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  #41  
Old 10-02-2018, 08:21 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Originally Posted by salmonwa View Post
Is there any special tools required that I should look into purchasing? I bought a prop puller and I have the “normal” tools in my garage.

Or send it out to a prop shop that has tools, heat, and experience. Probably best to consider new.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 10-02-2018 at 08:42 PM.
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  #42  
Old 10-04-2018, 03:07 PM
salmonwa salmonwa is offline
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If my prop puller shows up before the weekend I will begin. Waterlogged I’m guessing my comment before was a little vague. I do most work on my cars, brakes, replaced entire suspension on VW, just new to the Mastercraft boat. I saw posts about using heat and ratchet straps to get the strut off, and maybe a guitar string.... will give it all a try.
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  #43  
Old 10-04-2018, 05:11 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Originally Posted by salmonwa View Post
If my prop puller shows up before the weekend I will begin. Waterlogged I’m guessing my comment before was a little vague. I do most work on my cars, brakes, replaced entire suspension on VW, just new to the Mastercraft boat. I saw posts about using heat and ratchet straps to get the strut off, and maybe a guitar string.... will give it all a try.
I have used a 1" wide wood chisel turned up side down with a few persuasive taps from a dead blow hammer between the base of the strut and the hull to remove the strut. Worked for me. Just sayin'.

.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 10-05-2018 at 06:16 AM.
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  #44  
Old 10-05-2018, 01:51 AM
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Fullpass Fullpass is offline
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Note: with ratchet straps, you are apply tension to the side of the strut mostly, from strut over to the trailer prop guard beam to the side of the trailer.



Best Results with Ratchet strap. Place a ratchet strap around the strut 3 or 4 wraps and to the trailer 3 or 4 wraps. ~ of course you have already removed the strut mounting bolts. Now you don't crank on the the ratchet until the strut pulls off. Just apply a moderate amount of tension to the straps. Hair dryer warm the strut near the base. I would not pry under the strut with anything...The "Trick" if the strut doesn't pop off with ratchet tension within a half hour...leave the ratchet with applied tension over night...100% the strut will be on the floor and off the bottom of the boat, next morning. You don't half to overly heat the strut...just evenly along the base. You can clean the old adhesive off the bottom of the boat with acetone and a microfiber rag, very slow, or you can buy a rubber wheel use to remove pin strips from car finishes...will clean up fast. Again you shouldn't half to pry, or use a guitar string, would be a lot of work trying to do that...Just tension with the ratchet straps will remove the strut, cleanly and keep the gel on the bottom of the boat in tact.

Last edited by Fullpass; 10-05-2018 at 02:11 AM.
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  #45  
Old 10-05-2018, 09:23 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by mtheut View Post
Hello All,

I'm in the process purchasing, what appears to be, a very well maintained 2001 Maristar 210. Upon inspection, I noticed that the prop shaft is not centered when exiting the hull and appears to be in contact with the lower part of the housing (for lack of better words). The shaft does not show signs of wear in this location which leads me to believe it might be out of alignment.

A friend told me it is likely a blown cutlass bearing. Any suggestions as to what might be causing this and whether it should be a major concern?
Look at the engine mounts for signs that it was moved- the gold-colored bars may have bands where you'll see the normal color and a definite line where slight corrosion is visible.
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