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Old 11-28-2006, 01:18 PM
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RobertT RobertT is offline
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Another winterizing debate...dry vs wet..and fogging block...

First, I know there is a ton of info on this somewhere, but what is the general consensus on storing your boat dry vs antifreeze.

Draining the two plugs on my block and the manifold hose takes all of two minutes. Adding antifreeze to the mix is a pain. Plus, the way I look at it, if it gets cold enough antifreeze can actually cause freezing problems. Even if you buy the good stuff (-40) it has to be slightly diluted and can therefore freeze if you live in Antarctica. But...for the rest of us...why on earth do it other than for corrosion protection?

Based on that theory, it would be MUCH easier to simply spray a shot of fogging oil into the block drain holes therefore theoretically giving protection to most of it. I don't know, just a thought.

I just don't want to have to do the antifreeze thing. Ever. I decided to keep my boat on the lift in the winter, and want to be able to take it out for a cruise at a moments notice. Draining takes two minutes, antifreeze takes ten times that long.

Thoughts?
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Old 11-28-2006, 01:31 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is online now
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Antifreeze is preverable, corrosion protection, and to prevent a pocket of water from existing anywhere and destroying your engine.

If you drain thorougly then go for it...

our lake freezes solid and will drag a lift out and break it when it starts moving... surprised you don't freeze up?
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Old 11-28-2006, 01:43 PM
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It does freeze up, nobody takes their lifts out of the water nor their docks. Ever. No problems that I know of.

However, I am planning on buying a bubbler this year...just for peace of mind.
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Old 11-28-2006, 02:40 PM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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The "good stuff" antifreeze is -100, not -40, and has corrosion inhibitors, whereas the "regular stuff" is -50 and is designed for drinking water systems in RVs.

When I used the -50 stuff, I drained the block afterward and was comfortable in knowing that there was antifreeze in all the low spots. This year my dealer filled it with the -100 stuff and I'll leave it undrained. That way all I have to do in the spring is just put it in the lake and start it up.

A lake freezing in Missouri is different than a lake freezing in Minnesota. Here, it will get more than 2 feet thick and no lift or dock will stand up to that once that sheet starts shifting.
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Old 11-28-2006, 02:42 PM
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Garaged in Texas and don't use antifreeze. Just drain and pull it over a few hills.
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Old 11-28-2006, 03:18 PM
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I feel pretty good about it really. I also have a magnetic heater that keeps the block warm on it just for fun.

My biggest question was if fogging oil or something similar that can be applied in seconds would help with corrosion issues.

Is corrosion over the winter really an issue?
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Old 11-28-2006, 03:33 PM
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What,s a bubbler? Also I a am not familiar with a magnetic heater , Can you fill me in ? I am facing the same dilema as you. It,s in the lift and I don't want to do the whole winterizing deal since we can go from the low 20,s to 70,s in a couple or so days. 99Maristar 230VRS open cooling. I am putting on a flushpro this week so I can at least run it some during the winter. (while I am at it I,m putting on a water strainer as well)
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Old 11-28-2006, 03:39 PM
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BigMac, where do you get your -100 antifreeze and how much more does it cost per gallon? Is it safe to flush into the lake on the first ride of the season?
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Old 11-28-2006, 03:44 PM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etakk7
BigMac, where do you get your -100 antifreeze and how much more does it cost per gallon? Is it safe to flush into the lake on the first ride of the season?
Antifreeze at West Marine

It's propylene glycol - environmentally safe to run into the lake.
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  #10  
Old 11-28-2006, 03:58 PM
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Do a search for magnetic block heater. I found one on ebay for a few bucks.

http://www.tigerboatdocks.com/noice.htm
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