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Old 09-09-2018, 04:30 PM
stanhastheplan stanhastheplan is offline
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Angry 2001 X-10 5.7 Cranks, won't start

I have an 01 X-10 that I just installed a new crate motor in and it will crank but won't start. I have spark going into distributor cap and out of cap at least on the one cylinder I checked. I hear the fuel pump run for 2 sec when I turn the key on and if I press the schrader valve fuel sprays out so I seem to have fuel. I think timing is dead on, but I have moved the distributor several degrees both ways of TDC and it didn't change anything even though I think it should be trying to start regardless. (Previous engine was running until a catastrophic oil leak emptied the engine of oil and at the same time all the gauges went dead. I have found a ground wire that was completely pulled out most likely by someones big foot under the dash. Now all the gauges work).

By the way this is Throttle Body Injection with a CEFI-3 ECM. I do not have a code reader to check for codes. Thinking I might need one.

I can see a nice spray pattern from the TBI injectors spraying into the throttle body. Of course the flaps are closed at idle. Wondering how fuel gets passed them for it to start. The only way they open is at full throttle which I understand is a way to clear flooding.

I unplugged the throttle position sensor and still no luck. I noted that with the safety switch unplugged I have no spark so I think the safety is working ok.

And ideas are appreciated!!!
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Old 09-09-2018, 04:48 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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Kill switch or coil would be guesses.
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Old 09-09-2018, 05:28 PM
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Randal03r1 Randal03r1 is offline
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Pull air filter and use starting fluid, if fires my guess is fuel pump.
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:57 AM
skymonkey skymonkey is offline
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Does it sputter at all?


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Old 09-10-2018, 11:49 AM
curver900 curver900 is offline
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so it isn't the kill switch,
it isn't the fuel if it spraying from the throttle body
you have spark
you have air
you have gas
do you need to reprogram the ECM?
have you tried opening the throttle (push in button and push forward)
are you sure the firing order is correct? did you get those plug wires in right from the distributor?
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Old 09-10-2018, 12:17 PM
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Fullpass Fullpass is offline
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possible timing is out 180 degree ~ cam even though piston is at the top

Can happen on new motor install, This is from the net to help explain and fix or check if its the problem:

The words you want to remember while setting the timing is top dead center ready to fire.You want both valves closed.They make a tool that inserts in the spark plug hole that whistles as you rotate the crank to alert you that both valves are closed.Or put your thumb on it and feel the pressure.You want to be TDC on the compression stroke which is 180 degrees opposite of TDC of the exhaust stroke.Both TDC will read 0 on the crank timing ring. The 180 degrees refers to the camshaft position relative to the crankshaft.the camshaft is turning at 1/2 the crank speed.Think of it as TDC for the crank is always with the piston at the top of the cylinder but the camshaft can be 1/2 a rotation out of position(180degrees) By rotating the crank 1 full revolution you will rotate the cam 1/2 a revolution .Hope this clears it up.

So to recap, might half to pull the distributor, rotate the crank until you feel the compression stroke piston to the top or with valve cover off look for both valves to be in the closed position, timing marks line up, drop the distributor back in, distributor rotor at Number 1 position, set timing. You might have accidentally set timing up on the exhaust stroke...with the piston at the top, all marks line up but no fire...maybe a sputter.
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Old 09-10-2018, 01:11 PM
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mastercraftka mastercraftka is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fullpass View Post
possible timing is out 180 degree ~ cam even though piston is at the top

Can happen on new motor install, This is from the net to help explain and fix or check if its the problem:

The words you want to remember while setting the timing is top dead center ready to fire.You want both valves closed.They make a tool that inserts in the spark plug hole that whistles as you rotate the crank to alert you that both valves are closed.Or put your thumb on it and feel the pressure.You want to be TDC on the compression stroke which is 180 degrees opposite of TDC of the exhaust stroke.Both TDC will read 0 on the crank timing ring. The 180 degrees refers to the camshaft position relative to the crankshaft.the camshaft is turning at 1/2 the crank speed.Think of it as TDC for the crank is always with the piston at the top of the cylinder but the camshaft can be 1/2 a rotation out of position(180degrees) By rotating the crank 1 full revolution you will rotate the cam 1/2 a revolution .Hope this clears it up.

