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  #21  
Old 07-13-2018, 11:57 AM
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toolz toolz is offline
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Originally Posted by FrankSchwab View Post
Oh, and one other question....

I drained the ZF HSW-630 trans really well while it was out of the boat, and put 4 quarts of 15w-40 in it (spec is 4.5 quarts). I remember long ago that EngineNut said to measure the trans level by putting the dipstick back in WITHOUT screwing it down, then pulling and reading the level. When I do that, I see no oil on the dipstick. If I screw it down, the fluid level is at the lower line, which I interpret as half a quart low (exactly where it should be).

Any thoughts?
I have the same boat, with an LT1. My trans dipstick doesn't screw in. It pushes in, and the handle screw expands the rubber seal to secure it. Re-sealed my trans a year ago, and switched to motor oil also. Sure was easier to spot a leak with the red ATF. I check the level a lot more often now!
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  #22  
Old 07-13-2018, 09:21 PM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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Interesting - I would have guessed that, despite the engine differences you'd have exactly the same transmission. My dipstick screws in, but the documentation on whether or not to screw it in to measure the level is sadly lacking and often contradictory.

OK, I've got another. Today while driving back to the dock, I took the RPMs up to around 4000 - and the engine shut down for half-a-second, then picked back up like nothing had happened. Did it a couple more times, and noticed that around 4000 RPM, the voltage gauge takes a sudden jump up to 16+ volts, and when it jumps is when the engine shuts down. I'm leaving for Powell on Monday morning, so I'm ready to shotgun a fix here.
I'm guessing that:
1. the voltage regulator is shot, and at high RPMs it can't regulate.
2. With high voltage coming in, the ECU is shutting down to protect itself
3. a new alternator/regulator should resolve the issue.

Anyone agree?
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  #23  
Old 07-13-2018, 11:43 PM
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toolz toolz is offline
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That is odd that the dipsticks are different. Just topped up my transmission this evening, and the hole for the stick is smooth. I guess that takes away the question on how to check the level!

Can't help with the intermittent shut down. That's a strange one.
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  #24  
Old 07-14-2018, 06:36 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankSchwab View Post
Interesting - I would have guessed that, despite the engine differences you'd have exactly the same transmission. My dipstick screws in, but the documentation on whether or not to screw it in to measure the level is sadly lacking and often contradictory.

OK, I've got another. Today while driving back to the dock, I took the RPMs up to around 4000 - and the engine shut down for half-a-second, then picked back up like nothing had happened. Did it a couple more times, and noticed that around 4000 RPM, the voltage gauge takes a sudden jump up to 16+ volts, and when it jumps is when the engine shuts down. I'm leaving for Powell on Monday morning, so I'm ready to shotgun a fix here.
I'm guessing that:
1. the voltage regulator is shot, and at high RPMs it can't regulate.
2. With high voltage coming in, the ECU is shutting down to protect itself
3. a new alternator/regulator should resolve the issue.

Anyone agree?
The shotgun fix would be to check all of the grounds, make sure the battery terminals are clean & tight, the batteries don't have ANY problems and the ignition switch wires are clean & tight. Next, you can check the alternator but you won't find a shop that's open during the weekend and finding an exact replacement won't be easy before Monday.
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  #25  
Old 07-14-2018, 07:17 PM
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clrussell clrussell is offline
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Blown up engine. Or blew it up.

Pet peeve
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  #26  
Old 07-14-2018, 09:24 PM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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clrussell -
"Blowed up", as in "I blowed it up fer sure, just after I done told jim-bob to hold my beer and watch me". I agree with you formally, but phrased it in redneck for effect.

Thanks, Jimn. Battery terminals are good (pulled them when replacing the engine, fer sure), I rechecked the grounds, don't really have time to dig under the dash and look at the ignition switch (of course, if it still has a problem next week I'll have all week to do that...). Got a more-or-less kinda similar marine alternator from Amazon this afternoon, bolted it in and verified that it works. Don't really have a way to get up to 4000 RPM in the driveway without the neighbors coming after me, and I'm not convinced that doing so with no load would show the problem anyway. I didn't check if the problem would occur with the old alternator under no load (the alternator doesn't know about engine load, so if it didn't happen then it's not an alternator issue; but I'm not bolting the old one in to find out).
I guess I'm going with what I've got....
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