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  #11  
Old 06-12-2018, 07:33 PM
liledgy liledgy is offline
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Boat: 1985 mastercraft 351
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I had an identical 1983 except I had a fiberglass platform.
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  #12  
Old 06-12-2018, 11:16 PM
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FoggyNogginz FoggyNogginz is offline
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Originally Posted by patricksimon View Post
Thanks a ton for the insight! Would you recommend compounding/polishing the gel coat before removing and applying the new decals? I cant imagine being able to accurately re-apply them if I refinished the exterior after removing the old ones.
Very welcome. Yes, remove the old decals first with some elbow grease and mineral spirits. Then compound until everything looks even, 3M Finesse, polish, reapply decals, then wax. You could wax before reapplying the decals too if you prefer, and in my experience they still stick just fine. It makes more sense to apply them to the bare gelcoat though.

There are several threads on this forum where folks have gone through this exact process and replaced decals. I've done this on three boats myself. It's a pretty scary thing when you take the decals off and realize that the gel coat under the graphic is a vastly different color than the exposed gel. The method above will restore it all back to the same color though, and all it really takes is some patience, work, and time. Those that are a bit more brave than I am will wet sand before they do compound if the oxidation is really bad, but I've always just preferred to take a little more time with compound and save my nerves. Your choice.

Can't wait to see your progress!
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  #13  
Old 06-13-2018, 08:47 AM
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babymoore3 babymoore3 is offline
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Boat: 1988 Tristar 190
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I recently did this on my boat and agree 100% with what has been said. I ordered from Autogeek.net to acquire pads (6") and used a harbor freight orbital that I had. Makita probably quiter and nicer. Makita can be dual action or orbital (Porter Cable 7424 is only dual action). I was surprised the porter cable was louder and vibrated more than the harbor freight. If I were to do it again +1 for Makita to be both dual action and orbital.

I got wool pad, 2 yellow foams and two white foams. I used micro fiber clothes to clean in between. I got one of the spin tools to clean dried material from the pad. This seemed to help a lot especially with compounding. Clean in a bucket so you can dump in garbage after.

I found that the wool did most of the work once I figured it out (watching you tube). Dont forget to tape off things you don't want compounded, window frame rub rail, lights, chromes, etc).

Listen when they say to spread compound over pad prior to starting. Start on the boat then lift 1/2 the pad off and work using "the edge" not flat. Start slow and build confidence with speed. I never passed setting 4.5 on porter cable (dual action) or 3 on the harbor freight(orbital), faster just dried the material up without cutting. Something I learned at the end was if material started to dry, just use a spray bottle with water to re-wet the compound area.


I would compound, polish, then see if wet sanding anything is required.

I found some uniqueness in my boat but still got a great gloss to come through!
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1988 Tristar 190 - Looking to upgrade to more family friendly boat....

Last edited by babymoore3; 06-13-2018 at 09:15 AM.
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  #14  
Old 06-13-2018, 04:31 PM
patricksimon patricksimon is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1983 Stars and Stripes 351
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I ordered the 3M products today! I don't think I've ever been so excited for a days worth of buffing in my life lol! I was a little confused as to which compound to order, because 3m makes a "marine rubbing compound" and a "super duty compound" you kind of mentioned them both in your original reply, so I just went with the "marine rubbing compound" (hope that was the right one).

I'm a little concerned that once I get the decals removed, and should I be lucky enough to get the red a consistent color across the whole side, how will I know where to position the decals? I figured I'd measure them and draw a diagram before removing the old ones, but didn't know if you had a better way.

The gelcoat looks to be in good condition, so I don't think it'll need to be wet sanded. Hopefully at least, as I've never done that and would hate to screw something up. I was interested to see if there was any way to touch up some deep scratches that I've found in the exterior, especially on the metal flake. Theres not many, but I'd like to fill them with some sort of touch up material if there is such a thing?
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  #15  
Old 06-13-2018, 04:33 PM
patricksimon patricksimon is offline
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I'm excited! I've owned several boats in my life, and I don't think I've ever been as eager to work on one! Thank you for the insight, it's greatly appreciated!
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  #16  
Old 06-13-2018, 04:36 PM
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FoggyNogginz FoggyNogginz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patricksimon View Post
I ordered the 3M products today! I don't think I've ever been so excited for a days worth of buffing in my life lol! I was a little confused as to which compound to order, because 3m makes a "marine rubbing compound" and a "super duty compound" you kind of mentioned them both in your original reply, so I just went with the "marine rubbing compound" (hope that was the right one).

