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  #21  
Old 05-14-2018, 10:17 PM
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mtajpa mtajpa is offline
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Also when you get the fuel sample raise the bow of the boat as high as you can and water in the fuel tank will got to the rear of the tank where you will get your sample.
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  #22  
Old 05-14-2018, 10:25 PM
MikeyOrange88 MikeyOrange88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KansasCityWakeboard View Post
Just remembered something to consider, last weekend, boat ran great, but the raw water pump housing seal started leaking and spraying a light stream of water onto the distributer. Wonder if it getting wet started some corrosion, going to pull that cap and see. I believe this is the optispark ignition, which was notorious for having problems after power washing engines with it. Any feedback is appreciated. Feel like a dope for not keying on this right away, the 3700rpm max (then dropping) had me thinking fuel,
I believe I'd concentrate on correcting this issue first. Although my boat/year/engine is completely different than yours, I had a similar issue with the raw water pump seal leaking (pump housing actually broke the casting at the seal area). When idling it would just kind of drip, but once the rpm's increased, it would throw a constant loop of water up and onto the top of distributor and wires, and it ran like crap.

It certainly may all be in the fuel delivery, but I would eliminate this issue to help you narrow the problem down.
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  #23  
Old 05-14-2018, 11:09 PM
KansasCityWakeboard KansasCityWakeboard is offline
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Originally Posted by mtajpa View Post
The plugs don't look like they are fuel starved. Check some basic's first.

Siphon some fuel out into a clear glass container at least a gallon from the bottom of tank.
Do this through the fuel gauge sender. Or the fuel pump. Important to get to the BOTTOM of tank for a sample. If you see signs of water. Fix this first.

Check the throttle position. Is the venturi opening all the way with WOT position. Do this on the trailer engine off.

The fuel pressure for the LTR is appx 30-45 psi if I recall for the 1999 year.

Check at key on. should indicate 30 plus PSI will only be on for a second or two. Do this on the water or trailer.

Pressure should stay up after key is turned off. If not means there is a leak back at the pump in the tank. If it bleeds down slowly that's probably ok.

!!!!Pump will not stay on unless you are cranking or the engine is running.!!!!

Check again at idle should be steady at 30 plus PSI. Could be done using bucket or hose on trailer.

Check again at WOT. This would have to be done on the water. Pressure should be 30 plus and steady.

An electrical problem area is at the pump connectors. At the pump and in between the main harness. If these connections are getting hot then your pump may only be getting power intermittently.


These should help eliminate some of the basic's before throwing money at it.

Hope this helps.
Good info here, thanks a lot.

I pulled some fuel last night through the system, bottom of tank etc. There's no water in this gas, seen it before, this is clean gas.

The fuel test I did on the water showed no pressure with key on, and didnt' show any pressure until about ten seconds after idling, then started to show 5psi and built to 30 after idling out past no wake and doing some test runs. This was a huge red flag to me. I checked and removed the fuel filter and no change, then replaced the pump, no change. I'm guessing this is my problem, will rent another fuel pressure tester and check again, since the readings were so unusual. Figuring if it does this again, the only thing left is the fuel pressure regulator. (the fuel line flowed well when pulling gas out) Im hoping the napa FPR referred above will be a match, the pics of it look way different than mine.

Thanks for the feedback.

I pulled off the coil packs tonight and they looked clean. Tried to remove the silencer from the exhaust to check for coming apart, that thing doesn't want to come off. Tried to pull the upper intake mani, allen head bolt stripped. These drivetrains don't like coming apart.

Thanks for the help guys. Will be sure to update when I finally get it fixed

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  #24  
Old 05-14-2018, 11:36 PM
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mtajpa mtajpa is offline
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Fuel pressure should build up instantly. Double check the connections on the top of the pump and in the main harness. They are noted for being intermittent.

MO88 has a good point about the water spray on to the ignition system. You can get the pump seal at Ski Dim. Has to be a double lipped seal if you source it else where..
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  #25  
Old 05-15-2018, 01:18 AM
KansasCityWakeboard KansasCityWakeboard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtajpa View Post
Fuel pressure should build up instantly. Double check the connections on the top of the pump and in the main harness. They are noted for being intermittent.

