depending how it comes apart. What do I seal it with? Who's done this?

I think that's it. I will have lots to keep me busy over the break!
If ou think I missed something, please let me know!
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  #2  
Old 12-04-2014, 02:02 PM
Gteeiguy Gteeiguy is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Boat: 1992 Prostar 190 powerslot 351
Location: Midwest
Posts: 52
Etrailer.com has a sale on their ratchet retractable straps for tie downs today. I'm ordering some.
I think you should use 800 to 1200 wet, then 1500 wet. Then move to your high speed buffer. Use a mothers level 10 cut, and then proceed down to the diamond cut. This won't be cheap but it will give you the best results. Don't be afraid to give it an acid bath before hand.
As for dealing your holes, west marine or overtons sell 3m marine sealer/adhesive and they also carry gel coat materials. After gel coat, sand the piss out of that and buff it to a nice shine as well. Should blend in ok.
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Old 12-04-2014, 02:14 PM
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cbryan70 cbryan70 is offline
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Boat: 1993 Prostar 205
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may not even need to wetsand with a heavy duty compound...i would def try it first before wetsanding that beast.
Get a decent high speed...if you have a HF near you get one if they break bring them back
I would go 3m compound, FinesseII then a good wax.
Get the correct and good pads for the highspeed. Not the HF pads from what I have read. 3m or other.

depth finder: http://www.amazon.com/Humminbird-407.../dp/B00417HG3W
I have that it works great. Just epoxy the transducer to the bilge area and run the line up to the dash. I took out my clock and put this in its place.

Tiedowns: I have boat buckels...one of my better investments
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Old 12-04-2014, 02:16 PM
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Aric'sX15 Aric'sX15 is offline
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Boat: 85' S&S
Location: DFDUB
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There are a few threads on wet sanding, but I'll throw my .02 out there. I would say start with a super light grit (like 2k) and buff it out with 3m compounding wax on the 3m wool pad. So I would just start with mild wet sanding then hit it with the compounding stuff from 3m, then pass over it with 3ms finesse it. Then whatever finishing wax you'd like
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Old 12-04-2014, 02:42 PM
Roman Roman is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Boat: 1991 Maristar 240 Open Bow w/ 454
Location: Michigan/Windsor
Posts: 289
I have straps to tie the boat down. I just down have anything to hook it on to on the boat. I have no hooks/hoops on the back of the boat. That's what I need.

Now wet sanding. I was thinking starting high and doing the worst side first, just because its such a big boat. start at minimum 1k...probably more like 1.5, then move to 2m then pads. I will get the 3M pads as I have heard they are good. I don't want to spend to much time doing this lol.

So as far as finishing the exterior. I need 3 different compounds? Damn.....

Thanks for the hummingbird link. Ill be grabbing that for sure!
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  #6  
Old 12-04-2014, 02:43 PM
02ProstarSammyD 02ProstarSammyD is offline
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Boat: 2002 Prostar 209 - SammyD Edition
Location: Southeast
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isn't a hard compound essentially 2k grit as it is? And as others said get the correct pads. Few threads out there on pads but cheap ones just tire your arms out for nothing and waste expensive product. I've used the #49 oxidation remover with good luck also. Might even try that. Ive found that its also great for hard to remove spots and stains with a paper towel so its reusable if it doesnt get through the oxidation.
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Old 12-04-2014, 03:00 PM
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cbryan70 cbryan70 is offline
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Before you wetsand I would try the compound first....just saying. You may be surpirsed.
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She always misses me and when I turn her on it is hard to turn her off! She is MC and she completes me! She is the first ride that wants it as much as I do!
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Old 12-04-2014, 03:16 PM
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EJ OJPROP EJ OJPROP is offline
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Location: East Tennessee
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New strut from nettles? Didn't know JT sold new stuff.
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  #9  
Old 12-04-2014, 03:20 PM
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mzimme mzimme is offline
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Sell it, buy something else. Money well spent. Sounds like a ton of work.
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Old 12-04-2014, 03:29 PM
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jafo9 jafo9 is offline
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i'll throw in my opinion as i've faced a similar situation when i got my x30 a few years ago. it was a florida boat and had some pretty heavy oxidation. i thought about wet sanding and then after reading several threads with folks recommending using a cutting compound first, i went that route. i tried the HF polisher and some off brand stuff with little success. then i bit the bullet and bought a nice makita polisher and meguiers cutting, polishing and waxing compounds with matching pads. it worked pretty well. i'm guessing that a true wet sand would give a better finish, but the meguires combo looks pretty good and give a mirror shine even over what were the most oxidized parts. after that first year, all i've done in subsequent years is to use the polish and wax compounds to keep the shine. i do this once in the off season and it holds up reasonably well.

i'm a big HF fan and i have plenty of their tools. having said that, the polisher is something you don't want to go cheap on. especially if you are going to skip wet sanding. the nicer polishers are set up to hold whatever speed you set no matter what pressure you are applying. thus when you are putting pressure on the oxidized parts, the motor will power up to keep the rpm's constant and power down when you release pressure. the HF model just bogs down when you apply pressure, significantly slowing down progress. unlike a car's finish where you can't really put much pressure, gel coat is thicker and you can be more aggressive to get your finish. also, remember to get a pad cleaner, it helps keep you from spraying compound everywhere when the pad gets loaded up. good luck.
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