Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Underwater Running Gear

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-17-2006, 05:38 AM
SoCalBrew's Avatar
SoCalBrew SoCalBrew is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Boat: 2006 X-15 5.7L 350hp MCX
Location: Valencia, CA.
Posts: 175
Send a message via AIM to SoCalBrew Send a message via MSN to SoCalBrew Send a message via Yahoo to SoCalBrew
Prop Hit Trailer Prop Guard.

I recently bought my first MC, a 1990 ProStar 190 with Powerslot (boat is amazing)... after boating for 30 some years with I/O's. Have been out about a dozen times, and have not had a single problem loading or unloading the boat on the trailer (1990 trailrite with pivoting bar)... until today. I was loading the boat on the trailer by myself, being conscience of not putting the trailer too deep (or shallow for that matter), and had a few waves push me into the trailer guide post (padded) when I was about half way onto the trailer. I eased the boat forward - and it seemed to center as I slid onto the slats, until it was seated in the V cradle at the front. At this point, I usually need to give it a little gas to get the boat far enough up on the trailer in order to engage the pivot bar (a piece of frustrating gear). I centered the wheel, and gave it gas, and heard my prop grind against the prop guard on the trailer. Ouch (embarrasing). I was a little bit to the left - where the waves had pushed me...

...here is my question, I thought the trailer guide posts were supposed to prevent this from happening???? How do I prevent this from happening again... is there anything wrong with my trailer? or my procedure?

I now need to replace my prop. I want to put exactly the same one on... was a three blade prop that supposedly came with the boat - any clues which one it is? It had amazing power, and was really smooth. Do I need a prop puller to remove the old one?

Should I be worried about the drive shaft? The prop wasn't stopped by the prop guard, all the blades hit the guard repeatedly, for the duration of about a second or less, and is just curled the edge of all three blades.

I appreciate any insight... I realize that my many years of experience with boating with I/O's has only translated so far with inboards, so for all intents and practical purposes... I'm a newbie, so please go easy.

Thanks,

Tom
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-17-2006, 07:58 AM
Maristar210's Avatar
Maristar210 Maristar210 is offline
MC Platinum
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Boat: 04 210 Maristar
Location: River
Posts: 8,818
www.skidim.com for the prop. You did nothing wrong. The trailer posts are only rough guides and waves suck when your loading the boat. Only suggestion is to float it on rather than drive it on if that it possible.

Good luck, welcome and Nice boat.

Steve
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-17-2006, 08:08 AM
Brent's Avatar
Brent Brent is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Boat: 0000000
Location: Montreal
Posts: 457
Don't get the original prop, the newer 4 blade props as well as the CNC'd 3 blade props are amazing & will make your boat perform even better!

Hedge your bets & have someone else around when loading on the trailer. they can winch the boat up before you give the final gas.

Prop puller is a good idea , take the nut off you may be lucky & be able to just pull the prop of by hand ,if not the puller is a must!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-17-2006, 09:21 AM
chudson's Avatar
chudson chudson is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Boat: "81" 351 Power Slot, Blue on Blue
Location: IL.
Posts: 2,006
Prop puller helps, do you have a friend that may have one? and the numbers for ordering a new prop are on the hub near where the shaft goes through the prop. Need a torque wrench too for tightening replacement prop look at the book for the ft lbs. setting, mine is 50 lbs. I think but yours may be different. Skidim is a good place to start as was said above for a new prop. http://www.skidim.com/
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-17-2006, 10:05 AM
TMCNo1 TMCNo1 is offline
MC Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Boat: Gone
Location: Gone
Posts: 22,134
The Trailrite trailer you have may not be the exact same geometry as a factory 1990 Mastercraft trailer, causing the prop hitting the propguard problem and that aided by the wave problem.
Get yourself a new prop, of your choosing, take the old prop off, before or after and look on the hub for the Mfg, date of mfg., and the pitch, probably OJ and send it to them for repairs, then use it as a spare.
If the prop has been on the boat for several years, you will probably need a prop puller and sometimes the prop is still hard to get off. Do not remove the prop nut all the way off, just back it off several rounds, so when it does release it won't fall in the floor and bang on everything. If is refuses to pop off, saturate the shaft and hub with WD-40 and apply heat to the hub, to expand the hub on the shaft and help release it.
__________________
Charter Member Number 1

Quote: 2RLAKE,
At some point in time people need to wake up, remove their cranial intrusion into their own rectal areas, and take responsibility for their own actions.




Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-17-2006, 10:21 AM
Evan Jones's Avatar
Evan Jones Evan Jones is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Boat: 1997 Prostar 205
Location: Western Massachusetts
Posts: 300
Your guide bars may have bent out over the years. How much space do you have at the rear of the boat between the rubrail and the guide bars? If it's anything over an inch or two, I would adjust them a little closer.
__________________
'97 PS 205, Green, 275 HP, Skylon, Hewitt Boat Lift, Aquatic AV CD and Amp
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-17-2006, 11:27 AM
Upper Michigan Prostar190's Avatar
Upper Michigan Prostar190 Upper Michigan Prostar190 is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: May 2005
Boat: 1991 mastercraft Prostar 190, 351 w/powerslot. Blue & grey.
Location: On the "Darkside" and loving it.
Posts: 12,485
Sorry to hear of your troubles.

Now for the fix:
I totally agree with the idea of NOT getting an exact replacement prop. I have a 1991 Prostar with a powerslot and upgraded to a ACME brand 4 blade CNC prop last year. Call Bill Weeks at ACME. www.acmepropellers.com 1-888-661-ACME and tell him what you have and he will hook you up with the right prop for you boat. He was very informative and knowledgeable.

A prop puller is almost a must. ACME sells those too. I did alot of research last year on this, and I am really happy with what the ACME did for me. Greatly reduced vibration, improved hole shot, holds speed better. changed the entire handling of the boat for the better. much smoother.

Let us know what you decide!
__________________
Skidog, dont forget to take your Geritol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Upper Michigan Prostar190
On a different note: I like LOTS of snort comin' out of the hole.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-17-2006, 12:23 PM
SoCalBrew's Avatar
SoCalBrew SoCalBrew is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Boat: 2006 X-15 5.7L 350hp MCX
Location: Valencia, CA.
Posts: 175
Send a message via AIM to SoCalBrew Send a message via MSN to SoCalBrew Send a message via Yahoo to SoCalBrew
In standing back and looking at the trailer, it looks as if the left side trailer guide post may be bent out a bit. This post seems so solid that it doesn't seem possible that it was/could moved... I might take it down to trailerite and see if they can check it out and adjust it. I wonder if they have a way of telling how far over the guides need to be... or if it is all guess work.

Should I be concerned about the drive shaft? or should I just put a new prop on and see how it reacts?

I agree about having someone else around when I load the boat... that'll be the last time I load the boat by myself.

As far as getting better performance out of a prop... wow, that would be hard to believe. I've never had a boat accelerate faster... including outboards... Had a friend literally roll out of the boat when we slammed down the throttle for the first time... Smile didn't leave either of our faces for a week. Assuming the powerslot had a lot to do with that.

Thanks for your reply's. Again, I really appreciate the insight and experience of this group!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-17-2006, 12:33 PM
SoCalBrew's Avatar
SoCalBrew SoCalBrew is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Boat: 2006 X-15 5.7L 350hp MCX
Location: Valencia, CA.
Posts: 175
Send a message via AIM to SoCalBrew Send a message via MSN to SoCalBrew Send a message via Yahoo to SoCalBrew
Steve (Maristar210), I would prefer to float the boat on... but seem to have a problem getting the boat hi enough on the trailer in order to make the pivot arm work, which is why I ended up giving it gas... have any clever ways to get the pivot arm attached while floating it in?

Thanks for the welcome!

Tom
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-17-2006, 01:00 PM
thijs's Avatar
thijs thijs is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Boat: 1994 Prostar 205, Indmar 5.7 w/ Velvet Drive 1:1
Location: Southern Alberta
Posts: 812
I am relatively new to the inboard boat world. I am used to the i/o's that we used to have.

We now have a 94PS205 with Mastercraft tandem trailer. Do I have to worry about the same thing, or does this mishap mostly have to do with SoCalBrew's trailer???
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:28 AM.