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Old 11-23-2004, 11:38 AM
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PeteS PeteS is offline
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Carb Removal

After months of thought, I've decieded to have my carb rebuilt by the experts rather than trying to do it myself. I have to mail it in, and was wondering if anyone had any advice for the removal.

Is it as simple as removing the hoses leading in and out, and unbolting the assembly? Is there anything I should be aware of when removing or shipping? Thanks in advanced for any help provided.

Thanks,
Pete
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Old 11-23-2004, 12:31 PM
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BrianM BrianM is offline
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Yep it is that simple. Remove the fuel line the power to the choke the throttle linkage and whatever other lines are there (can't really remember). Remove the four nuts from the base and your done. Maybe a 10 minute job. Make sure you drain the bowls after it is removed so you don't ship a maltaf(sp?) cocktail.

As far as packing don't use styrofoam peanuts. Any gas residue will turn the styrofoam into a sticky mess. I would just find an appropriately sized box and pack with newspaper.
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Old 11-23-2004, 01:14 PM
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ski_500 ski_500 is offline
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I guess you have some off-season time to get your carb rebuilt, where are you having the work done? I had to rebuild mine two years ago, but I did it the hard way... bit-by-bit. The whole adventure took a huge bite out of the season, It seemed like two months before I got the thing running right. It started with a leaking accelerator pump, and every time I repalced one gasket/seal, another one went bad. And none of the main parts stores I normally use ever had the stuff I needed.(this was before I found SKIDIM) The last item I had to find was a gasket set for the meter block... The only place in the town that carried these gaskets turned out to be a Mom & Pop speed shop (drag racers!). Don't you know that when I went there to pick-up the parts, they had a big sign on the service counter advertising re-builds for Holley Carbs. If only I had known...
good luck.
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Old 11-23-2004, 04:03 PM
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PeteS PeteS is offline
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Thanks a million guys for the valuable information! I'll be sure to use newspaper to pack, and drain the gas. I found a shop on the internet out in California that will do it for $150.00. Sounds like a good deal compared to the hours of intricate labor I would have seen. Tough break on your experience of your carb, hopefully it is running OK for you now. Thanks again.
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Old 11-23-2004, 04:21 PM
Ron Grover Ron Grover is offline
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Had Holley do mine sent it right back to factory. Came out great they only took 2 weeks but cost was about $300.

Simple removal but be sure to put gasket between intake and carb on right. It is real easy to get turned arounded. Will fit both ways and inlets are not that different in size. (experience)
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Old 11-23-2004, 06:06 PM
Lance Lance is offline
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I rebuilt my carburetor several years ago and found the experience to be quite enjoyable and only took a couple of hours. I would recommend it to anyone that has a little time to tinker because it forces you to learn a little about the theory of the various elements that all come together to make these things work under the various conditions they see.

Now that I think about it, I guess the 'couple of hours' doesn't count the half dozen hours or so that I spent doing research prior to the actual rebuild.

Now that I think of it and recognize that I did this prior to wife and kids... maybe $150 isn't so bad given that I have other honey-do lists.

Good luck with it. Curious though... what problem(s) are you trying to solve with the rebuild (maybe this was addressed in another thread)??

Lance
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Old 11-23-2004, 06:47 PM
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André André is offline
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Exclamation

150 $ is half the price of a NEW carb.Also cost only one way shipping.If you have any problem after the rebuilt,the "down" time is realy worth the other half.
Some thing to think about...Ask Doug
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Old 11-23-2004, 06:56 PM
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When the carb is shipped, make sure it's empty and as dry as possible. Put it in a heavy plastic bag and seal it. Nobody will ship something that they know has gas in it. If they can't smell it, they won't know it has any gas. Wrap it to make sure the corners and any other sharp areas can't puncture the plastic bag, too.
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Old 11-24-2004, 08:58 AM
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Thanks for the information, Ron!

To answer your question, Lance. For some reason it appears that the secondaries are sticking or having trouble opening and closing. Right around 31, it'll hold until you give it more throttle than necessary to get to 32, then the boat speed will jump up to about 35. Hitting that 32-33 MPH point is next to impossible. As a side note, I'm installing PerfectPass this winter as well, don't know if that'll change anything with the problem.

Now, I've heard that there are springs that I can replace or adjust, and that would be a good option, but I figured that since the carb now has about 300 hours on it without any service, that maybe now would be a good time to have a rebuild done as sort of PM. Looking forward to your thoughts.

You raise a good point, Andre. Where could I find the $300.00 new carb? I'm seeing a new one at DIM for about $500.00 and a rebuilt one there as well for $350.00. If I can find a new 4160 for the price you mentioned that may be a great option. Thanks a million guys.
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  #10  
Old 11-24-2004, 02:06 PM
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Thrall Thrall is offline
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PeteS, There's a guy on the other Carb thread under this one who has a new 4160 for sale $200.
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