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Old 09-16-2018, 04:07 PM
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Miss Rita Miss Rita is online now
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Engine just quit

I was idling along yesterday, gave it some gas, and the engine just quit without warning. No amount of different restarting techniques helped. It was running just find prior to that, no hint of a problem. I can pump the throttle and see gas in the carb. It would has a new coil and cap and rotor. The carb has been looked over. I figure itís electrical, maybe the distributor?



Thoughts?
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Old 09-16-2018, 04:48 PM
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Check the kill switch and make sure it's pushing the prong in all the way.

Fail that then,

Check for spark first thing. Pull a plug and hook it back to the plug wire and then ground it out some bare metal and see if you get spark.
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Old 09-16-2018, 05:50 PM
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Yup... go basics... check fuses... ballast resistors and corrosion on wires...

Good luck!

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Old 09-16-2018, 06:55 PM
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If you have the original electronic ignition module, it could have died. Mine did and I replaced it along with an upgraded coil. Mike suggested kill switch-mine died and I bypassed it or as you suspect anything else related to spark during ignition. Good luck! Hopefully a quick/simple fix.
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Old 09-16-2018, 09:16 PM
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I'm basically an engine noob, so bear with me. Some random comments:

It's not the kill switch (I don't have one).

What fuse, if blown, would cause the engine to just quit?

I have an electronic ignition so I don't believe it has a ballast resistor. As I mentioned, the coil is new.

I just measured 10V at the coil with the ignition turned on; is this about right?

I'll pull one of the plugs and check for spark tomorrow.
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Old 09-16-2018, 09:26 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss Rita View Post
I'm basically an engine noob, so bear with me. Some random comments:

It's not the kill switch (I don't have one).

What fuse, if blown, would cause the engine to just quit?

I have an electronic ignition so I don't believe it has a ballast resistor. As I mentioned, the coil is new.

I just measured 10V at the coil with the ignition turned on; is this about right?

I'll pull one of the plugs and check for spark tomorrow.
There is a circuit breaker at the rear of the engine. Push the red reset button.

The EI module could have gone south. I replaced the OEM EI in a 93 (still running) and that brought it back to life when starting (much better).

I would expect a little hotter coil reading but I have seen worse. New ones can go bad as well or the connections can be corroded.

There are a lot of things that can be the culprit. Patience.

Once you verify spark (or none) you'll have a benchmark to go by.

You say you do not have a kill switch. Do you not have one installed or is it bypassed with wiring? Or both? Depending on where the bypass was initiated (if so), you can have the bypass at the dash and have a neutral safety switch go bad. At the transmission, jump those two wires together to complete the neutral safety circuit (if applicable). If you are getting any response with the ignition switch at start/run...the neutral safety circuit is OK. When it goes bad, nothing happens as for the engine getting power to start/crank....

.
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Old 09-16-2018, 10:20 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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What test tools do you have?
Test light
Voltmeter
Timing light
Dwell meter
Oscilloscope

Alot of this has to do with very basic tests. A timing light can skip right past a bunch of other tests. Otherwise a test light can get you close just looning for where rhe voltage is or isnt.
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Old 09-16-2018, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
There is a circuit breaker at the rear of the engine. Push the red reset button. I tried that

The EI module could have gone south. I replaced the OEM EI in a 93 (still running) and that brought it back to life when starting (much better).

I would expect a little hotter coil reading but I have seen worse. New ones can go bad as well or the connections can be corroded. This is a new Flame Thrower coil, no corrosion present. I got the 10V reading from the terminal with the purple wires attached.

There are a lot of things that can be the culprit. Patience.

Once you verify spark (or none) you'll have a benchmark to go by.You say you do not have a kill switch. Do you not have one installed or is it bypassed with wiring? A couple of months ago I detached the wires from the kill switch and connected them with a crimp fitting Depending on where the bypass was initiated (if so), you can have the bypass at the dash and have a neutral safety switch go bad Where would l look for the neutral safety switch? I imagine that would be within the shift lever housing.. At the transmission, jump those two wires together to complete the neutral safety circuit (if applicable). If you are getting any response with the ignition switch at start/run...the neutral safety circuit is OK. When it goes bad, nothing happens as for the engine getting power to start/crank.... The engine cranks and turns over just fine, but doesn't start
Quote:
What test tools do you have?
Test light got one
Voltmeter got one
Timing light can borrow one
Dwell meter nope, but have electronic ignition
Oscilloscope I don't know what one is, or what to do with it LOL!

Alot of this has to do with very basic tests. A timing light can skip right past a bunch of other tests. Otherwise a test light can get you close just looking for where the voltage is or isnt.
A timing light won't be of much value unless the engine is running, right?
A possible helpful hint: we were just idling along, in gear, for about ten minutes, then decided to go to the other side of the lake. The instant I moved the throttle forward the engine died. Does this point to something within the shift lever mechanism or neutral safety switch?

Last edited by Miss Rita; 09-16-2018 at 11:57 PM.
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miss Rita View Post
A possible helpful hint: we were just idling along, in gear, for about ten minutes, then decided to go to the other side of the lake. The instant I moved the throttle forward the engine died. Does this point to something within the shift lever mechanism or neutral safety switch?
I had the exact same thing happen to me on my first night cruise last year. In my case, it was a carb flooding condition. Had idled about 10 minutes, parked for 30. Started up and idled in gear for about 5 minutes and then decided to give it a little more throttle and it died. I dropped anchor and fiddled with it for about an hour (in the dark, with flashlight). Gas was dripping into the carb when the boat was off, so I figured it was flooded. Finally called a buddy to come tow me, as he was approaching the boat, it fired up. I kept it revved up between nudges of the throttle and got it back. The front bowl float was stuck and/or came out of adjustment (rough water perhaps?).

Have you tried a shot of starting fluid?
Certainly check for spark as well. I've used an inline spark detector, easier than removing a plug and finding a ground. https://www.harborfreight.com/in-lin...ker-63590.html
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Old 09-17-2018, 12:20 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Always start with the basics. You said there is fuel present. Sounds like no spark, but you need to confirm this. Any assumptions during troubleshooting are likely to cause you to pull more hair out of your head than necessary. Get a spark tester (basically a spark plug with a spring clip on it) o use a screwdriver inserted into the end of a spark plug wire removed from a spark plug. Hold the shaft of the screwdriver close to a good ground and crank the engine. If spark is present, you should see it.

If you have the Ignitor electronic ignition, you probably have the ballast resistor still connected unless you have the Flamethrower coil with the resistor built in.

You should have battery voltage to the coil, or ballast resistor if used with the key on/engine off, and while cranking or running.

Pertronix ignitions have internal circuit protection which won't allow spark below a certain voltage (I think 10.5 volts). You can disconnect the power wire to the coil and temporarily use a jumper wire direct from the battery.

You can also go to the Pertronix website and look at their troubleshooting procedures.
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