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  #21  
Old 09-26-2005, 10:22 AM
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tfharrison tfharrison is offline
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Boat: 1990 Tristar 220, 351ci, 250hp, velvet drive 1to1
Location: Land O' Lakes, Fl
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I'm bring up this old thread because this is now my problem too.
It happened Saturday out on the lake when I shut it off to allow my boy to get back in.

When I restarted, the starter stayed on and, because the engine was hot, it was firing without spark. Scared the He// out of us. The starter burned up right there.

Worst of all I had to get towed back to the house by a 'bu.

I had replaced the battery (550CCA) and the solenoid earlier in the week, because they were the only parts that had 3 seasons on them. This was a preventative measure.

I immediately came in the house and went to Team Talk, found this thread, and proceeded to begin the repairs.

We took the battery and solenoid back to Advan?? Auto Parts. After a 51 minute deep cycle charging test, it was determined that our new battery was only putting out 360 amps. Ok, I read about the low voltage, this must be it. I got a new 1000CA (750CCA) marine battery, tested it, and took it along with a new solenoid back to the boat.

When we put them in, we found that the starter was fried, (we thought maybe the circuit breaker had popped, no such luck).

We went back to AAP and they GAVE ME @ no charge, their best starter. I'm still concerned as to what the exact differences are between auto and marine starters.

We put it in and tried it. Varoom, let go boating. We shut it back off and got the queen and all the princes in suits, got on the boat, and when I started it...IT STUCK AGAIN...We quickly unhooked the batttery.

This time Alex, my fixer boy, and I followed every wire. I unhooked the wire down at the starter, hooked up battery, and we had voltage going to the starter wire. There was no voltage going to the switch "S" terminal, so we eliminated the switch from the problem. I had disconnected the orange ignition "I" wire earlier, following the threads suggestion. That was not it.

We had a new super zapper battery, so that wasn't it.

When we tapped the solenoid, the voltage stopped going to the starter wire.

It was the solenoid, again.

When we went back to AAP, a different guy looked at the part and said, "man, you got the relay for the 302, you need the 351 marine application."

The one he gave me looked different. It actually looked like the one off my '85 F-150 with the 351 in it. We took it home, put it on, and had no problem the rest of the day.

Now, I'm not ready to declare this problem resolved, it doesn't make sense that solenoids would be that specific to the starter voltage draw, and I don't know that there is a big difference in voltage from one starter to another.

I do know that the orange "I" wire is solely for the cold starting voltage and to bypass the ballast resister at start-up. The starter get all the available amperage it wants, that orange wire will only get what's left. I put it back on.

I now know that all solenoids are not equal, so get the best one, and for 12 bucks, I bought two.

Most important was the scary realization that the starter could run on and freak everybody out. I'm putting an emergency battery disconnect switch in the boat and that will be the last thing turned off at the dock. That should also eliminate the blower left on problem.

If anyone knows different, please speak up. I hate those nagging doubts about a fix that needs to stay fixed.
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  #22  
Old 09-26-2005, 09:17 PM
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tfharrison tfharrison is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Boat: 1990 Tristar 220, 351ci, 250hp, velvet drive 1to1
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I got the low down from my MC dealer on this problem.
1. Older models had red and black battery wires that we a little light gauged. These wires must have clean connection points, which is part of their annual service.
Too much resistance and there goes the solenoid.
2. The starter is another of the parts that should be marinized. Auto starters are not acceptable as they lack the required seal and anti-arch features.
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