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  #1  
Old 02-24-2017, 11:05 PM
Maverick Maverick is offline
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Boat: 88 prostar 190 w/ 351
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The news everyone's waited for..

I finally got the boat running. It was the ignition module. Installed the new one, a bump of the key is fired up.. boat runs rough, but it's running. It runs like it's not firing on all 8.. pulled the plugs and some were burnt like they've been firing and some were brown like they only had fuel sprayed on them. Going to replace the plugs and hopefully let it ride.

I hope to start paint next week. Have some PPG polyurethane style paint and clear to throw on the boat and trailer.

Thanks for the help everyone!
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  #2  
Old 02-25-2017, 10:01 AM
EricB EricB is offline
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Boat: 77 S&S, 1983 S&& PS, and now a 98 Anniversary S&S LT1 PS
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Yea!!!! Thanks for letting us know that you found the problem.
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Old 03-01-2017, 11:21 AM
Maverick Maverick is offline
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Does having to re-time the boat after the new ignition module install sound right? Boat fires and runs, but runs rough. It won't really idle and just off idle it runs like it's not firing on all cylinders. Just installed new plugs, still the same and my plug wires are in order.
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Old 03-01-2017, 12:13 PM
EricB EricB is offline
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Electronic ignition is different than points. You normally would not need to retime if you replaced a module (as you would points), but since you don't know where the timing is at, I would suggest you put a timing light to it.
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  #5  
Old 03-01-2017, 12:35 PM
Maverick Maverick is offline
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Alright thanks
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  #6  
Old 03-05-2017, 09:06 PM
Maverick Maverick is offline
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Firing order is good.. removed the fuel/water separator, for maintenance reasons and well it was nasty. So I'm sure it's running rough because the fuel was bad. Put a new one on and it cleared up some but still ran rough. I believe now it's the carb again and it probably full of crap again. Need to just have it completely overhauled and gone through. That's just a hefty coin. Just an update
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  #7  
Old 03-06-2017, 12:25 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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You do need to verify timing after replacing the module. There may be as much as 2 or 3 degrees difference after replacing.
If you have. Blue reusable bowl gaskets, you could try removing fuel bowls and cleaning out needle & seat. I can talk you through it. Not very difficult.


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  #8  
Old 03-06-2017, 07:41 AM
Maverick Maverick is offline
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I'm going to verify the timing for sure. I just believe it's the carb being really dirty. That filter was discusting. To time it, I've been waiting for a non busy day at the ramp so I can't time it in the water, believe that's the correct way to do it for boats, not sure if it's the same for the inboards. But yes I've take the needle and seat out a couple times because of trash. Where would I get the gaskets from? Amazon? Napa?

For example, when I had the boat running it was probably around 2k Rpms, but rough.. if I backed off the throttle, down to neutral, it would act like it was going to die, so I'd pulse the throttle back up and it backfire through the carb pretty good.
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  #9  
Old 03-06-2017, 08:17 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick View Post
I'm going to verify the timing for sure. I just believe it's the carb being really dirty. That filter was discusting. To time it, I've been waiting for a non busy day at the ramp so I can't time it in the water, believe that's the correct way to do it for boats, not sure if it's the same for the inboards. But yes I've take the needle and seat out a couple times because of trash. Where would I get the gaskets from? Amazon? Napa?

For example, when I had the boat running it was probably around 2k Rpms, but rough.. if I backed off the throttle, down to neutral, it would act like it was going to die, so I'd pulse the throttle back up and it backfire through the carb pretty good.
You can set the timing running in your driveway with water connected. Nothing magical about it being in the lake.

Amazon is a sure bet for the gaskets. Napa will have them, the tough part can be finding a Napa employee who knows what they have and how to find it.

If you fuel/water filter is as bad as you say, sounds like you need a full cleaning. I do that for $249 including a genuine Holley marine rebuild kit, installation of Holley p/n 125-500 power valve protection update, base and spacer gasket and return shipping.
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COSTOM DECALS - EMAIL FOR MORE INFO

$125 LED TRAILER LIGHT PACKAGE - FREE SHIPPING
REBUILDING HOLLEY MARINE CARBS - $325 DELIVERED
REBUILT COMPLETE MARINE HOLLEY 4160 CARBS $495 DELIVERED
Email - [email protected]
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  #10  
Old 03-06-2017, 08:51 AM
MikeyOrange88 MikeyOrange88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick View Post
Firing order is good.. removed the fuel/water separator, for maintenance reasons and well it was nasty. So I'm sure it's running rough because the fuel was bad. Put a new one on and it cleared up some but still ran rough. I believe now it's the carb again and it probably full of crap again. Need to just have it completely overhauled and gone through. That's just a hefty coin. Just an update
There are several filters in the fuel delivery system that can become clogged. Starting at the fuel tank, there is a screen at bottom of pickup tube (also there is a checkball at the tank fitting, make sure it isn't stuck, gummed up, etc., fuel/water separator (you've addressed this), small filter at the bottom of the fuel pump (at least on the original pump), and the screen at the fuel line inlet to carb. You might run through all of those too. At least then if you address the carb, you can begin to narrow the problem down.
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