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Old 05-14-2018, 01:32 AM
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88falcon 88falcon is offline
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351 distributor

Ran my boat (88 351w) for the first time after rebuilding the carb , replaced points , condenser , rotor , cap , plugs , wires , coil . Fired great , ran down the lake great at WOT , putted around fine , shut it off for about 10-15 minutes, fired it back up, docked it , waited for the wife to get the trailer and when I went to start it back up , it struggled . Had to pin the throttle , boat fired , went to put it in neutral , and she died . Did that 2 or 3 times , wouldn't run below 1k rpms if I held it above 1k it ran good. So I held it there for a few minutes . Than it finally let me drop back to Idle (600 rpm. I took another run around the lake , everything seemed great .. Than I idled for about 5 minutes and it started running rough again until it died... same issue had to pin the throttle to start than keep it above 1k rpms.. got it home fired it on the trailer and at first it was acting the same as on the lake hard to start unless I held it above 1k , after about a minute I could drop it down and let it Idle . It than idled for about 15 minutes no problem at 600rpm .. today I started to check some things fired the boat (first crank ), checked dwell angle , timing , etc . Noticed my points resistance was bad and timing very slightly advanced . Went to adjust the timing and I noticed the distributor body was very hot... Than I tried to turn the distributor , with no luck it's seized to the block ... So after that lengthy explanation , could a bad distributor cause those symptoms ??

Thanks for any help in advance .

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Old 05-14-2018, 08:46 AM
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Sounds as if the carb is running rich at idle after engine warm up..not familiar the the adjustments on the an 88 351w or float level height. Others can Chime N
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:54 AM
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When I rebuilt the carb I set the floats parallel to the bowls. Any idea on a proper way to adjust the fuel / air screws ? The way I set them was....Before I removed them prior to rebuild , they were both 2 full rotations from being all the way in . When I put them back after rebuild , I returned them to that point. Than with a dwell meter attached , I adjusted one at a time .. I would turn it in until rpms on the dwell meter slightly increased , than backed it out until it would slightly decrease , than go about a 1/4 back in , kinda a happy medium (or I thought) did the same on both sides
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Sounds as if the carb is running rich at idle after engine warm up..not familiar the the adjustments on the an 88 351w or float level height. Others can Chime N
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Old 05-14-2018, 10:23 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Originally Posted by 88falcon View Post
When I rebuilt the carb I set the floats parallel to the bowls. Any idea on a proper way to adjust the fuel / air screws ? The way I set them was....Before I removed them prior to rebuild , they were both 2 full rotations from being all the way in . When I put them back after rebuild , I returned them to that point. Than with a dwell meter attached , I adjusted one at a time .. I would turn it in until rpms on the dwell meter slightly increased , than backed it out until it would slightly decrease , than go about a 1/4 back in , kinda a happy medium (or I thought) did the same on both sides

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You do sound rich. Set the idle mixture screws at 1.5 turns out and leave then there. 2 turns out is only necessary if you still have partially clogged idle passages.

I set the float level on both primary and secondary side slightly lower than level. It solves a lot of problems that way. You end up adjusting the end of the float farthest from the needle & seat to be a little higher than the end at the needle & seat (remember that you have the fuel bowl inverted).
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Old 05-14-2018, 10:40 AM
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Thanks guys I appreciate the advice , when I get back i will look in town I'll look into this
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Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
You do sound rich. Set the idle mixture screws at 1.5 turns out and leave then there. 2 turns out is only necessary if you still have partially clogged idle passages.

I set the float level on both primary and secondary side slightly lower than level. It solves a lot of problems that way. You end up adjusting the end of the float farthest from the needle & seat to be a little higher than the end at the needle & seat (remember that you have the fuel bowl inverted).
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Old 05-14-2018, 10:52 AM
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Thanks guys I appreciate the advice , when I get back in town I'll look into this..
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Thanks guys I appreciate the advice , when I get back i will look in town I'll look into this

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Old 05-14-2018, 10:58 PM
MikeyOrange88 MikeyOrange88 is offline
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Sounds like you know your way around the carb, but are your sure the electric choke is adjusted correctly and is not closed, or partially closed, once it is warmed up? After a couple of minutes with the key on, it should be fully open.
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Old 05-14-2018, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeyOrange88 View Post
Sounds like you know your way around the carb, but are your sure the electric choke is adjusted correctly and is not closed, or partially closed, once it is warmed up? After a couple of minutes with the key on, it should be fully open.
This was the first thing I checked it's working properly

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Old 05-19-2018, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
You do sound rich. Set the idle mixture screws at 1.5 turns out and leave then there. 2 turns out is only necessary if you still have partially clogged idle passages.

I set the float level on both primary and secondary side slightly lower than level. It solves a lot of problems that way. You end up adjusting the end of the float farthest from the needle & seat to be a little higher than the end at the needle & seat (remember that you have the fuel bowl inverted).
I lake tested the boat today , ran excellent , started a little hard , had to pump the throttle , once it fired i had to hold it at about 1k rpms for about 30 seconds before I could bring it down to Idle . However once it warmed up i could drop it down to idle immediately , but I still had to pump the throttle each time to start it ... other than that , the boat ran excellent no issues with it killing it self , no issues at idle ran great on top end . Should I adjust the fuel/air mix another half or quarter turn out to make starts easier ?

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Old 05-19-2018, 01:04 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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This may be a choke adjustment. On your next cold start, remove the flame arrestor, pimp the throttle once and donít return the throttle all the way back to neutral so you have some fast idle, and start it up. Time how long it takes for the choke to open fully. Should be roughly 90 seconds. If it seems like the engine doesnít want to run smoothly, manually open or close the whole blade to see what the engine wants to run better. To adjust the choke, loose the three screws holding the retaining ring and turn the choke cap accordingly. You may have to do this a time or two to get it right.
I would leave the mixture screws where they are.


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