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  #21  
Old 01-01-2017, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Fullpass View Post
Strut Install...thats The Tricky Part
I'll probably be back if needed 👍
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  #22  
Old 01-01-2017, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Fullpass View Post
Mike,

Removing the two bottom lower bolts on the transmission...the transmission weight might be binding the lower two bolts, if you have all the other bolts removed. replace/install all the upper bolts, just snug...work on loosening the bottom two lower bolts...get them loose, then remove...take the bolts out from bottom to top.
That came to mind so I did do that but ran out of time and space to keep working on the lower bolts with what I had with me. I know it is a 5/8" bolt head but is there a trick or particular tool that will help on the lower bolts.
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  #23  
Old 01-01-2017, 10:43 AM
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Of Course I had the motor out when upgrading the damper plate to a GM heavy duty damper...which you might want to do also....

Is this the bolt pattern you have on your motor/transmission? This is a 5.7 GM block pattern

Motor is now back in the boat...but will go out and look...to see what tool might be needed to help you out...today sometime.
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  #24  
Old 01-01-2017, 10:52 AM
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Looks like mine too as I do have a 5.7 also.
I was not going to pull the bell housing off though and it looks like you did here?

Last edited by Coach Mike; 01-01-2017 at 10:56 AM. Reason: Added a comment
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  #25  
Old 01-01-2017, 05:40 PM
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Yes, pulled bell with trans....

Yes the bolts you are trying to loosen are hard to get at when trying to separate from the bell...hence why removed as unit. I'm sure the nuts, bolts, studs on the trans..have Loctite on them...maybe just a little heat to the bolts to soften the Loctite..not a lot 300 F should do it.

Option 2 ~ Can remove trans/bell as unit...nice to have options
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  #26  
Old 01-01-2017, 05:53 PM
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if your pulling the trans - change out the damper plate.. don't forget when time for assembly not to force bell housing to block with bolts.. read a few posts here and on FB groups of bell housing breakage..
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  #27  
Old 01-02-2017, 04:54 PM
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Spent some more time today and total success. Started to try to get to the bottom bolts on the trans and saw that there was no way to really get in there. Went to Option 2 and pulled all the bolts from the bell housing. That went well, but the back of the BH has a guard/plate held on with two small bolts at the bottom which was causing it to hang up on the flywheel at the bottom when I'd try to pull it back out. Got those off and was able to pull the trans out okay after that.

Further, I got all the nuts off the screws for the strut, then worked the screws out from the bottom, and the strut came loose with no hitches. It is bent to the left, so I need to replace it for sure - I don't know if they can be straightened, but likely best to replace it. Surprised that the bearings are in good shape with no sign of wear and the shaft looks good there too. SkiDim has it for $349, less 10%, plus shipping and waiting to hear back from OJ still on their cost. Any other options for better pricing?

I also removed the damper plate and it really looks to be fine - is there something that I should be looking for besides the obvious? Loose springs, cracks, broken teeth, etc.?

I also will replace the packing seals (rope packing) on the existing shaft gland system - need to watch costs on stuff with Christmas bills coming in and never really saw any issues with that area leaking.

In general, I think the leaking trans fluid is likely from the bend strut putting off centered excessive pressure on the trans seal. I need to get a large socket to pull the coupler off to get the shaft out and confirm straightness and any other potential issues with it too. I'll replace both seals on the trans to be sure it doesn't have more issues there too. Can the trans be pressure tested for leaks on the bench before I put it back? Might be a dumb question, but want to be sure it is sealed up before putting everything back again and lining up the engine.

There was never any noise or vibration or tracking issues with any of this running this past summer - just the fluid leaking into the bilge.

Thanks again for all the support along the way here. Great satisfaction getting into this with good initial results. Plus it gives me time on the boat during the cold weather

Last edited by Coach Mike; 01-02-2017 at 05:17 PM.
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  #28  
Old 01-02-2017, 05:23 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Originally Posted by Coach Mike View Post
Spent some more time today and total success. Started to try to get to the bottom bolts on the trans and saw that there was no way to really get in there. Went to Option 2 and pulled all the bolts from the bell housing. That went well, but the back of the BH has a guard/plate held on with two small bolts at the bottom which was causing it to hang up on the flywheel at the bottom when I'd try to pull it back out. Got those off and was able to pull the trans out okay after that.

Further, I got all the nuts off the screws for the strut, then worked the screws out from the bottom, and the strut came loose with no hitches. It is bent to the left, so I need to replace it for sure - I don't know if they can be straightened, but likely best to replace it. Surprised that the bearings are in good shape with no sign of wear and the shaft looks good there too. SkiDim has it for $349, less 10%, plus shipping and waiting to hear back from OJ still on their cost. Any other options for better pricing?

I also removed the damper plate and it really looks to be fine - is there something that I should be looking for besides the obvious? Loose springs, cracks, broken teeth, etc.?

I also will replace the packing seals (rope packing) on the existing shaft gland system - need to watch costs on stuff with Christmas bills coming in and never really saw any issues with that area leaking.

In general, I think the leaking trans fluid is likely from the bend strut putting off centered excessive pressure on the trans seal. I need to get a large socket to pull the coupler off to get the shaft out and confirm straightness and any other potential issues with it too. I'll replace both seals on the trans to be sure it doesn't have more issues there too. Can the trans be pressure tested for leaks on the bench before I put it back? Might be a dumb question, but want to be sure it is sealed up before putting everything back again and lining up the engine.

There was never any noise or vibration or tracking issues with any of this running this past summer - just the fluid leaking into the bilge.

Thanks again for all the support along the way here. Great satisfaction getting into this with good initial results. Plus it gives me time on the boat during the cold weather
Good deal. You're getting to the fun part. As far as I know, there is no pressure test. My only encouragement is to replace the shaft packing gland with a drip-less system. There is no better time and it is minimal cost looking at the bigger picture on down the road. If you decide to stick with packing rings, use the GFO Gore-Tex product.

I'd do the damper plate just because it is accessible now. Your call



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  #29  
Old 01-02-2017, 06:07 PM
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Did your strut have the 6 holes in it or 8...If it had 6...would have a line on a New Strut for you, again maybe half price.

Would look on your oil pan for any streaks of oil coming down the back side of oil pan, maybe from the rear main oil seal, common for a 5.7 one piece oil seal to leak...could even put a paper towel under the engine on the engine compartments floor to see if anything is dripping.

Would buy a cheap tap and die set...harbor freight...chase out all bolt threads, clean bolts, at least use BLUE Loctite when putting bolts back in with clean, degreased, chased bolt threads, for block, bell, damper plate bolts, and torque to spec
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  #30  
Old 01-02-2017, 07:52 PM
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I'll post some pics tomorrow for sure.

Strut has 8 holes.

I can take a closer look at the rear engine seal next time I get over there. I also have access to taps and will chase all the threads to start fresh and clean. I did loosely place all bolts back in original holes to keeps things somewhat together when I put it all back together.

I also agree that now is the best time to put new stuff in where I can afford to ...
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