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Old 10-25-2006, 10:57 AM
buffskier buffskier is offline
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impeller question

As a kind of 'warmup' for winterizing I took apart my water pump to ensure that I would be able to do it and to 'eyeball' the impeller so that I could order the right replacement. Stupidly, I forgot to shut off the garden hose and left it under pressure when disconnecting and water shot out of the gaps as I loosened the bolts.

I shut it off at the tap as water came streaming out of the gap between the housing surrounding the impeller. I took out the impeller and replaced it and put grease where they meet. There seems to be a thin brass plate between the casing halfs that had silicone on the side away form the impeller.

Put it back together and water still squirts out of the crack in the casing. i am hoping that the pressure of the water just 'broke' the old seal when I loosened the two halfs. Two questions, should I put a silicone seal between the brass plate and the back casing half? If so, what do I use?

Second question, the impeller fits in either way. I figure that the flex in the arms will adjust to the direction of travel; but is it possible to put the impeller in 'upside down' or 'backwards'

By the by, thanks E TX Skier for that great checklist.
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  #2  
Old 10-25-2006, 11:03 AM
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SD190EVO SD190EVO is offline
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I'm having trouble picturing where the water is coming out. There should be a gasket between the metal cover you began to remove with the brass screws and the case. The integrity of this may have been compromised when the water shot out?

I can tell you that you can put the impeller in either way - ie. there is no backwards or upside down.
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  #3  
Old 10-25-2006, 11:14 AM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffskier
As a kind of 'warmup' for winterizing I took apart my water pump to ensure that I would be able to do it and to 'eyeball' the impeller so that I could order the right replacement. Stupidly, I forgot to shut off the garden hose and left it under pressure when disconnecting and water shot out of the gaps as I loosened the bolts.

I shut it off at the tap as water came streaming out of the gap between the housing surrounding the impeller. I took out the impeller and replaced it and put grease where they meet. There seems to be a thin brass plate between the casing halfs that had silicone on the side away form the impeller.

Put it back together and water still squirts out of the crack in the casing. i am hoping that the pressure of the water just 'broke' the old seal when I loosened the two halfs. Two questions, should I put a silicone seal between the brass plate and the back casing half? If so, what do I use?

Second question, the impeller fits in either way. I figure that the flex in the arms will adjust to the direction of travel; but is it possible to put the impeller in 'upside down' or 'backwards'

By the by, thanks E TX Skier for that great checklist.
There shouldn't be a crack in the casing. It's cast as all one piece. The only two places for water to leak would be between the cover plate and case, or at the rear seal. Note that that rear seal can be damaged if there's too much jimmying around of the pump body. If what you're describing is a leak between the cover plate and the pump body, make sure you removed to old gasket and replaced it with the new gasket that should have come with your new Johnson 812 impeller, and make sure you torque all four bolts down evenly. Be careful with those because they're soft brass and fairly easy to strip or snap.

edit - I'm referring to the current standard F6B-9 Johnson pump. I jmust noticed that you have an '84. That might be different.
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Last edited by bigmac; 10-25-2006 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 10-25-2006, 11:15 AM
Tom023 Tom023 is offline
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My pump has a white foam gasket between the plate and the pump. Once when I didn't have one I used silicone and let it cure overnight and it sealed fine. The key is not to overtighten the bolts holding the plate on, or it may leak; or even worse, you'll snap one of the bolts off because they are very soft brass.
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Old 10-25-2006, 11:22 AM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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If you're going to leave your impeller in over the winter, I wouldn't replace it until the spring. The vanes can become formed in the housing and, as a result, the efficiency in moving water can be reduced. I leave mine in over the winter so I can crank my boat periodically to move the gas around a bit. But I replace it in the spring
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Old 10-25-2006, 11:26 AM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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It's a '84/PCM engine [Sherwood Pump] that is a different pump than the Indmar engine [Johnson Pump]! Sorry, but never changed a impeller or worked on a Sherwood raw water pump enough to help you out!
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Last edited by TMCNo1; 10-25-2006 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 10-25-2006, 12:06 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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That may be the one where you have to remove the pump housing, i.e., no access plate. ICBW.

Check this out.
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Old 10-25-2006, 01:44 PM
buffskier buffskier is offline
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Perfect link. Thanks, that is exactly my pump.

The water is squirting out straight down into the bilge between two halves shown in the picture.

On the side away from the impeller is where the thin brass plate is and that has some old kinda crusty silicone or something. (not the gasket side; the gasket is in place and supple-I do not think it is leaking.

It is certainly not Vaseline (that seems to be what I mistook as grease on the impeller side) because it is crusted and hard. Should I put vaseline on both sides? or is it silicone? I take the point about replacing impeller in Spring, but I am trying to make sure that if I have a problem I get it now and not when my feet are itchin in Spring.

Thanks!
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Old 10-26-2006, 01:31 PM
buffskier buffskier is offline
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I am replying to myself here, hope that is OK

Thought I would share further information on my post. With a big blizzard bearing down on us, it was do or die time on winterization.

Upon real careful examination of the problem I found a pin-***** size hole in the hose that was in the one spot to be out of view and gave the appearance of making the pump leak. Swapped out the hose, it was time anyway.

I then took the brass plate and cleaned it up completely, It had a ton of corrosive build up on the side away from the impeller. Sandpaper and a chisel did that one proud and the plate gleams like new. I put a thin bead of silicone on the side away form the impeller (between the plate and the casing half) and let dry. When I reinstalled the pump and turned on the garden hose, it had several small, very small, leaks jetting water out from between the halves. After a minor temper tantrum, I turned the motor over and hey-presto- no leaks whatsoever. I dried the pump and ran for about 20 mins. Pump remains bone dry, not even a small weep.

I guess that the pump (Sherwood, 351 PCM) is not designed to take the pressure of a garden hose when there is no release for it. Even though I live in the sticks and my water pressure is only about 1/2 that of my city mouse cousins, it seems to be too much. Maybe if I had allowed the silicone to cure overnight?????

Thanks to the E Tex list, the rest of the winterization was a dream and I was just sticking the winter tarp on when the first big flakes fell.

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Old 10-26-2006, 02:19 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Glad it worked out of you.
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