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  #21  
Old 06-22-2010, 11:10 PM
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ahhudgins ahhudgins is offline
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Just from the one picture, your gelcoat appears to be in great shape. I love the old S&S boats and they are definitely worth putting the time and effort into. Itís not every day you get offers from someone to do the work for you; you better jump on it before they retract the offer!!! I know a guy who has a 78 S&S with the same problem, just the wood in front of the tank is getting a little soggy from all the years of everyone climbing in the back of the boat soaking wet. Donít panic just yet, your stringers might be in great shape.
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  #22  
Old 06-23-2010, 01:19 AM
Jeff N. Jeff N. is offline
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The gelcoat is good but not perfect. The top metalflake is loosing a bit of it's clearcoat and the there are a few scratches here and there in the side. Try to keep it off the dock but over 20+ years it's hard not to get a few. I love the gel coat motor box...it rocks compared to the padded ones - at least for me.

When it's in the water, it never fails to draw compliments...long and slung low, she's purdy.

I'm going to dig into it a bit this weekend and see what's possible. I think the water has seeped in over the years the via the rear swim step mounts... It can't be good when the factory lags them in.
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  #23  
Old 06-23-2010, 09:58 AM
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oxberger oxberger is offline
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Jeff, good luck with the exploratory surgery! Jim will definately be an assett, jump on his offer because I'm sure once his engine has the break in hours, he'll be less accessible.
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  #24  
Old 06-23-2010, 10:11 AM
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americanskierJim americanskierJim is offline
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LOL, NO I would make time to help out anytime but it would make another great winter project.
Jeff I sent you a PM back. I just want to help you out and keep that beautiful boat alive. I also like the gelcoat not a hard thing to bring back. Have to run I am headed off to the lake to run the LTD for the first time.
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  #25  
Old 06-24-2010, 01:34 AM
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Bellinghamster Bellinghamster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff N. View Post
Ah...a little searching with the right keywords helps. Here's one - this is pretty close to me.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...aking+progress
Yup, that's mine! I'm very willing to offer any advice if it'll help save a classic. I recall getting a quote from a local glass shop to replace stringers and floor for around $2500, but don't like other people touching my stuff, so did it myself. I think I did a better job than a shop would have because I cared a lot about the details.
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  #26  
Old 06-24-2010, 02:13 AM
Jeff N. Jeff N. is offline
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Well...here we go. Let's see what we have.

The target zone.



Uh...right. Not good.



Getting ready to drill some test holes. Looks like the swimstep has been fixed in the past and patched.



Decent wood! Yes!

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  #27  
Old 06-24-2010, 02:14 AM
Jeff N. Jeff N. is offline
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OK. Figured out where the rot generally ends. Drew a line and ready to go at it with a cheap Harbor Freight cutoff saw. Perfect tool for this.



Ok. Floor is off and a little foam excavation completed. The foam in the lower pocket is is definately damp and there was a bit of water puddling in the bottom. Not good. How far up does the water go? I suspect quite a ways...what would stop it after all these years?

The stingers as much as I can tell seem ok. The main stringer is fully glassed in and rings sound when rapped on. Screws for misc items seemed well anchored.

The other stringer may be a bit more suspect. It has been top nailed and there was clearly water damage and rust on the nails. Additionally, the factory failed to wrap glass on the back end of the stringer so it's been exposed to water and it feels like the aft end has a bit of rot. Not shot by any means but in the early stages of some sort of damage. Harder to tell what the situation is in the middle of the stringer where the nails where and water may have seeped in over the year.





So, a few questions...

- how do you really inspect the stinger?
- how far up is the water in the foam?
- should i plan to remove the entire floor and dry it all out - the right thing.
- Or, should I shortcut it and just work up past the rot and patch it up and call it good. Not really the better choice but a lot less work...
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  #28  
Old 06-24-2010, 09:31 AM
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oxberger oxberger is offline
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Jeff, I think you know what needs to be done especially from what you've asked and shown in the pictures. You've come this far might as well do it right and remove the floor and dry it all out and go from there. It sucks, it's a lot of work, but I guarantee when you're done... you'll appreciate the boat even more knowing the boat is sound and is going to last a very long time for you to enjoy.
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  #29  
Old 06-24-2010, 09:59 AM
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americanskierJim americanskierJim is offline
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Jeff, If I where you I would remove the whole flooring(keep as templates) pull all the foam out and let it dry out and replace with a nice fir wood floor and seal it with resion. I would also check the stringers for rot with all the water from the foam setting in there might have got to them. Nice pic's keep up the hard work need any help give me a gingle.
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  #30  
Old 06-24-2010, 05:12 PM
Jeff N. Jeff N. is offline
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So...help me sort out what needs to be done. Assume a full floor replacement. Assume stingers are generally good.

Here's a working punchlist - what am I missing?

- remove all major interior items
- pull the engine
- cut out existing floor

Question: Is the floor structure two or three pieces? IE, is there some sort of separate sealed bow compartment? If there is, do I need to go after it or can I leave as is?

- remove the foam, clean out
- inspect and "dry"

Question: What are we really talking about with drying? Is this like letting damp wood dry or just surface dry.

- do localize repairs on possible rot in transom wood, stringer wood. Apply some sort of marine epoxy type treatment as needed.

Question: Products to consider?

- prep hull for floor installation
- create new floor panels, treat with resin like covering to seal.

Question: Products to consider?

- replace form in stringers, level.
- install new floors

Question: What's best method to attach the floor to the stingers? I'm thinking some sort of counter sunk stainless type woodscrew with an epoxy cap applied to prevent water access.

- glass new floors to hull, main stringers.
- epoxy paint or gel or something center hull section so it's purdy and sealed

Question: Products to consider

....and then re-install the interior.


So - what am I missing here?

Also, what little upgrades should I consider while I'm doing this? I can currently think of

- looking at improved swimstep mounts. Maybe a removable setup?
- added a "water barrier" type board in the back near the swimstep bolt to contain any possible leaks there to a small area.
- new bits like carpet, etc.
- more?
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1982, floor replacement, rot, stars and stripes, stingers

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