So to recap, might half to pull the distributor, rotate the crank until you feel the compression stroke piston to the top or with valve cover off look for both valves to be in the closed position, timing marks line up, drop the distributor back in, distributor rotor at Number 1 position, set timing. You might have accidentally set timing up on the exhaust stroke...with the piston at the top, all marks line up but no fire...maybe a sputter.
This is a very good description of how to set the timing and TDC. You always want to double confirm that the timing is correct. If it trully is then you must not be getting spark to the cylinders.

I didn't see in your description if it sputtered or anything? Just a crank with never a sputter?? if not then I am inclined as some have said that you have a kill switch still engaged or you have other spark problems. I have had engines not be timed correctly and they still try to start or backfire most of the time.
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Old 09-11-2018, 08:59 AM
Cumminscj Cumminscj is offline
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If you see the injectors spraying fuel during cranking and you have spark then you have the timing 180 off. Pull it while at TDC and rotate the rotor 180 degrees.

It is unlikely it could be or would be the lanyard\kill switch as that disables the fuel pump and gauges so you would be missing those during cranking and of course you would not have fuel pressure.
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Old 09-13-2018, 04:33 PM
scustoms scustoms is offline
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Same exact issue a month ago 2001 X-10 LTR (I don't have a distributor.) Crate motor, fuel pressure was good, had spark but the "timing of the spark was off"

Turned out it had a LT1 Trigger wheel which is 180* degrees off of the LTR trigger wheel only way to tell was to pull the trigger wheel and look at the keyway. They are the same pattern but 180 degrees off in reference to the keyway.

Two LTR trigger wheels on the right and the LT1 trigger wheel on the left.
https://photos.google.com/u/1/photo/...043929hEJiN78Y

Also after replacing the trigger wheel it still wouldn't start due to being flooded. Removed/cleaned the plugs and it started.
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  #10  
Old 09-13-2018, 04:59 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanhastheplan View Post
I have an 01 X-10 that I just installed a new crate motor in and it will crank but won't start. I have spark going into distributor cap and out of cap at least on the one cylinder I checked. I hear the fuel pump run for 2 sec when I turn the key on and if I press the schrader valve fuel sprays out so I seem to have fuel. I think timing is dead on, but I have moved the distributor several degrees both ways of TDC and it didn't change anything even though I think it should be trying to start regardless. (Previous engine was running until a catastrophic oil leak emptied the engine of oil and at the same time all the gauges went dead. I have found a ground wire that was completely pulled out most likely by someones big foot under the dash. Now all the gauges work).

By the way this is Throttle Body Injection with a CEFI-3 ECM. I do not have a code reader to check for codes. Thinking I might need one.

I can see a nice spray pattern from the TBI injectors spraying into the throttle body. Of course the flaps are closed at idle. Wondering how fuel gets passed them for it to start. The only way they open is at full throttle which I understand is a way to clear flooding.

I unplugged the throttle position sensor and still no luck. I noted that with the safety switch unplugged I have no spark so I think the safety is working ok.

And ideas are appreciated!!!
You don't need a code reader- make sure the MIL works and use a paper clip in terminals A and B on the ALDL.

Stop flooding the engine. If you pull the fuel pump fuse, you won't dump a ton of gas into the cylinders, exhaust and crankcase. The TPS won't keep it from firing.

You can't 'think timing is dead on' and expect it to run- it's either correct, or it isn't. Verify TDC, then put it in Diagnostic Mode and set it to 10 degrees BTDC. If the timing is wrong, it will backfire a lot.

Did you mess with the idle stop on the throttle body? If not, DON'T. If you did, you'll need to set it up again, according to spec. If the throttle plates have a small hole in each, that and the IAC is how it gets air for idle. Speaking of IAC, make sure the harness with two blue wires and two green wires is con't connected to the distributor- if it is, that's your problem.
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