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  #1  
Old 06-23-2018, 12:56 PM
ChiefTKE ChiefTKE is offline
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Boat: 2012 X55
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Squealing in cabin speakers when engine on

2012 X55 with stock clarion head unit and all JL speakers. When at dock and power just on, the radio plays through tower speakers and sounds great but no sound from the speakers in the boat interior. When engine is started, those interior speakers kick in but only have a high pitch squeal and no music. We are buying the boat from a friend and it has only 30 hours on it and he said soeaker worked fine last time out. We’re both racking our brains... Any clues?
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  #2  
Old 06-23-2018, 04:05 PM
MLA MLA is offline
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Sounds like there two major wiring issues. One creating a possible ground loop and the other being the amp does not come on unless the engine is running. Is this boat new to you or has the audio recently been worked on?
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  #3  
Old 06-24-2018, 07:43 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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I agree with MLA. So did this start happening when you first put the boat back in service this year?

Based on the symptoms it sounds like you've connected some of the battery cables incorrectly. Is this a stock stereo set up or one that has been modified with something like new or additional amps?

The idea that the amp that powers the interior isn't turning on when tower speakers are playing would indicate that the both sets of amps are not wired to the same circuit. My advice would be to go back and trace out the power for both amps and grounds.
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Old 07-06-2018, 08:15 PM
ChiefTKE ChiefTKE is offline
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Thanks MLA and bturner. I guess I need to get a stereo guy out there because this is probably above my level. This is a boat I bought from a friend who never used it. It is a 2012 and it had 26 hours on it. Everything worked before he put it in storage at then end of the 2016 boating season. He wasn't able to use it during 2017, so he decided to sell it. His storage company pulled it out of storage, charged it for us and things have just been squirrely since. When we put in the water for the first time, we got cylinder misfires and took it to dealership to clean all the injectors and drain all of the old gas. We pointed out the audio problem and they said there was a grounding block or something they needed to order for us, but they still don't have the part. This was all the original speakers/tower speakers that came with the boat. This also has the power tower on it. As for wiring, I would be lost, I was commenting to hope that it was something easy. Sounds like a stereo shop would be a better bet than the dealership service department.
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  #5  
Old 07-07-2018, 09:06 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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Not necessarily. If you do go to a stereo shop make sure you pick one that specializes in marine installations. Grounding is critical in boats as unlike most cars they're made of fiberglass and are more difficult to maintain a consistent, common ground potential. Bus bars and terminal blocks are used to connect all the electrical components which ensures all the components are attached to both common ground and positive voltage.

The previous owner of my boat had the stereo "upgraded" by a car stereo shop. It was probably one of the worst installations I had ever seen. They used automotive butt splices for the speaker wires and vampire taps to get power for the radio. They also used automotive copper wire instead of tinned copper wire and in line automotive fuses for the amps. The bottom line is that if you're going to get this repaired pay the shop the money to get it done professionally and get it done right the first time.
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Old 07-08-2018, 11:55 AM
ChiefTKE ChiefTKE is offline
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That is solid input. I did find a stereo company that has a "boat guy" that specializes in boat applications.
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  #7  
Old 07-16-2018, 10:17 PM
ChiefTKE ChiefTKE is offline
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Update: Had stereo guy come out and check on system to see what was happening. When removing all RCA's from the amp that controlled inside speakers, the squeal left. Opened up the head unit and he ran a patch RCA cable from the outputs for the tower speakers (that are working properly) to the amp for the inside speakers and all boat speakers came on and sounded perfect with no squeal. Switched tower to the ouputs that were going to inside speaker and the tower speakers then squealed. Started looking at head unit and the wires going into head unit were really bent and anytime you moved them you could get sound/lose sound. Determined it was the wiring into the head unit. Technician recommended a new head unit. Sound correct?

The only question I have is about what to do about the head unit. We would love to add bluetooth capability so that we don't have to hook the phone to usb all day. Technician said he would check with his clarion rep but recommended that before we go changing the head unit style, to check and make sure all the remote eyes would be the same. I guess so that the transom and LED screen controllers stayed. He also recommended staying clarion for the same connectors. I am fine with that. Has anyone upgraded to a different clarion and it worked without rewiring the remotes?

When it gets down to it, I could always get a bluetooth usb dongle to put in the usb while we were using the boat and that would be sufficient. Would your advice be to just put a new CMD6 in the boat?
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  #8  
Old 07-17-2018, 07:00 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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I upgraded to the M608 when they first came out. Very easy upgrade, it was basically remove 4 screws holding the head unit in, unplug the harness and RCA connectors then reverse the procedure.

There are however a couple differences in the units. The main connector is the same and is plug and pray. If I remember correctly there were more RCA outputs which allowed me to discretely run each channel to the amps. This worked well for me at the time as I upgraded my amps so that I have discrete amp channels going to each speaker. The factory set up wired the front and rear cabin speakers in parallel (the two right speaker were on one channel, the left two speakers were on another channel). I bought a JL 600/6 which allowed me to run the 4 cabin speakers each to a channel then bridged the 2 remaining channels for the sub.

The concern I'd still have with yours is the existing wiring. Did the stereo guy fix the wiring for you or just tell you to replace the head unit? If it were mine I would go buy some properly sized marine crimp connectors

(https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...BoCdqQQAvD_BwE)

Buy a good crimping tool and a heat gun (to seal the crimp connectors) and re-terminate all the wires one by one. Once completed neatly route and support the cables with velcro strips and or zip ties so the wiring doesn't dangle or bounce around. Not fun stuff as you'll end up laying on your back in a tight space doing all this at some point but if you do it right you won't have to do it again and everything will work correctly.
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  #9  
Old 07-17-2018, 10:58 AM
ChiefTKE ChiefTKE is offline
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Thanks. Again, good advice. He also mentioned trying to get a spacer that he would seal to try to give a little more room to remove the stress from those wiring harnesses. He also said he would work to zip tie and try to keep it from happening again.

It was harder to find the CMD8 than the CMD608, so I guess we are going to lose the CD and move to the bluetooth of the CMD608. I don't know the last time I used a CD.

Last question. I have the MW3 remote in transom which says it is compatible with the CMD608. Will I lose the Medallion touch screen at drivers seat or will that stay compatible? I assume that the 8 pin remote adapter out of back of HU has to use one of those remote Y connectors, so would that lead me to believe that both use the same and I'll retain the ability to control stereo from the Medallion touch screen?
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