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  #141  
Old 12-25-2006, 12:14 AM
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DooSPX DooSPX is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shepherd
No I didn't do any wet sanding. I've got some scratches as well, but I'm just a little nervous about taking sandpaper to the gel coat. I know it can be done, but I don't have the knowledge or skill. If anybody has experience with wetsanding gel coat, please chime in here and give us a quick tutorial!
I would like to hear this too?
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  #142  
Old 12-25-2006, 01:30 AM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
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Depending on how much or how fast I want to cut, 1200, 1500 or 2000 3M Imperial Micro Fine WetorDry sandpaper with a block sander. Use something like a 44 oz drink cup or a pump sprayer of water with about a tablespoon of Dawn dishwashing detergent mixed in. Make suds and dip paper in cup or spray onto gelcoat on the area of the scratches and sand lightly, as it's better to sand less than too much. Checking occasionally to see how much you have sanded by removing suds and debris with a wet towel. Once I have sanded to my satisfaction and have used 2000 as last sanding, I polish gelcoat out with Blue Magic Metal Polish till the sanding marks are gone and the gloss has returned, then I wax with Meguiars #16 Paste Wax or equal. Some scratches/small gouges are too deep into or beyond the gelcoat into the resin/glass to remove, so colored Magic Markers or paint will restore the color to the milky/white looking scratches and help hide them. Just experiment! Allowing most waxes to dry to a white haze will also make scratches and gouges stand out, so remove the wax in those areas before it dries to a white haze. I use a 18v cordless electric drill with 7" buffing pads I get from Ace hardware.
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Last edited by TMCNo1; 12-25-2006 at 11:33 AM.
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  #143  
Old 12-26-2006, 03:01 PM
TRBenj TRBenj is online now
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Depending on what grade of compound you use, grits finer than 1000 (1200-2000) may not be necessary. 3M Super Duty compound, for instance, removes scratches left by 1000 grit.

Gel coat is much thicker and harder than paint, so its very durable. If you want to remove light scratches, or restore oxidized or severely faded gel, then wet sanding is the way to go. TMC's method with a block sander and spray bottle works very well.

Start with 1000 grit and work your way coarser until you start getting the results you need. When I restored my deck (above the rub rail) I had to go all the way down to 320 before I was satisfied with the color. I then worked it back up to 1000 (320,400,600,1000 2x). I would have used 800 too, but couldnt find any locally. Each successively finer grit removes the scratches left by the previous round of sanding. I then used the Super Duty compound (2x), then 3M Imperial microfinishing compound, and 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material (polish) (2x). I then finished off with a good wax- Collinite 925.

All sanding was done with a rigid sanding block on the coarser grits, then by hand with the finer grits (600+). All buffing was done using a rotary polisher (Dewalt 849) with Lake Country buffing pads. Speed was set according to the recommendation on each product. I used a wool pad for the compounds, and a wool blend polishing pad for the Finesse-It II. Wax was applied by hand using microfiber towels.

I was able to bring the color of my deck back to life using this process. The white had faded (yellowed) and was dull- and I was able to nearly perfectly match the gel coat that was revealed when I removed an original warning sticker. I had never undertaken a process like this before, and gathered all my info from various boat and detailing forums.

The results speak for themselves:




Shephard, sorry if I am hijacking your thread- your results are amazing!
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  #144  
Old 12-26-2006, 07:12 PM
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shepherd shepherd is offline
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No problem TR. Thanks for the info! You too Harold! Your deck looks great. You guys got me thinking about taking my project a step further and doing some wetsanding.
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  #145  
Old 12-28-2006, 01:46 AM
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tuffenuff tuffenuff is offline
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Shep, I sent you an e-mail about decals, hope you got it.... Scott
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  #146  
Old 12-28-2006, 09:19 AM
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shepherd shepherd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuffenuff
Shep, I sent you an e-mail about decals, hope you got it.... Scott
PM back at you Scott. For anybody else interested in my decal deal, here's what I told Scott:

For the decals, the best thing for you to do is contact a local sign/auto graphics shop. If you want to use my guys, they are:

CF Sign & Stamp Co
Panama City, FL
(850) 785-7953
cfsignandstamp@knology.net

Tell them Jim Shepherd, the guy with the Mastercraft boat, referred you. The guy who runs the place is James Finlayson, and it would be best to talk to him directly.
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  #147  
Old 12-28-2006, 12:43 PM
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tuffenuff tuffenuff is offline
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Thank you much my friend.....
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  #148  
Old 01-15-2007, 08:43 PM
Chaser_rct Chaser_rct is offline
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Hey Shep just wondering what you are planning to do about your fenders, i had a tire blow and totally destroyed the plastic on the left side of the trailer, any ideas?
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  #149  
Old 01-15-2007, 11:12 PM
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shepherd shepherd is offline
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Best I can think of is try to find a used fender and paint it to match your trailer. Maybe Jim@BAWS, Liquid Marine, or Rambo can help you find one. Otherwise, if it's not too messed up you may have to repair the damage and repaint.

Maybe someone else on here has a better idea? Got any pics of the damage? You may want to start a new thread asking for ideas/opinions of the members. Post pics of the damage on it. There's a lot of good knowledge here...

Good luck.
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  #150  
Old 01-18-2007, 01:56 PM
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bbeach bbeach is offline
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Shepherd your restore looks like its going well... my pics...

Here are some pics of my trailer resto that might give you some ideas...
Before pics of my trailer and then my new swing away tongue...

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