I'm a little concerned that once I get the decals removed, and should I be lucky enough to get the red a consistent color across the whole side, how will I know where to position the decals? I figured I'd measure them and draw a diagram before removing the old ones, but didn't know if you had a better way.

The gelcoat looks to be in good condition, so I don't think it'll need to be wet sanded. Hopefully at least, as I've never done that and would hate to screw something up. I was interested to see if there was any way to touch up some deep scratches that I've found in the exterior, especially on the metal flake. Theres not many, but I'd like to fill them with some sort of touch up material if there is such a thing?
Here is the compound that you want: https://www.amazon.com/3M-05954-Supe.../dp/B000N9OE1E

If you ordered the wrong one, I would just send it back. Sorry for the confusion.

I would measure the decals from the rubrail and transom to know where to reposition. write this down somewhere and you'll be good to go.

As for filling deep scratches, I will have to defer to someone else on that. I went to a fiberglass shop the one time that I had that issue, and I can't tell you how to properly do this yourself.

Hope this helps.
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  #17  
Old 06-15-2018, 01:38 PM
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FOOTCLAN FOOTCLAN is offline
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Hey I just spent 2 years restoring mine and documenting every step with pictures, it's not an easy read it's 31 pages long but if you really wanna know what to do i suggest reading it and referring back to it so you don't have to ask every question you come across... Good luck! Feel free to hit me up with concerns..

Here's the link to my thread https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...ad.php?t=77371
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  #18  
Old 06-18-2018, 12:17 AM
patricksimon patricksimon is offline
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Boat: 1983 Stars and Stripes 351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoggyNogginz View Post
Here is the compound that you want: https://www.amazon.com/3M-05954-Supe.../dp/B000N9OE1E

If you ordered the wrong one, I would just send it back. Sorry for the confusion.

I would measure the decals from the rubrail and transom to know where to reposition. write this down somewhere and you'll be good to go.

As for filling deep scratches, I will have to defer to someone else on that. I went to a fiberglass shop the one time that I had that issue, and I can't tell you how to properly do this yourself.

Hope this helps.
Thanks a lot! I got all of the stuff in Saturday, so hopefully I can chisel away at this job this week. I came up with an idea that I'm going to try out for making stencils of the decals. I took a roll of parchment paper from my kitchen and taped it down the sides and outlined all of the decals. I'm going to cut them out and retape it to the side when I finish the buff job that way I get them placed in the same spot. I'll post some pics when I finish in case any of you guys reading this need an idea for stenciling the decals.
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  #19  
Old 06-18-2018, 12:18 AM
patricksimon patricksimon is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1983 Stars and Stripes 351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FOOTCLAN View Post
Hey I just spent 2 years restoring mine and documenting every step with pictures, it's not an easy read it's 31 pages long but if you really wanna know what to do i suggest reading it and referring back to it so you don't have to ask every question you come across... Good luck! Feel free to hit me up with concerns..

Here's the link to my thread https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...ad.php?t=77371
Thanks man, I read through the whole thing and will refer to it as I go along! Killer ride too btw.
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  #20  
Old 06-18-2018, 01:15 AM
patricksimon patricksimon is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1983 Stars and Stripes 351
Location: South
Posts: 13
Well, I got her pulled out this weekend and got a little work done. Got the swim platform cleaned and oiled. Oil change and a new fuel filter. Had both tires blow out on me while towing it back from Illinois, so threw 3 new ones on the trailer! It's not a lot, but it's a start!

Looks like I have a small oil leak somewhere in the engine compartment, but I think I may have found it at the base of the dip stick tube. Has anyone else had this issue?
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