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  #21  
Old 08-17-2018, 01:19 PM
Rebel Skier Rebel Skier is offline
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Genuine sherwood impeller, not after market. Get if from skidim.com

You can download your pcm manual in the reference section over at correctcraftfan.com

Good reading there.

Remove the lag bolt and pour cpes in there. Rotdoctor is a great option, but do not know how much your stringer will take so it may be necessary at this point to buy that much. You can get a can of minwax wood hardener at your local home depot -- is is cpes, and see how much it will absorb.

The only negative about sending your carb in before starting it is delaying hearing it purr.

I bet it will start up and run with the current wires.
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  #22  
Old 08-17-2018, 02:02 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is online now
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I'd probably pull that intake manifold and clean out out, see some rust in there, I'd probably remove it and blow it out, sand what you can access lightly and wash it out. Then reinstall, I don't like seeing junk in there and that'd let you make sure nothing is by the valves.
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  #23  
Old 08-18-2018, 09:00 PM
Franzwa99 Franzwa99 is offline
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Well Iíve to greeting back together, but not getting spark. I checked this by pulling one of the plugs and setting it on the block connected to the wire and cranked it over. I tried this with a couple plugs. I have not changed the wires yet as I cannot find a shop that can get me what I need. Does any one have a part number for plug wires I can use?
Aside from the wires, what else should I check for? I am hoping I donít need a new distributor or coil, but will get them if I need. Any suggestions?
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  #24  
Old 08-18-2018, 09:16 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franzwa99 View Post
Well Iíve to greeting back together, but not getting spark. I checked this by pulling one of the plugs and setting it on the block connected to the wire and cranked it over. I tried this with a couple plugs. I have not changed the wires yet as I cannot find a shop that can get me what I need. Does any one have a part number for plug wires I can use?
Aside from the wires, what else should I check for? I am hoping I donít need a new distributor or coil, but will get them if I need. Any suggestions?
[A better choice of words]; it is not recommended by the manufacturer to use ||You cannot use|| solid core wires if you have electronic ignition.

I like 8MM spiral core wires for the small block Ford 351. Make sure you verify the wire set is made to fit the longest reach from the distributor to the far back plug.

You can choose straight boots or angled boots for the plugs. I like the straight.

Use these as a reference. ==> Summit Racing or these.

Spark originates at the coil through the coil wire to the distributor. A cracked distributor cap is not good. You may need a new rotor cap, check the advanced springs in the bottom of the distributor. A bad ground wire to the coil....etc... Several possibilities here and there.

Patience and track it down one thing at a time.

Did I mention patience?

I will also suggest a new coil: Per Tronix Flamethrower II (for electronic ignition) or Flamethrower I (for points and ballast resistor); epoxy filled / 0.6 ohm.

.

Last edited by waterlogged882; 08-19-2018 at 04:38 AM.
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  #25  
Old 08-18-2018, 09:26 PM
tommurtha tommurtha is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
You cannot use solid core wires if you have electronic ignition. .
Really?????? I swear my brother used uses them on his with an electronic. By solid I mean solid multi stands of wire. Is that what you mean?

Why do you believe solids are not usable?
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  #26  
Old 08-18-2018, 09:38 PM
Franzwa99 Franzwa99 is offline
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Here are some pics of what I have going on. Not sure how to tell if I have an electronic ignition?
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  #27  
Old 08-18-2018, 09:43 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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The photograph of the distributor shows you have a set of points in the distributor. You do not have an electronic ignition module.

The inside of the dist. cap looks to have a crack at abut the 3:00 o'clock position.

The tip of the rotor button does not look scored which is OK. The rotor button looks that it may need cleaning or replacing.

The one plug on the inside of the cap looks bad.

Do not lose track of the wires and their position on the cap for the proper firing order.

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  #28  
Old 08-18-2018, 09:51 PM
Franzwa99 Franzwa99 is offline
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Not seeing the crack. Here are a few more closeups. There was a small plastic hair in there that may have been it.
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  #29  
Old 08-18-2018, 09:53 PM
Franzwa99 Franzwa99 is offline
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Didnít attach the first time
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  #30  
Old 08-18-2018, 10:00 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Distributor cap looks good. That was the crack I saw...the plastic twig.....

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