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  #11  
Old 01-19-2017, 03:58 PM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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If you have 8-12v at the coil + with the key on/cranking then you should have spark. As a final check, look at voltage on the coil - while cranking, it should be opening and closing (swinging between gnd/0v and 8-12v). If it stays steady you are not breaking spark (i.e. your EI unit is broken). This is highly likely to be your issue.
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  #12  
Old 02-11-2017, 04:39 PM
Maverick Maverick is offline
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Alright well just an update.. disconnected the tach from the coil, still have no spark.. just to confirm, if my neutral safety switch is bad or grounded out, the motor won't turn over at all, correct?

I keep checking for spark by removing a plug, inserting it back into the wire and placing the gap on a head of a bolt on the engine, I still see no arching. The plug doesn't look soaked when I remove it either. To eliminate the plug being fouled out from fuel.

I had big plans for this boat, I have some interlux 2 part polyurethane white paint that I was going to recast the boat and trailer with and some interlux clear to recoat the flake for a hopefully better shine, the back of the boat is getting pretty faded. But all those plans haunted because the thing won't run.

Oh was going to rebuild my gunnels and make a custom rear bench.. all this during winter.. now it's starting to get nice out and I'm stuck in the drive
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  #13  
Old 02-11-2017, 07:41 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 02-14-2017 at 10:43 PM.
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  #14  
Old 02-12-2017, 09:51 PM
MikeyOrange88 MikeyOrange88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick View Post
The extra wire, the orange wire, was from when I had the ballast resistor in. Since I removed that I just tied the orange wire into the purple. I guess the orange wire only had one job, to bypass the resistor and allow full current to the coil? So do I just get rid of it completely?

Will the boat start with the wire unplugged? I tried putting it in different spots and still got no fire.
I've been following this thread waiting for the eureka moment, but it hasn't happened I take it?
I have an 88 Tristar w/ 351W w/ electronic ignition so I can only tell you how it is wired on mine. There is no orange wire on the coil. On mine both of the orange wires (smaller gauge) are tied onto one post of the ballast resistor. The distributor wires are purple to the BAT side of the coil and the black to the other. The purple choke wire also comes off the BAT side of coil, along with another purple wire. There is a gray (Tach) wire to the other side.
Not sure if that helps any. Let me know if any pictures would be of help to you.
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  #15  
Old 02-12-2017, 10:33 PM
Maverick Maverick is offline
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Yes, pictures are always nice. That's how it was hooked up before, but i removed the ballast resistor and tied the wires in together for the pos post on the coil, which is an orange, purple and red (from distributor). Got rid of the resistor because I've been informed I don't need it.

I have voltage at the fuse block and to the coil but not getting anything from the coil out.

The thought of a rewire job has crossed my mind numerous times. I'm about ready to go that route. Only thing that freaks me out about that is the mess behind the dash! Wow, that's a lot of spaghetti behind there.
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  #16  
Old 02-13-2017, 10:22 PM
MikeyOrange88 MikeyOrange88 is offline
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Photo of wiring-notice the two orange are tied to the same post of the ballast resistor, rendering it unused. The orange aren't tied to the distributor.Name:  P2131704.jpg
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Name:  P2131706.jpg
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  #17  
Old 02-13-2017, 10:27 PM
Maverick Maverick is offline
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Ok so then what should I do with my orange wire now? Get another resistor and tie it into the circuit? That's exactly how mine was setup, I believe, except there was another wire running from the other side of the resistor to the pos side of the coil. I assumed I could just tie it all in together. Or wait I'm not sure I had 2 tied in together on the same side like yours.. I'll have to look it back over and make sure I'm not missing anything.
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  #18  
Old 02-14-2017, 01:28 AM
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JMann JMann is offline
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Just a thought since you removed the dash and ALL wiring i'm sure that includes the kill switch. Have you tried bye passing that? Maybe when it was unhooked and re hooked up it got stuck or broken.

If I were me and it wasn't already done I would do that next and see if changes anything. You don't need it anyway, if you took a poll if everyone on here is a boat of that era I bet a majority of them have been by passed.
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  #19  
Old 02-14-2017, 11:07 AM
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kscrib kscrib is offline
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Is it possible you may have shorted out an in-line fuse during the dash removable process?
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  #20  
Old 02-14-2017, 12:14 PM
Maverick Maverick is offline
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Kill switch is already bypassed..

The fuses are possible, I don't know all the places where they would be, but I would like to check. It would be great if that were the problem.

The other weird thing is the terminals on my coil, they like a clip style, not a threaded post. Unsure as how I will permanently connect the wires. Don't know what connectors it needs. Like a snap style female connector is what I need. Right now I have my wires wire nutted together and gator clipped on.
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