winterizing an LT1

[mika]

Hi all. Sick of paying for what I can do. So this year I am winterizing my self. I have searched this forum and have found some great information. Thanks to all that have added their input. However in a search I ran across one thread that made me think. It was a thread that said all you had to do with an LT1 was drain the block and exhaust. Granted the thread author lived in LA so I was thinking that might be the reason. However I live in MI and just wanted to make sure that pulling coolant throught the LT1 was not a problem. Thinking that RV antifreez might have some issues with the aluminum heads. Any input would be welcome.

Also just to confirm Dextron III for the powerslot correct?

Thanks

I wish summer was not almost over

[JimN]

When I worked for the MC dealers, we put fuel stabilizer in the tank and ran the motor to normal operating temperature to make sure the stabilizer went through the whole fuel system, change the oil and filter and run it for a few minutes to get the old oil mixed with the new (to dilute the old stuff), fogged it thoroughly, shut it down, pulled the plugs and knock sensor, removed the lowest parts of all hoses and drained them and then cranked it over to get the rest of the water out. Service the starter,disconnect and remove the battery, spray corrosion inhibitor on it, clean and reoil the flame arrestor, do any trailer service needed, clean what needs cleaning, hang at least one Damp-Rid (or equivalent) in it and cover it up, making sure it can breathe. Put all motor plugs and the knock sensor in a Zip-lock bag and attach it to the steeering wheel or in the drink holder on the dash, in clear view, along with the hull plug. If you have a heater, drain it and blow compressed air through it, at low to moderate pressure. If you want, run RV anti-freeze through the heater system without getting into the motor. If you have a ballast system, drain it and run RV anti-freeze through that, too. Remove the impeller from the raw water pump or remove the cover from the raw water pump.

NOTE- if your motor has a petcock on the block, don't just open it, remove it completely so any sand or silt can be removed. The water needs to gush out, not just trickle out. If it trickles, send a thin wire into the block and move it around so the garbage can be loosened. If needed, get a hose bib and shoot water into the block to cause the stuff to loosen.

Don't use RV anti-freeze and definitely don't pour regular anti-freeze in it!

In spring, change the spark plugs and if you use reformulated gas, take a fuel sample before going out and replace the raw water pump impeller. Either fill the tank completely or run it very low and put tape over the tank vent and filler cap. Tarp tape is great for this.

Dex III is fine but check what is in it now to make sure it's ATF or 20W. You should be able to smell the difference.

[boatless]

I wish there is a completed detail list of how to drain the water from any part of the engine that need to be drain. A list that has pictures. And how to change the the fluid in the pro-slot.

boatless.

[east tx skier]

In the FAQ thread, there is a winterization checklist attachment. There is also a link to an article on aquaskier that contains pictures of the process.

[boatless]

east tx skier,

Could you link me to that site ? I went to the FAQ and did a search, it came up empty.

Thanks,

boatless.

[east tx skier]

You betcha! The aquaskier link appears to still work.

It's getting cold/warm outside, what do I need to do to winterize/dewinterize my boat?

[boatless]

east tx skier,

Thanks so much. I do have a few questions. What engine do you have and is your boat still under warranty ? I have an LT1 with power slot and heaters. It said I can't use the pink antifreeze then what do I use ? And more importantly, where are the pictures. How do I know where and what to disconnect ?

Thanks,

boatless.

[Ben]

Originally Posted by mika

It was a thread that said all you had to do with an LT1 was drain the block and exhaust. Granted the thread author lived in LA so I was thinking that might be the reason. However I live in MI and just wanted to make sure that pulling coolant throught the LT1 was not a problem. Thinking that RV antifreez might have some issues with the aluminum heads. Any input would be welcome.

I wish summer was not almost over

Mika, ditto on the weather, especially this week.

I unfortunately used marine antifreeze my 1st year (dealer said to do so), but haven't used it in the past few years, since consulting this site of "experts". Do what Jim said. My only addition is that my boat hibernates about 2 hours south, so I tow it with the engine block plugs, etc out for 2 hours, which may bounce a bit more water around & out. If you are nervous, just drive around locally a bit, maybe hit Walton Rd. in pontiac, that would certainly get any water out.... Either way, no antifreeze has worked for me & the LT1 for a few years now....

PM if you have any ?'s or want to call.

[east tx skier]

Originally Posted by boatless

east tx skier,

Thanks so much. I do have a few questions. What engine do you have and is your boat still under warranty ? I have an LT1 with power slot and heaters. It said I can't use the pink antifreeze then what do I use ? And more importantly, where are the pictures. How do I know where and what to disconnect ?

Thanks,

boatless.

Mine is a 351 HO and well out of warranty, but by and large, the procedures are the same (though the parts such as oil filter, fuel filter, etc. may differ). The pictures are in the "aquaskier link" in the link I posted above. That's a chevy motor, though not an LT1.

As for the antifreeze question, I'll let JimN address that. I'm not familiar enough with antifreeze and how it might negatively affect aluminum heads to really speak to that question. Now as your heater goes, you might want to use it there if you can't get all the water blown out. But I don't have a heater and am not familiar with the procedure.

I have winterized my own boat using Jim's advice along with other tips I've picked up. I don't bother with antifreeze. I just drain it, spin the water pump, and drive it around up and down hills for 10--15 minutes to make sure the water can drain. I have never had a problem. But again, I am in a warmer climate. Jim is not necessarily in a warm climate though.

[captain planet]

Originally Posted by mika

Hi all. Sick of paying for what I can do. So this year I am winterizing my self. I have searched this forum and have found some great information. Thanks to all that have added their input. However in a search I ran across one thread that made me think. It was a thread that said all you had to do with an LT1 was drain the block and exhaust. Granted the thread author lived in LA so I was thinking that might be the reason. However I live in MI and just wanted to make sure that pulling coolant throught the LT1 was not a problem. Thinking that RV antifreez might have some issues with the aluminum heads. Any input would be welcome.

Also just to confirm Dextron III for the powerslot correct?

Thanks

I wish summer was not almost over

I have winterized my 1998 Anniversary since I bought it new in 1999 (has the LT-1). I fill the tank and add Sta-bil, warm the engine, change the oil, drain the block, drain the heater hoses, then fill the heater with low-tox antifreeze until it comes out the other heater hose (reconnect hoses), start the engine and let the pump pull 3 gals of low-tox antifreeze into the block while I am fogging the engine. Turn off and clean up engine and K&N air filter. I don't drain the antifreeze I leave it in the engine. I haven't heard anyone tell me that leaving in regular anti-freeze (even low-tox) over the winter is a bad thing.
If it is it must take longer than 8 years to have an effect.

My buddy sprays his engine with WD-40 at the end of the season and his engine really looks nice.