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  #21  
Old 10-03-2018, 02:18 PM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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Reviving a old thread here on trans filter. I'm going to help a friend change is fluid his this year. I have never pulled the filter on any of my vDrives mostly because I'm changing the fluid about every 50 hours and because the filter in my 07 is metal and I personally don't buy into the change a metal filter logic.

Based on what Repeat is showing the 2012 filter should again be a metal filter. Wondered if anyone else has changed one out and might have a picture/instructions should we decide to actually pull it. I really hate over doing maintenance for the heck of it. Sort of like pulling the stater off to grease the bendix every year. In my 30 plus years of boating I've never done this and have yet to experience a bendix failure.
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  #22  
Old 10-03-2018, 02:22 PM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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I think the only reason you would change the filter would be if you can see physical damage to it. Mine had a ton of gunk and debris in it that I cleaned out with paper towel, q tips, brake parts cleaner, and lots of air from my blower tool from air compressor. I took it out this past year and it still looks great but not near as much debris this time.

If you do need to change it and it similar to the pictures above, the filter just snaps into the top housing pretty easily.
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  #23  
Old 10-03-2018, 02:24 PM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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[quote=bturner2;1456581I have never pulled the filter on any of my vDrives mostly because I'm changing the fluid about every 50 hours and because the filter in my 07 is metal and I personally don't buy into the change a metal filter logic.
[/QUOTE]

I am a bit puzzled by this statement though. I would always recommend pulling the filter out to inspect and clean it if needed. It's also easiest to drain from this area with a suction device of course. It's not near as messy as using the actual drain port.
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  #24  
Old 10-03-2018, 03:59 PM
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  #25  
Old 10-03-2018, 05:53 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jharmon203 View Post
Ok thanks for clarifying that. Is it magnetic in there? That's about all I think that a metal filter could do as far as collecting debris.

Should it be cleaned at all with a change?
Metal filters can get extremely fine in terms of their filtration levels - see sintered bronze air filters for reference, very micro porous

Typically metal filters were cleaned by agitation in kerosene or similar, I myself have a small ultrasonic cleaning tank, so I take a zip loc baggie of solvent place the parts, seal it and cover it with plain water in the ultrasonic tank - keeps the yuck in a baggie I can dump into my oil.
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  #26  
Old 10-03-2018, 09:15 PM
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+1 on my MityVac I use the one that connects to my compressor.


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  #27  
Old 10-16-2018, 10:57 AM
Manny79 Manny79 is offline
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Couple additional tranny fluid change ?s

Hi, I bought an '04 Xstar this year and am doing the winterization/annual maintenance for the first time. I have the ZF Hurth v-drive transmission + 6.0L Vortec HO engine. Mastercraft manual shows ZF Hurth model as "G30V" but I saw another thread stating this is a known error and it should be 630V. I downloaded a ZF Hurth repair manual and it has the model as simply "63." Anyway, 2 questions:

1) Mastercraft manual states fluid can be sucked out of dipstick hole, but I'm not getting any fluid out this way. Fluid level on dipstick is between 2 lines, so I know there's fluid in there. Stuck my pump in a bucket of old oil and it's working fine. Do I need to suck out of filter hole or is there a better way to drain fluid?

2) ZF Hurth manual talks about 2 different kind of dipsticks (one that screws in with threads and one that doesn't have threads) and, in poor or broken grammar, seems to suggest that to check fluid level with a dipstick with threads you DON'T screw it in; Mastercraft manual says to put it all the way in. Obviously this would give a very different reading. I've attached screen shot from ZF Hurth manual. Which is correct?

Thanks!
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  #28  
Old 10-16-2018, 11:19 AM
jharmon203 jharmon203 is offline
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Manny,

As to your first question, have you warmed up the transmission fluid on the water first? I am not familar with using the dipstick hole, I would personally recommend the filter hole because you should be pulling the filter anyways to inspect and clean. Try that and see if you have better results.
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  #29  
Old 10-16-2018, 11:26 AM
Manny79 Manny79 is offline
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Thanks, jharmon. Yes, fluid was warm when I tried. I'll try removing filter tonight and see how it goes. I also contacted ZF Hurth support to get clarification screwing in dipstick vs. not and post their response. This would make a huge difference in the amount of fluid in the transmission.
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  #30  
Old 10-17-2018, 01:47 AM
david_ski david_ski is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88 PS190 View Post
This is what I have/use.

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-.../dp/B000JFJM14

I added a brass 90 degree ball valve to mine so that you can "charge" vacuum and then open it. It also reduces drips when getting into/out of the boat.

I had a small electric pump - but then you are discharging fluids into a different container, and I just found that very difficult to manage in a clean way inside our boats.
The ball valve is a good idea.

I use a similar vacuum fluid pump that is used for both engine oil and transmission fluid. It takes longer time to add new fluid than to drain either the engine oil or transmission fluid.

My current boats transmission has a baffle in the fill/dipstick with an opening that is just the size of the dipstick. Therefore I have to use one of the small diameter tubes on the vacuum pump to get down to the bottom of the transmission. Fully drains in less than a minute.

For engine oil, I made a fitting to attach to the suction tube to the oil drain hose on the oil pan. I can change oil in the time my the ski partner wipes down the hull after our ski sets while the boat is on the lift.
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