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Old 10-10-2017, 11:18 PM
wareagle76's Avatar
wareagle76 wareagle76 is offline
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Boat: 1999 Mastercraft Xstar Vdrive
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Gauge and Dash Issues - HELP

Had an issue where the belt broke on the motor and before I realized the issue all my gauges froze at their last known position. On top of that the dash switches, radio, and bilge all quit as well. we repaired the belt and I made sure to reattach a freshly charged battery hoping at ignition it would reset all the gauges since I assumed they freezing was due to the belt. Well, they didn't. I played around and got the majority of the dash switches, radio, and hardwired bilge to work again (don't ask me how). But the horn still doesn't work and all the gauges are still frozen. I have been reading online and tried to figure our the MDC and Medallion gauges but its pretty greek to me as I am learning as I go with this boat. Can someone tell me some simple things to check in very plain terms or at least let me know if there is some master gauge reset I can check to see if I can unfreeze the my gauges?

Please help...thanks
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  #2  
Old 10-11-2017, 09:22 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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Boat: Maristar 200VRS w/ X2 Package, 2007, 310HP
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Very difficult to do 5000 mile problem determination but here we go.....

So let's get a baseline on where you are.

Will the boat start? If no will it turn over?

You say you reattached a freshly charged battery. Did you remove or disconnect the battery during this process?

You say you got some of the electrical to work. What did you do to get achieve this? I know you say you don't know what you did to get these items to work but any information you have as to what resolved the issue on these items may give us a clue as to what the larger issue is.

So that's the information that would be helpful in us helping you get started. Now for some tings you can do/check to get back on line.

First whenever doing PD/PSI (problem determination / problem source identification) it's best to take a systematic approach to resolving the issue. Start at one end of the system and work your way to the other end. Take notes of the action items you're performing and the result of those actions so you can have a record of what you've done. Take pictures of any components or wires you remove in the process so you'll know how they go back together correctly. A lot of friends I've helped over the years have made their issues much worse by pulling things apart then not reassembling them correctly.

So much for basic process. Now lets start looking for low hanging fruit.

The first quick and easy thing to check is the safety lanyard. Stuff happens when something breaks and I've personally knocked the clip on more than one occasion. Pull the clip off the switch, inspect it to make sure it hasn't been bent or broken somehow then reattach it. Cycle the key and see if anything has changed. If not, on to the next.

Since you most likely removed the battery that's where I would go next. Go back to the battery and make sure ALL the cables/wires have been reconnected correctly. While you're there check the voltage of the battery, it should be about 13 volts. Look in the general area to see if there are any fuses of circuit breakers in the area. If there are check continuity of the fuses and reset any breakers. Once you've done all this cycle the ignition key to see if there are any changes.

The last place to check for this quick check list is going to be where the source of your problems started which is the engine. Since the belt broke there's a chance that there was some type of surge that could have occurred from the alternator. If so it could have tripped the circuit breaker that's located on the engine. Depending on the engine there should be a (i believe) 50 amp circuit breaker mounted to the engine. It should look like this but will be mounted to a bracket.

http://www.skidim.com/CIRCUIT-BREAKE...info/R153006B/

If this one pops you'll get a dead engine (hence my first question about if the engine will run or turn over) and there's a good chance the gauges will be effected as well.

If all this fails doing PD/PSI without more information and pictures gets very difficult as we'd need more information about whats going on. This however should give you something to look at.
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  #3  
Old 10-11-2017, 11:34 AM
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wareagle76 wareagle76 is offline
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It does start and it does run. At one point it wouldn't cut off without me removing the battery cables from the battery. Once I got the new belt on that corrected itself. The safety lanyard is clipped in and unbroken. There are no fuses that I see around the battery area. I looked online at "MDS" and they say it may have something to do with that, but I can't even get the wire cluster detached from module itself just to see if that resets. As far as the other items on the panel coming back on, I honestly don't know what I did. the only things I touched were a cluster of rubber buttons underneath the dash panel that are all marked like bilge, ballast, acc, etc. there are about 10 rubber buttons that don't really have any resistance but I touched them and then some of the panel items started working again. I will get a picture and attach to the thread. I have detached and reattached the battery about a dozen times and it is at full charge.

More to come with pictures. Thanks for taking the time to put together such a detailed response. I do appreciate it.
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Old 10-11-2017, 12:31 PM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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OK that's making more sense now. I'd start by looking at the key switch and honestly would just start by replacing it. Had a problem with my boat a couple years back where the battery was going dead if I didn't turn the battery switch off. I then noticed that the radio wasn't turning off all the time when I turned the key off between sets but that really didn't make me want to do anything to fix it right off the bat as I thought it was maybe sticking. Then a couple weeks later the boat wouldn't turn off, now that got my attention.

Bought a new ignition switch, replaced the old one and all my weird electrical problems cleared up. This is kind of would lead me to believe you either have a loose/bad connection in the harness or a bad switch.
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  #5  
Old 10-11-2017, 12:36 PM
curver900 curver900 is offline
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I believe those black buttons are resets for all the parts all 10 of those black buttons reset a breaker... reset all of them one at a time... possible one is kaput...
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  #6  
Old 10-11-2017, 01:07 PM
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wareagle76 wareagle76 is offline
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I pushed all of them one at a time... there isnít a whole lot of resistance, they are kind of flimsy like nothing is behind them. But all dash panel items work minus horn and nav lights. What else do I need to check... my major concern is at least getting the temp, oil, and volt gauges working. I need to put it on the water this weekend and get the stabilizer run throwing the lines but I certainly donít like not having my temp gauge working.
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  #7  
Old 10-11-2017, 03:15 PM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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If your boat is not turning off when you turn the key to the off position then you have more problems than resetting a fuse on the dash. That one issue would have me changing out the switch before heading out on a wild goose chase.

You have a solid clue as to what may be happening here. Eliminate the one in front of you then move to the next or start chasing your tail.
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