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  #11  
Old 09-13-2018, 10:28 PM
rossi_the_heeler rossi_the_heeler is offline
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If it has an ect, pull the wires off of it. This should give the ecm a “default” value for motor temp. A few weeks back I had spark, fuel, and I couldn’t get it to start. Turns out my thermostat was too hot for my mefi to want to fire the engine. I’m only throwing stuff out there so it may be way off base, but it worked for me, and it’s pretty darn easy to check.
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  #12  
Old 09-17-2018, 03:20 PM
stanhastheplan stanhastheplan is offline
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If I pull the kill switch the spark that I see from the main coil goes away.
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  #13  
Old 09-17-2018, 03:23 PM
stanhastheplan stanhastheplan is offline
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When I unplug the kill switch the spark goes away from the coil, so I think its ok? But I've noticed something else I'm going to post below.
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  #14  
Old 09-17-2018, 03:24 PM
stanhastheplan stanhastheplan is offline
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Replying to Does it sputter? Only once in a while does it spit out the carb.
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  #15  
Old 09-17-2018, 03:42 PM
stanhastheplan stanhastheplan is offline
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Thanks for all the help guys, I hadn't receive any emails from this post so I thought I was being ignored. I decided to check back and WOW. I've got some things to check. But since I didn't see all of this yesterday while I was working on it, here's what I did find. I have no codes, NONE. All the mefi functions look normal, nothing is complaining. I have spark at the coil and SOMETIMES at the end of the wires pulled off the spark plugs. I watched how fast the distributor rotates, approx 1 rev/sec and would expect to see a spark every second, but I am not. Is that the way it should be? I checked 2, 4, and 6 and it's the same way. For the most part spark is not there, I only see it occasionally. I am using a spark tester which is a light with a ground wire.
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  #16  
Old 09-17-2018, 03:58 PM
Cumminscj Cumminscj is offline
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If you have checked your reference voltages, signal outputs, and grounds and everything is good but you still are no start then you need to go back to the basics and tell us what you have done to confirm that it is at TDC on the compression stroke. You said this was running prior to you putting a crate engine in so usually the easiest thing is going to be the right thing, and that points to you having the distributor 180 out.

Remember Spark can't really disappear unless the cap is cracked or the distributor shaft is wobbling.
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  #17  
Old 09-18-2018, 04:39 PM
stanhastheplan stanhastheplan is offline
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I have been short on time lately, so I havent checked reference voltage or ground to the distributor to make sure, I will do that. As far as setting TDC, here is how I did it. Turn the crank clockwise while facing the engine waterpump until intake valve #1 starts to open. This happens only once per 2 revolutions. When it starts to open I stop and usually turn it back slightly to line up the timing marks on the flywheel. Once timing marks are aligned, I drop the distributor in allowing for the 1/2" or so that it will turn as it aligns with the teeth. I have all cylinders labeled 1-8 on the distributor cap and wires to make sure I'm aligned with #1.

Anything is possible here, but I just don't think it's trying hard enough to fire. It only spits once in a great while, I would think it would be spitting and popping and doing crazy stuff if I had good fire and was 180 out.

Remember this is a new distributor from Oreillys, looks identical. Maybe it's got an issue. I have my old one and was going to ohm out and check voltages this evening hopefully. I could even swap it out just to confirm. The reason I replaced it was there is a lot of rust in it and white powder from condensation.
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  #18  
Old 09-19-2018, 09:57 PM
Cumminscj Cumminscj is offline
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It's 180 off. As the intake valve starts to open the Piston is going down and sucking in fuel/air mixture. The valve closes and the Piston comes up to the top of the stroke while compressing the mixture. When it hits the top of the stroke it ignites and the Piston goes down from the explosion, the exhaust valve opens and the Piston comes up to push the spent gases out.

In any case, you have the timing 180 out. Also the distributor may be completely wrong as gm used a variety of pick up could and IC modules over the years. Someone else could probably help you better on distributor compatibility.
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  #19  
Old 09-20-2018, 05:26 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanhastheplan View Post
I have been short on time lately, so I havent checked reference voltage or ground to the distributor to make sure, I will do that. As far as setting TDC, here is how I did it. Turn the crank clockwise while facing the engine waterpump until intake valve #1 starts to open. This happens only once per 2 revolutions. When it starts to open I stop and usually turn it back slightly to line up the timing marks on the flywheel. Once timing marks are aligned, I drop the distributor in allowing for the 1/2" or so that it will turn as it aligns with the teeth. I have all cylinders labeled 1-8 on the distributor cap and wires to make sure I'm aligned with #1.

Anything is possible here, but I just don't think it's trying hard enough to fire. It only spits once in a great while, I would think it would be spitting and popping and doing crazy stuff if I had good fire and was 180 out.

Remember this is a new distributor from Oreillys, looks identical. Maybe it's got an issue. I have my old one and was going to ohm out and check voltages this evening hopefully. I could even swap it out just to confirm. The reason I replaced it was there is a lot of rust in it and white powder from condensation.
Is it a marine distributor? They're made in a way that any arcing will not cause combustible gases to ignite but this would have no bearing on whether it runs, or not.

Remember- the crank rotates twice for every rotation of the distributor so make sure TDC is set after the #1 cylinder has built compression and the timing mark returns to 0 degrees.
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  #20  
Old 09-22-2018, 12:42 PM
stanhastheplan stanhastheplan is offline
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Running !!!!

It was 180 out of timing. Pulled distributor from where it sat and rotated it 180 and it started on first try!!! I went back through our timing setup later on and found that it's about another full turn after the intake valve closes before I felt pressure build up in cylinder number 1. Last time I did this I wast checking for compression in that cylinder. Once compression built up and the timing marks lined up (with continual CW rotation) the rotor lined up with cylinder #1.
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