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  #21  
Old 09-10-2015, 02:10 PM
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ncsone ncsone is offline
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I just redid my MCX manifold due to the exact same problem. I ordered 1.125" x .125" aluminum discs from McMaster-Carr or some place similar. I then had the new plugs TIG welded over the top of the corroded-through plugs. While getting this done, I had the old paint sandblasted off, which left a nice texture on the surface of the manifolds. Once welded, I put on a base coat of primer, then a couple of coats of VHT Flat Red paint. I love the way it turned out.
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  #22  
Old 09-10-2015, 03:33 PM
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Make sure that you drain the water from the manifolds when the boat isn't going to be used for more than a couple of days. That will prevent the new plugs from being damaged by electrolysis which is what happened to the original plugs.
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  #23  
Old 09-10-2015, 03:46 PM
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Engine Nut - thanks for the advice - I try to drain them as I can, but have been burned by doing that one time, so I am kind of gun shy. I forgot to connect the aft 'water hose' connection on the L/R connection line and it flooded the boat before I could figure out where the water was coming from.

The original plugs lasted me ~425 of engine hours, and cost me ~$100 to fix, so I don't mind if I have to do it again in another 10 years or so.

-NCS
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  #24  
Old 11-13-2015, 03:38 PM
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Is the red primer?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ncsone View Post
I just redid my MCX manifold due to the exact same problem. I ordered 1.125" x .125" aluminum discs from McMaster-Carr or some place similar. I then had the new plugs TIG welded over the top of the corroded-through plugs. While getting this done, I had the old paint sandblasted off, which left a nice texture on the surface of the manifolds. Once welded, I put on a base coat of primer, then a couple of coats of VHT Flat Red paint. I love the way it turned out.
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  #25  
Old 11-13-2015, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Covi View Post
Is the red primer?
MCOCD in hyper drive mode?
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  #26  
Old 05-12-2016, 12:16 PM
Swordfish Swordfish is offline
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Casting plugs are your first choice. JB Weld marine is your second. Clean the area real good then
apply the JB Weld...Clean and paint gloss black. Casting plugs are avail from any INDMAR and or MC Dealer

[email protected]
So I have an 04 MCX and it appears the electrolysis is beginning to make its way through my caps.

Question..... does it matter which JB weld is used for the fix? (IE; Quick Set or regular)

I'd prefer using the quick set formula but I noticed it has a lot less strength but may be easier to work with since it has a shorter cure time and being applied vertically.

Does it make a difference?
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  #27  
Old 05-12-2016, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swordfish View Post
So I have an 04 MCX and it appears the electrolysis is beginning to make its way through my caps.

Question..... does it matter which JB weld is used for the fix? (IE; Quick Set or regular)

I'd prefer using the quick set formula but I noticed it has a lot less strength but may be easier to work with since it has a shorter cure time and being applied vertically.

Does it make a difference?
With a repair like this, that can be critical, I would go with the slow cure.
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  #28  
Old 05-12-2016, 12:59 PM
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+1 on slow cure...
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  #29  
Old 05-12-2016, 02:47 PM
woodrowskis woodrowskis is offline
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So is there any reason not to get rid of the dissimilar metal issue and replace the plugs with the same or similar metal as the manifold so the electrolysis does not occur? I understand using sacrificial anodes but those are usually built to be replaced without welding. I find it hard to believe these are supposed to be anodes. ( I see dots coming through on a 2002 model boat so a repair is coming.) If no reason not to to switch metals, does someone know what it is? Also, I saw no freeze plugs so are the plates thin enough to serve as freeze plugs and that is why they corrode through somewhat easily?
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  #30  
Old 05-12-2016, 03:25 PM
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It would still happen, just to the entire manifold instead of the casting plugs.
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