Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Restorations and Refurbishments

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 05-28-2017, 08:34 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 49
on that last picture you can see the rusty flywheel on the left, but on the right you will see a white garden hose going to the block with a hose clamp, does anyone got any idea what this hose is for? it has what looks like a garden sprayer attachment on the other end, I just don't get it lol!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 05-28-2017, 09:22 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 93 190
Location: lake
Posts: 12,360
Quote:
Originally Posted by jieiku View Post
on that last picture you can see the rusty flywheel on the left, but on the right you will see a white garden hose going to the block with a hose clamp, does anyone got any idea what this hose is for? it has what looks like a garden sprayer attachment on the other end, I just don't get it lol!
My guess (and easy effective method that I use) is that white hose with the spigot is a water hose to run the engine in the driveway or parking area. Pull the boat's water hose from the top of the heat exchanger and run the water directly into the exchanger right on into the raw water pump hose. I have ran many of them this way.

That is not a piece of OEM equipment...

.
__________________
John 14:6
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 05-28-2017, 11:02 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 49
my guess would have been to fill up a ballast or sac, but not sure if the water from that part of the engine would be hot or cold, or if using water from there could possibly starve the engine, I would assume if you were at idle and regulated how much water you pulled from there that it would be ok, but I really got no idea.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 05-29-2017, 02:14 PM
Bouyhead's Avatar
Bouyhead Bouyhead is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Boat: 2008 22' Progression
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,613
How high was the water in the bilge? Check your trans for water intrusion and get a good look at the bottom of your oil pan with a mirror. Might want to poke around with a pick if you find any significant areas with rust. To bad your on the other coast, I parted out an 84 skier 19 and have a couple of milk crates with spare parts. Got a bunch of new stuff in boxes too.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 05-29-2017, 02:32 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 49
The bilge looked nearly full, although the boat was at an angle, it was mostly the back that was full (by the transmission).

I got a rebuilt marine starter ordered. At this points I have only purchased parts that allow me to safely try starting the motor and check its condition: raw water pump rebuild parts, impeller, fuel filter kit, and the starter.

I have a list of other parts I will likely need to replace, but I will wait until checking out the motor.

Just to look at the transmission it looks ok, but I guess I need to drain the fluid in it and see how it looks, and put some new fluid.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 05-29-2017, 02:37 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 93 190
Location: lake
Posts: 12,360
Quote:
Originally Posted by jieiku View Post
The bilge looked nearly full, although the boat was at an angle, it was mostly the back that was full (by the transmission).

I got a rebuilt marine starter ordered. At this points I have only purchased parts that allow me to safely try starting the motor and check its condition: raw water pump rebuild parts, impeller, fuel filter kit, and the starter.

I have a list of other parts I will likely need to replace, but I will wait until checking out the motor.

Just to look at the transmission it looks ok, but I guess I need to drain the fluid in it and see how it looks, and put some new fluid.
You will need a pump of some sort to extract the transmission fluid. I don't think the Velvet Drive transmission has a drain plug.

If you want to run it in the parked area, you can use a hose like was discussed. Previously I was thinking that was a photo from the previous owner where a hose was just laid off over in there. I didn't realize it was part of a jury-rigged gadget as part of the boat at this time. It darn sure wasn't for washing the carpet....

Be aware of cracks in the heads / block / risers from no winterization, etc.

Those Windsor engines are tough as nails...

.
__________________
John 14:6
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 05-29-2017, 02:45 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
I didn't realize it was part of a jury-rigged gadget as part of the boat at this time. It darn sure wasn't for washing the carpet....
LOL! carpet washing hose! yeah I am hoping to get lucky and have a good engine here.... but if not I will pull the motor and rebuild/replace whats needed.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 05-29-2017, 04:39 PM
gweaver gweaver is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Boat: 2003 VRS 230 w/X-boat package, 8.1L
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,345
For an alternator, check out DB Electrical. They remanufacture starters/alternators and other electrical components. They have marine stuff too- I bought a redone alternator for my 88, cost me about $120, which was far below any other prices I could find.
G
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 05-29-2017, 07:00 PM
jieiku jieiku is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: May 2017
Boat: 1986 Mastercraft Skier P-S 351w
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 49
Bouyhead: I checked the oil pan and the paint on it seems to have completely protected it, not a hint of rust on the oil pan anywhere.

waterlogged882: I took a flashlight and looked over the visible parts of the block and heads, no visible cracks and all the freeze plugs look to be in perfect shape. What are the "risers" you speak of?

gweaver: COOL! DB Electrical is who I purchased the starter from, I will do the same with the alternator.

so I am just trying to stay busy familiarizing myself with the boat and writing down part #s, and cleaning things up while I wait for the starter and impeller to arrive.

I took my distributor cap off, the contacts on the cap and rotor actually look pretty good, and the points dont look worn, only like they need cleaned.

I read that if you have points, then you will also have a resistor for your coil. I have a volt/ammeter to test with. I would like to find the procedure and values to test my coil and the resistor, I found the resistor under the plastic cover, its a white brick shape, the starter relay and a 40amp breaker were also under this cover.

One thing I noticed, DB Electrical has an alternator that should bolt right on, but it puts out 60amps at idle and about 100 amps at 2,000 rpm. I am guessing that 40amp breaker on my engine has to do with the alternator, and that if I get the larger alternator I will also need a larger breaker?

Also, in a car/truck you have a breaker box protecting your wires from short or over voltage... is this 40amp breaker the only thing in the boat? and if I need to get a breaker larger than 40amp, what size should I get? and will my wires still be protected?

As far as I can tell my parts manual does not list the part numbers for that resistor, or the coil.

Last edited by jieiku; 05-29-2017 at 07:23 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 05-29-2017, 07:33 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 93 190
Location: lake
Posts: 12,360
Quote:
Originally Posted by jieiku View Post
waterlogged882: I took a flashlight and looked over the visible parts of the block and heads, no visible cracks and all the freeze plugs look to be in perfect shape. What are the "risers" you speak of?
There is a fuse panel under the dash.

The riser(s) are on the top of the exhaust manifold where the exhaust hoses come down to the muffler. I take back that part of looking for cracks in the risers. Usually the cracks at the exhaust manifold are where the drain plugs (under the riser(s)) were not removed and water remained in that low spot.

Heads can crack about as quick as anything. A visual inspection is one way but to be 100% certain, another nondestructive test is a magnetic particle test. Any machine shop should have a mag prod and a bottle of powder to check the heads. No huge deal at this point but certainly a possibility.

Here is a photograph of a crack in a head (using green magnetic particle powder). It happens...

.
Attached Images
   
__________________
John 14:6
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1986, power slot, powerslot, rescue, skier

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:37 PM.


2018