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  #11  
Old 05-31-2018, 03:40 PM
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197 TT 197 TT is offline
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I have a 4500lb craftlander for my 4300lb X2, just snapped my second cable, was planning to upgrade to the 6,000lb version - maybe that is a costly moot point?
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  #12  
Old 05-31-2018, 03:53 PM
slalomjunkie slalomjunkie is offline
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Originally Posted by 197 TT View Post
I have a 4500lb craftlander for my 4300lb X2, just snapped my second cable, was planning to upgrade to the 6,000lb version - maybe that is a costly moot point?
I may be missing the point here but i do not think the thicker cable is going to fix the issue. Preventing the cable from rubbing is going to fix the issue.
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  #13  
Old 05-31-2018, 04:39 PM
04 Star Rider 04 Star Rider is offline
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The failure point tends to be right below the winch box when the boat is starting to come out of the water. When I say "the cables rub", I I mean that they are stacking in the winch box and sometimes slipping off to the side of the previously wound cable when they finally seat on the drum. the pulleys squeak (but are turning) while raising and lowering so I want to lubricate those as to avoid any resistance on the lift. And it's simply annoying to listen to.
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  #14  
Old 05-31-2018, 05:36 PM
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I meant going from a 4,500 lb lift to a new 6,000 lift
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  #15  
Old 05-31-2018, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 04 Star Rider View Post
The failure point tends to be right below the winch box when the boat is starting to come out of the water. When I say "the cables rub", I I mean that they are stacking in the winch box and sometimes slipping off to the side of the previously wound cable when they finally seat on the drum. the pulleys squeak (but are turning) while raising and lowering so I want to lubricate those as to avoid any resistance on the lift. And it's simply annoying to listen to.
Got it....agree. Un-nerving sound
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  #16  
Old 06-01-2018, 10:33 AM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 197 TT View Post
I meant going from a 4,500 lb lift to a new 6,000 lift
If you want to avoid cable failures I'd recommend going to a harbor master elite lift - not that they won't eventually wear a cable, but the cable tension is so much lower than on verticals that they have a lot less flattening/wearing.
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  #17  
Old 06-02-2018, 07:44 AM
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ShoreStations are notorious for this as well. I was told to basically use a half can of white lithium spray grease on the cable on the winch drum every year. Seems to help quite a bit but I still get those unnerving sounds as the cable winds on the drum going up under load.
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  #18  
Old 06-04-2018, 02:24 PM
88 PS190 88 PS190 is offline
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bturner2 - its a flawed design in my opinion, cables that are stacked like that shouldn't have that much tension on them - but a vertical lift usually carries about half the weight of the boat in tension on the cable at all times.

The design worked on older cantilever styles where the half tension in the cable still only lifted the angular component of the arm and as they came up they'd pass center and the weight would come off the lift cable and onto the frame so they didn't tend to snap over night!
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  #19  
Old 06-08-2018, 12:42 AM
j2nh j2nh is offline
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I suspect that inside the tube the cables are crossed. As long as you are within weight limits there is no way you should be going thru cables that quickly.

The synthetic rope, also known as Amsteel Blue, is amazing stuff. It floats, is UV resistant, is made for repeated water exposure and is amazingly strong. It has replaced cables in many marine applications. Not sure about abrasion resistance. I would talk to the manufacturer and get a cable diagram and explain your issue. Again, no way you should be going thru cables that fast.
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