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  #401  
Old 07-31-2017, 05:51 PM
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The purple goes to the run post on the ignition. When it is on run, the relay fails closed and both batteries get a charge. When the ignition switch goes to off or accessory, it fails open, only components drawing from the accessory battery from what you have wired to it (should be most everything), leaving your start battery isolated and fully charged.
For anyone following along, an AUTO Combining Relay like the Bluesea 7610 ACR, does this automatically, without the need of a 12V trigger from the ignition switch RUN terminal. Keep it simple.

Im hoping that purple is connected to the CRANK terminal so to engage the starter-isolation mode.
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  #402  
Old 08-01-2017, 03:38 PM
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DisguisedRope DisguisedRope is offline
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Originally Posted by hairman2112 View Post
What is the golf tee for?
Every time he posts that picture someone asks that question. I've yet to see an answer though haha.
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  #403  
Old 08-01-2017, 03:58 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Originally Posted by DisguisedRope View Post
Every time he posts that picture someone asks that question. I've yet to see an answer though haha.
Reading is a wonderful thing....haha

==> Tee <==
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  #404  
Old 08-01-2017, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
Reading is a wonderful thing....haha

==> Tee <==
Sorry, missed that one.
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  #405  
Old 08-01-2017, 04:26 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Originally Posted by DisguisedRope View Post
Sorry, missed that one.
It's all good..

There you have it....
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  #406  
Old 08-01-2017, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jamis0n View Post
Having each positive battery terminal fused seems like a no brainer to me and definitely will help me sleep at night without having boat on fire nightmares
By having that large of a fuse at the battery positive terminal, the only thing your really protecting the wire from is a dead short.....which is highly unlikely. Remember....downstream, each accessory is fused so if there's a fault with that accessory, that fuse blows and the accessory is isolated (without losing the entire electrical system).

If your trying to protect the entire system from drawing too many amps during normal operation:
If you have too many accessories on the system and draw more amps than the alternator can supply, the alternator just won't be able to keep the battery charged and system voltage could drop. (still no fire though).

If you have a fault in the alternator causing it to supply too much current, it will blow the fuse (or fuse link) on the alternator output wire thereby isolating the alternator. (assuming it has a fuse).

If your trying to protect the starter wire during starting, that's different. I would look at the starter wire size and length and make sure it has enough amp capacity. If it doesn't, replace it with one that does. Don't rely on the fuse to protect the wire.

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Last edited by TyTanium; 08-03-2017 at 12:29 AM.
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amp, ballast, batteries, stereo, system

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