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Old 11-07-2004, 06:04 PM
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kpickett kpickett is offline
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Boat: 1994 Prostar 190 - LT1
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A few more newbie questions - 94 ProStar

Hi Guys,

I took my new boat out on the lake yesterday - ran like a top. My overheating problem seems to just have been the ball of weeds in the system. Everything checked out beautifully. Took a couple skis. I slalomed and tricked, and my wife slalomed. It was fantastic - best wake I've ever skied (except maybe the 04 Nautique - just because the Nautique has no rooster tail bump). The best part is that my wife loved to ski it and ESPECIALLY loved to drive it! We won't put the course in again until next spring, but we may get a few more outings before winter. It was 75 degrees, water 63.

Here are my newbie questions:

1. The driver's seat cushion slides forward with no resistance. It's kind of annoying. Should there be something on the bottom of the cushion that holds it in place?

2. Anyone know the length and weight rating of the gas springs that hold up the motor box - 94 LT-1? My springs are missing.

3. The boat has a shower - don't know what brand - with a pump mounted just above the battery in the stern. The cold water is hooked up, but there is no hot water hose hooked up. I found a little brass fitting in the glove box that looks like it should replace the port side engine block drain petcock. Does that sound right? It has a hose barb on one end. Does the hot water hose just feed right out of the engine block?

4. This boat has a heater - again don't know the brand. When I winterize, what do I do to drain the heater out? just remove the hoses off heater unit?

5. I changed the oil, and bought the Mastercraft oil filter from the dealer. It's half as high as the one I replaced. Does that sound right? Is there a NAPA filter I should be using? Anyone have the part number? 351 LT-1 engine.

6. I know there have been other threads about this, but anyone have recommendations on oil? Should I be using a multi-grade or a straight grade. My old Sanger wants a straight grade, but the dealer told me they use a 25-40 weight oil made by Mercruiser. Also, should I switch to a synthetic?

7. Both the bow lifting ring and the ski pylon are just slightly loose. Any words on how to tighten them up?

Sorry for the barrage of questions, and I'm sure I'll have more soon, but this board has been really helpful so far.

Thanks very much,

Kyle
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  #2  
Old 11-07-2004, 10:11 PM
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Bert Bert is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpickett
Hi Guys,

1. The driver's seat cushion slides forward with no resistance. It's kind of annoying. Should there be something on the bottom of the cushion that holds it in place?
2. Anyone know the length and weight rating of the gas springs that hold up the motor box - 94 LT-1? My springs are missing.
3. The boat has a shower - don't know what brand - with a pump mounted just above the battery in the stern. The cold water is hooked up, but there is no hot water hose hooked up. I found a little brass fitting in the glove box that looks like it should replace the port side engine block drain petcock. Does that sound right? It has a hose barb on one end. Does the hot water hose just feed right out of the engine block?
4. This boat has a heater - again don't know the brand. When I winterize, what do I do to drain the heater out? just remove the hoses off heater unit?
5. I changed the oil, and bought the Mastercraft oil filter from the dealer. It's half as high as the one I replaced. Does that sound right? Is there a NAPA filter I should be using? Anyone have the part number? 351 LT-1 engine.
6. I know there have been other threads about this, but anyone have recommendations on oil? Should I be using a multi-grade or a straight grade. My old Sanger wants a straight grade, but the dealer told me they use a 25-40 weight oil made by Mercruiser. Also, should I switch to a synthetic?
7. Both the bow lifting ring and the ski pylon are just slightly loose. Any words on how to tighten them up?
Sorry for the barrage of questions, and I'm sure I'll have more soon, but this board has been really helpful so far.

Thanks very much,

Kyle
1) There should be two blocks attached to the bottom of the front edge of the seat cushion. You push the cushion all the way back before you set the front down and the blocks prevent it from sliding forward.
2) Sorry my 91 doesn't have those.
3) Yes, mine comes from the port side. The fitting replaces the petcock and the hot and cold are connected together with a y valve so the temperature feeding the pump can be adjusted.
4) All I have ever done is remove the hoses from the engine block and blow them out
5) Don't know that one. I have a ford.
6) I have used Mobil 1 15W-50 since new without any problems.
7) The bow ring is intentionally loose to prevent cracking the deck when lifting. What do you mean by slightly loose pylon? It is attached by U bolts through angle iron brackets.
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  #3  
Old 11-08-2004, 07:32 AM
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mgurley mgurley is offline
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Cool

Small detail but???

5) LT-1 should be 350ci
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  #4  
Old 11-08-2004, 10:14 AM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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4. For the heater, I think I've read that you just need to disconnect all the hoses and either blow or shake them out to make sure there's no water in there.

5. There are both high profile filters and low profile filter. Call Vince or Richard at skidim (www.skidim.com). They will be able to tell you if you got the right filter.

6. Indmar is recommending 15W40 currently. I don't know if it's different for the LT1, but they recommended it for my 351HO. My brother in law has the Chevy 350 on his supra and his oil cap says Penzoil 15W40 on it.

Bert, that's interesting about the bow ring. Good to know because I've often considered tightening mine up a bit. I won't worry about it now.

Anybody lift by the rings? My father in law is building one of the biggest boat houses I've seen. He's going to have two slips with two cradles, but only one for a MasterCraft (the other is for a future possible pontoon boat. I was thinking that if he attaches the cradle to the cables with lifting hooks, we could remove the cradle and just hook my boat up when I'm in town. Both are 4000 lb lifts.
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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2004, 11:36 AM
jimmer2880 jimmer2880 is offline
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I lifted my old Supra with the rear ring once. Talk about creaking & cracking! I don't want to do that again!