MO88 has a good point about the water spray on to the ignition system. You can get the pump seal at Ski Dim. Has to be a double lipped seal if you source it else where..
So these connections get hot or something? I didn't notice anything unusual about the plug for the fuel pump, will look closely again when I retest fuel pressure.

Ski Dim has been tough to figure out, is there a way to search for a part diagram on there? I see the website mentioned many times on this forum, and have tried to explore that site, but the organization system has baffled me thus far.

I was about to buy a new impeller kit to get a new seal, is just the seal available on ski dim?

Hard to believe intermittent voltage to my pump would be the issue, boat ran very smooth at 3700 the first few outings, still idles very smooth, tho only getting to 2700 now. And the plugs don't look fuel starved, this has been whacky. Seemed like all the fuel related threads I found for this LTR were pumps not turning on.

If the exhaust was plugged up, there would be excess heat in the engine bay and components, right? Plugs electrodes would be white?

What would the plugs look like if it was starved for fuel? white again?

Wouldnt' a bad throttle position sensor throw a code, or cause random surging a la timing would bounce around?

Will retest fuel pressure tomo after work and post back here. Thanks again for everyones help

Seems I'm getting a crash course on the systems of this drivetrain, so hopefully I'll be ready for anything else that may arise, (no more big threads for me) and can help others on this forum. Thanks again
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  #26  
Old 05-16-2018, 12:17 AM
KansasCityWakeboard KansasCityWakeboard is offline
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Checked connections at the main harness, one pin was corroded pretty bad. Cleaned it up well and got about 10psi with key on, 20 after a few tries. Wondering if the fuel pressure regulator is bad or an injector or two is leaking badly. Went to pull the fuel rail, but one bolt stripped. Going to work on it again tomorrow. Probably throw $60 at it and replace the FPR.

I thought the FPR is the metal thing on top of the fuel pump, that connects the pump to the fuel hose. Whatever it is, does it get dirty? Is it just a manifold for the hoses to connect? Should I blow air through it?

Will work more on it tomorrow night

When I hit the key to on, that fuel pump just doesn't sound right, it's not loud like my chevy trucks. Any feedback here is apreciated. Edit: Gonna jump this pump with known good voltage and see what the fuel pressure says

Last edited by KansasCityWakeboard; 05-16-2018 at 12:28 AM.
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  #27  
Old 05-16-2018, 12:27 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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You should just here a pump wind up for 2 seconds on key up.

Bad pins on connections can cause l sorts of problems... check plug wire resistance

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  #28  
Old 05-16-2018, 09:13 PM
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mtajpa mtajpa is offline
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If you direct connect to the pump do both positive and negative. If the pressure is good then you may have a bad ground wire.

from the FP 101 thread is the fuel pressure regulator. Thanks to WhiskeyRiver.
https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...=25783&page=49
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  #29  
Old 05-17-2018, 12:05 AM
KansasCityWakeboard KansasCityWakeboard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtajpa View Post
If you direct connect to the pump do both positive and negative. If the pressure is good then you may have a bad ground wire.

from the FP 101 thread is the fuel pressure regulator. Thanks to WhiskeyRiver.
https://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk...=25783&page=49
Funny story^

Jumped the power wire, no change, put my stuff up, came inside, jammies on, read this ^, went back out and jumped them both and I now have 30psi instantly with the key on!!!

It actually took a few tries, like there's a bad connection somewhere. Drained the fuel tester and now it's instant to 30. Theres two ground wires to this pump, one green and one black. Curious, why two, and where do they link to ground? Going to chase the wires tomo. Forgot my first rule of electrical problems, always check grounds first. I feel like an idiot, tho very happy tonight, can't wait to push this engine and see what it'll turn

My javelin with the 150hp evinrude hits [email protected]

this craft gonna roar

I'll be at Captain Rons on LOTO weekend evenings, with this boat, if any of yall are around that 33 mile marker, post up, buy you a "pain in the ***" (rum runner and pina colada mixed)

Thank you all for the help

Curious if others have had a bad ground issue and how they overcame it, too.
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  #30  
Old 05-17-2018, 09:18 PM
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mtajpa mtajpa is offline
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Green wire goes to the fill inlet and actually should be removed. USCG warning about it somewhere on here.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=10679

The black is the actual ground to the pump follow it back to the engine block and you will probably find corrosion at the block connection.

I tow to LOTO each year about end of July hang out in the Gravious Arm usually for a couple of weeks.
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