Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Trailers

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-29-2005, 03:53 PM
jsonova99's Avatar
jsonova99 jsonova99 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 1991 Mastercraft Prostar 190
Location: Eastern Shore of Virginia
Posts: 1,055
Restoring trailer

I ordered my new EZ loader trailer, but I have decided to restore the original. I want to strip the whole thing down to bare metal to get all of the old paint and especially rust off of it. It would be easier and cheaper for me to use a grinder because I can do that at home, but I'm wondering if that will be too harsh. I kind of figured that sandblasting is probably better and less destructive. Any thoughts?
__________________
1991 Prostar 190 - Ambush 4 blade prop
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-29-2005, 04:01 PM
east tx skier's Avatar
east tx skier east tx skier is offline
MC Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 1998 Ski Nautique
Location: End of my rope.
Posts: 26,185
I used a grinder on the rusty parts of my trailer before spot-priming and painting. I've had no ill effects a year later, but am admittedly no expert on the subject. I suppose it would depend, to a certain extent, how much rust you have and how much money you want to spend on it.
__________________
Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Ski Nautique, PCM GT40, 310 hp, , Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG/Zbox.

FAQ


Be kind. Have fun.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-29-2005, 04:02 PM
BriEOD's Avatar
BriEOD BriEOD is offline
MC Platinum
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 2000 MasterCraft ProStar 205 DD
Location: Severn River, MD
Posts: 9,089
Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier
I used a grinder on the rusty parts of my trailer before spot-priming and painting. I've had no ill effects a year later, but am admittedly no expert on the subject. I suppose it would depend, to a certain extent, how much rust you have and how much money you want to spend on it.
Same action here and same result.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-29-2005, 04:04 PM
jsonova99's Avatar
jsonova99 jsonova99 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 1991 Mastercraft Prostar 190
Location: Eastern Shore of Virginia
Posts: 1,055
I don't want to spend anything on it. My plan is to do all of the work myself which is why I was planning on the grinder. When I'm all done I may have some reinforcement pieces welded in to a few high stress spots or where the rust was pretty bad. Basically under the bunks and the point in the trailer where it starts to bend towards the front.
__________________
1991 Prostar 190 - Ambush 4 blade prop
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-29-2005, 04:10 PM
jsonova99's Avatar
jsonova99 jsonova99 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 1991 Mastercraft Prostar 190
Location: Eastern Shore of Virginia
Posts: 1,055
To build on my own thread here, what is the best way to handle the fiberglass sides of the trailer? Mine don't have any damage, but they are extremely faded I was just thinking of painting them, but I don't know how that will turn out
__________________
1991 Prostar 190 - Ambush 4 blade prop
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-29-2005, 04:10 PM
Ric's Avatar
Ric Ric is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: 2005 Prostar 197 / MCX
Location: _______Wastebasket_________________________
Posts: 13,220
Quote:
Originally Posted by BriEOD
Same action here and same result.
I've done both
The very best way is sandblasting but you will remove everything from the trailer and spend some extra money doing it this way

grinding off the rust is easy and cheap and can look just fine (If you're smooth about it)

I've written this before but everyone needs to watch their trailer closely as it ages! Signs of rust may be signals of much deeper problems.
I had a rusted trailer, tore it down, took it to sandblast. During blasting, he found that the trailer was hanging on by a thread . We had to do extensive welding of braces and gussets to get the thing roadworthy and THEN back to blast and prime and paint. (this whole time, my boat is floating in a nearby public lake )

When you're ready to repair it. Jab the rusty areas pretty good with a punch or a screwdriver and see how bad they are. If they are thru-holes, you should look into grinding ALL the rotted area away and beefing it up with new braces prior to repaint.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by TX.X-30 fan
Say yes to cheap beer---- no to ethanol.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-29-2005, 04:12 PM
jsonova99's Avatar
jsonova99 jsonova99 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 1991 Mastercraft Prostar 190
Location: Eastern Shore of Virginia
Posts: 1,055
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric
I've done both
The very best way is sandblasting but you will remove everything from the trailer and spend some extra money doing it this way

grinding off the rust is easy and cheap and can look just fine (If you're smooth about it)

I've written this before but everyone needs to watch their trailer closely as it ages! Signs of rust may be signals of much deeper problems.
I had a rusted trailer, tore it down, took it to sandblast. During blasting, he found that the trailer was hanging on by a thread . We had to do extensive welding of braces and gussets to get the thing roadworthy and THEN back to blast and prime and paint. (this whole time, my boat is floating in a nearby public lake )


When you're ready to repair it. Jab the rusty areas pretty good with a punch or a screwdriver and see how bad they are. If they are thru-holes, you should look into grinding ALL the rotted area away and beefing it up with new braces prior to repaint.

This is my plan, since I have the new trailer coming, I'm under no time limit so I want to take the whole thing down to bare metal and then prime and paint. I've already targeted the bad spots that will need reinforcement.
__________________
1991 Prostar 190 - Ambush 4 blade prop
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-29-2005, 04:21 PM
east tx skier's Avatar
east tx skier east tx skier is offline
MC Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 1998 Ski Nautique
Location: End of my rope.
Posts: 26,185
I had some new angle irons welded on to mirror the old ones. The worst rust was on the underside of the old angle irons, but after I ground it down, there was plenty with which to work. Now, instead of an L support, I have a T. I also had the old prop guard cut out and replaced with a solid piece of steel. Now, when my prop guard hits something, I worry about what I hit instead of the prop guard.

Spray paint from the hardware store (over primer) was a close enough match for me. You'd have to get pretty close to see where I touched things up.

Do the brakes work?
__________________
Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Ski Nautique, PCM GT40, 310 hp, , Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG/Zbox.

FAQ


Be kind. Have fun.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-29-2005, 04:24 PM
jsonova99's Avatar
jsonova99 jsonova99 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 1991 Mastercraft Prostar 190
Location: Eastern Shore of Virginia
Posts: 1,055
Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier
I had some new angle irons welded on to mirror the old ones. The worst rust was on the underside of the old angle irons, but after I ground it down, there was plenty with which to work. Now, instead of an L support, I have a T. I also had the old prop guard cut out and replaced with a solid piece of steel. Now, when my prop guard hits something, I worry about what I hit instead of the prop guard.

Spray paint from the hardware store (over primer) was a close enough match for me. You'd have to get pretty close to see where I touched things up.

Do the brakes work?

no brakes on mine. The spraying that you are talking about is on the metal, right? Do you have any pictures of the brackets you welded in? I'd be curious to see.
__________________
1991 Prostar 190 - Ambush 4 blade prop
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-29-2005, 04:30 PM
east tx skier's Avatar
east tx skier east tx skier is offline
MC Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 1998 Ski Nautique
Location: End of my rope.
Posts: 26,185
The spraying is on the metal. I don't have pictures of the brackets handy, but they are just angle irons that are the same deminsions as what's on there now. They abut the originals and are welded to them. Currently, I don't have holes in them or carriage bolts going through them (the new ones), but I could someday if need be.
__________________
Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Ski Nautique, PCM GT40, 310 hp, , Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG/Zbox.

FAQ


Be kind. Have fun.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:07 AM.


2018