My advice, don't do it unless that's your ONLY option.
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  #6  
Old 11-08-2004, 11:59 AM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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There's a launch two houses over. If the weather looks bad, I'll just put it on the trailer.
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Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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  #7  
Old 11-08-2004, 03:32 PM
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Thrall Thrall is offline
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[quote=kpickett]Hi Guys,


2. Anyone know the length and weight rating of the gas springs that hold up the motor box - 94 LT-1? My springs are missing.

Weight rating is not that important, motor box is just about at the balancing pt. when they're extended, just get the same length. You can disconnect them and the box will open and rest on the back seat without falling, in the mean time.

3. The boat has a shower - don't know what brand - with a pump mounted just above the battery in the stern. The cold water is hooked up, but there is no hot water hose hooked up. I found a little brass fitting in the glove box that looks like it should replace the port side engine block drain petcock. Does that sound right? It has a hose barb on one end. Does the hot water hose just feed right out of the engine block?

Yes


5. I changed the oil, and bought the Mastercraft oil filter from the dealer. It's half as high as the one I replaced. Does that sound right? Is there a NAPA filter I should be using? Anyone have the part number? 351 LT-1 engine.

350 LT-1 and yes, Napa will have it, just tell 'em it's a 95 Chev LT-1. There are optional higher capacity filters, not really necessary though, IMO. Oil change intervals are pretty regular on your boat, I hope, and they don't see much dust to contaminate the oil.

6. I know there have been other threads about this, but anyone have recommendations on oil? Should I be using a multi-grade or a straight grade. My old Sanger wants a straight grade, but the dealer told me they use a 25-40 weight oil made by Mercruiser. Also, should I switch to a synthetic?
I ran 5w40 dino oil this year, brand and type are not as important as changing it on a regular basis. Synthetic is ok, and better protection I suppose. Again, these engines do not get as hot as in a car, less thermal breakdown. Don't lose any sleep over the type of oil.

7. Both the bow lifting ring and the ski pylon are just slightly loose. Any words on how to tighten them up?

Lifting ring should not be tight. Pylon should. Rem the floorboard in front of the motor box. You'll see the two u bolts to tighten up.

Glad you like your boat, I am pleased w/ my 96 PS as well.
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  #8  
Old 11-08-2004, 04:26 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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If the oil meets the specs and is the right viscosity, it'll be fine. We've beaten this one to death before, and MC recommends Pennzoil 15W-40 Marine grade. If you want to check with MC on the codes on that particular oil, you should be OK. I have to argue about "these engines don't get as hot as in a car, less thermal breakdown", though. We all have heard about oil coolers getting clogged and impellers losing fins, causing an overheat situation. Also, at idle, sometimes the bleeder lines don't do much when they're mounted too low on the head, so these can run hotter than normal operating temperature. The other thing boat motors do that car motors normally don't, is run at WOT. That shears the oil and the oil film is reduced, so you want something that's made to run hard. Depending on how you run yours, that can have a bit to do with what oil you need. Thinner oil also cools faster than thick oil, but you may see a difference in the oil pressure if you change to something other than the Mercruiser 25W-40. Also, the Sanger has a Mercruiser in it and your dealer may be a Mercruiser dealer, so they make more on that oil. I like the Merc oil, but not the price.

If you want to go back to the taller filter, the AC PF-1218 is what I use on my truck and it's pretty good for anti-siphon, so dry starts are rare. The NAPA and WIX filters are also very good.
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  #9  
Old 11-08-2004, 05:41 PM
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Thrall Thrall is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN
I have to argue about "these engines don't get as hot as in a car, less thermal breakdown", though. We all have heard about oil coolers getting clogged and impellers losing fins, causing an overheat situation. Also, at idle, sometimes the bleeder lines don't do much when they're mounted too low on the head, so these can run hotter than normal operating temperature. The other thing boat motors do that car motors normally don't, is run at WOT. That shears the oil and the oil film is reduced, so you want something that's made to run hard. Depending on how you run yours, that can have a bit to do with what oil you need. .
Agreed, Jim. What I meant, was under a load, marine engines are running 140-160 deg water temp w/ water cooled exhaust manifolds, as opposed to 180-200 deg water temps and underhood temps that will fry an egg.
Yes they do run on average at higher rpms, but not as much load as many auto and especially light truck engines. Granted, if you have 8 people and 1500# ballast, you're working the engine harder.
My point was, that if you use an oil with the most recent testing standards and the right viscosity range (No straight 10W, of 50W), you'll not have oil related engine problems, regardless of brand.
I've run whatever's on sale at the parts store for many years in vehicles that had high miles put on them and, w/ regular oil changes, have not had any problems. I do run synthetic in my wife's truck, but that's only 'cause I'm getting too lazy to get under it every 3k miles and change it, especially when she was putting on 3-4k mi a month.
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  #10  
Old 11-08-2004, 07:10 PM
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lakes Rick lakes Rick is offline
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Shorter oil filter

I use the shorter filter on my V-drive.. Much easier to get on and off with out making a mess.. I believe in using the longer filters ( on my cars anyway) where I can.. My boat is changed much more frequently than my cars and never gets dirty, so I think it will survive with the short one.... My 02 cents....
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